Root79

here is our core for future FI setup:





Engine:
B18B1 block 1993y.
B20Z P75 head 2000y.
B20Z crankshaft (B18B1 crankshaft dead after oil pump failure)
B18C6 new water/oil pumps
New OEM bearings
Darton sleeves

This is what we have now. Collecting money for other parts.
Our target power 300whp.

Looking for best turbo choice. What could you recommend. We thinking about Holset HX35s.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

nice base, why sleeved for only 300whp???? I even regret sleeving and i want to make 600whp. so many people using stock sleeves putting up HUGE numbers.

Anyhow as far as a turbo i dont knwo much about the holsets other then i have one on my Dodge Cummins LOL. I know turbonetics and Garrett and Precision. If your looking for great spooling spend the money on a garrett GTR. if your looking for good spooling then a mid a/r on a t3 with t4 compressor will suit your needs and then some. All really depends on your money situation and if you plan on making bigger power in the future.

Post exactly what your goal is for people to best help you suit your turbo questions.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Yes you will meet your goals with that turbo, but the thing is this, everyone says they only want such and such a power but when you feel the boost and potential your going to do what we all have done and step up to bigger and badder setups.

Your going to push that GT28RS to its limit pretty quick. as opposed to a GT30 or the larger GT28 will have some room to grow. **** i had my turbo on my car for 50 miles and took it off because once i felt 450hp i wanted more. Stepping it up is the enevitable LOLOL. Ask just about anyone on here. JDMSleeper even went further with a vtec head and is now doing a 62-1. Hes going to make some real big power and all because its an addiction just like we all got bit by the turbo bug hahaha

Touge Tuning

The GT28RS is a good choice if you want a really fat powerband and are looking at doing road racing etc. If you look at this thread from boosted-hybrid you will see that going from a GT3071 to a GT28RS with the atp turbo "drop-in" .82a/r CHRA t3 housing for external WG setup they gained power throughout almost the entire powerband and had almost the same peak power. here's the thread http://forums.evans-tuning.com...t28rs . Even Jeff Evans himself said that the GT2871 would have a later spool and provide more peak power around 8200-8500 which most of our LS-T's would never use.

Chris Benoit

Thanks for the link man. That;s exactly want I want, i don't roadrace but I'd love to have that powerband. I don't want peak power I just want to have a big midrange.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Yeah that is a nice dyno. Now its all going to depend on your setup, how yoru controlling the turbo and wastegate etc. Internally WG is diff. from external. That gt3071 spooling that slow is because it was internal and nothign but the actuator controlling it im sure. What people tend to forget is with a boost controller yu set gate opening pressure and you have so much more WG control. For instance my T04E i was running just on WG spring it spooled 21 psi by like 6600rpm which is a turd for spooling. Now once i got the boost controller all set up im not hitting 21 psi by 4800 rpm. so yes the turbo size matter to en extent, but remember controlling it is another thing to look into. good luck with your search. and do some more research and get opinions from several people. we all have different views and see what you think its best best befor eyou choose. Good luck man

Outkast95LS

iTrader: (1)

Is there any particular way i should have my feed line facing? For instance, should i have the fitting facing towards the motor or towards the radiator? Also, how did u guys route the feed line? Through the transmission side, or timing belt side?
Pics for reference...

Root79

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice base, why sleeved for only 300whp???? I even regret sleeving and i want to make 600whp. so many people using stock sleeves putting up HUGE numbers.

Anyhow as far as a turbo i dont knwo much about the holsets other then i have one on my Dodge Cummins LOL. I know turbonetics and Garrett and Precision. If your looking for great spooling spend the money on a garrett GTR. if your looking for good spooling then a mid a/r on a t3 with t4 compressor will suit your needs and then some. All really depends on your money situation and if you plan on making bigger power in the future.

Post exactly what your goal is for people to best help you suit your turbo questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, we must to sleeve the block, because it have too big clearence. Block is old and have problems with oiling before. I don't have such knowledge's for now go higher as our target power. 300whp will great for us in the beginning.

Could you recomend just oversize pistons +0.5? The block cylinder walls just 10mm thin. OEM iron sleeve about 2.5 mm. Dosn't look good....

TSR-DA9

im pieceing together my turbo Ls build so far i got

-dsm 450cc
-tial bov
-precision 350hp ic

oredering soon

-tial 38mm wg
-walbro 255hp
-ram horn mani
-lm-1
-eprom emulater
-with 2.5 inch charge pipe/downpipe
-b and m fpr

for the turbo i see a lot of ppl runnin the t3/t4's but i was thinking about the gt series
this is what i was thinking about running

-T3/T4E 57 trim .63

i want a decent mid range with lots of power looking to make around 240whp with a lil room to spare what u guys think of this turbo and the other parts im gonna order




Modified by TSR-DA9 at 3:57 PM 1/25/2006

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outkast95LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any particular way i should have my feed line facing? For instance, should i have the fitting facing towards the motor or towards the radiator? Also, how did u guys route the feed line? Through the transmission side, or timing belt side?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can have it any way you want it. Just make sure its routed away from direct heat (open exhaust or touching the manifold) also watch out for electronics (starter and Altinator). Another thing to watch out for is your timin belt and Alt. belt It doesnt really matter how you run the feel because its pressurized.

The return is the only thing you have to be picky about

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Ask just about anyone on here. JDMSleeper even went further with a vtec head and is now doing a 62-1. Hes going to make some real big power and all because its an addiction just like we all got bit by the turbo bug hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... dude, this stuff is like crack. everyone warns you not to get wrapped up into cars... you do. THen you little by little up the dose of power... It never ends

Samuels

I GOT MY TURBO AND STAINLESS INLINE MAINFOLD TODAY THOSE GUYS ARE GREAT.. I got a brand spanking new SC-34 and a used stainless manifold with a lifetime warranty. They basically gave me a stainless inline pro DP and a new pipe coming off of my IC for free. The fixed my wastegate and my FPR they went above and beyond. The guy quoted me at 1200 and stuck to hit he gave me the reciept and i basically got 5 hours of labor at 75 per hr for free..They were'nt even suppose to give me the DP but they did'nt like how my 3inch pipe looked so they thru it in. They also gave me a tranny mount i was missing for 10 bucks..

Big props to inline pro for going above and beyond.. The guy told me thats the 1st time in the history of inline pro they've done that.. It looks 5,000 times better the dp is even chrome it looks sick. The only thing is the turbo facing the radiater now and i need a slim fan to put a filter on..

Does anyone know the exact specs on that SC34??

Samuels

They also thru on a braided oil return because the clown used a rubber hose and had it kinked and basically gave me all new fittings for the turbo..

JDMs1eeper

InlinePRO is awesome. They treat everyone awesome and are willing to do anything to satisfy the customer.

I'll always continue shopping there

Did they give you a tour around the shop?

Hmmm... I need to make another trip up there soon for that twin disk

JDMs1eeper

INFO OFF A SITE

Sport Compact T3/T4 SC34 .48 A/R, 69 Trim

Manufacturer:
Part No: SC34-1
Our Price: $895.00


SC34 T3/T4 (.48 A/R Compressor/69 Wheel Trim Turbine)
Compressor: Wheel Inducer: 2.230" Wheel Exducer: 2.950" Wheel Trim: 57 Inlet Size: 3" Outlet Size: 2" A/R: .48
Turbine: Wheel Style: T31 Wheel Inducer: 2.559" Wheel Exducer: 2.121" Wheel Trim: 69
Max HP: 545


---------------

ANOTHER SITE
Precision's line of T3/T4 turbos for Sport Compact vehicles comes standard with Precision's TA31 style exhaust housings with a 5-bolt discharge side in A/R's of .48 or .63.

SC34 comes with a T31 wheel with either a 2.559" inducer and 2.229" exducer (76 trim) or 2.559" inducer and 2.121" exducer (69 trim) Available with or without internal wastegate. SC34 uses a 56mm compressor wheel with a 2.230" inducer and 2.950" exducer (57 trim). Each turbo comes with a 360-degree race bearing center section and a T04E compressor cover with a 3-inch inlet and 2-inch outlet.

Larger T04S cover with 4-inch inlet and 2.5-inch outlet available at an extra charge.

Supports up to 545-hp at the flywheel with proper tuning.


Part Number: SC-34
Max Rated HP: 545
Inlet/Outlet Size: 3"/2"
Bearing System: 360 Race
A/R Ratio: .48 or .63
Garrett Compressor Wheel Trim: 57
Garrett Turbine Wheel Trim: 69 or 76

Garrett Compressor Wheel Specs:
Wheel Trim: 57
Wheel Diameter: 56mm
Wheel Inducer: 2.230"
Wheel Exducer: 2.950"

Garrett Turbine Wheel Specs:
Wheel Trim: 69
Wheel Style: T31
Wheel Inducer: 2.559"
Wheel Exducer: 2.121"

Wheel Trim: 76
Wheel Style: T31
Wheel Inducer: 2.559"
Wheel Exducer: 2.229"

Samuels

He told me it was a 57 trim and I believe a 48 AR NOT SURE OF THE SPECS..It was alot cheaper then that price though..

Samuels

I paid 630 for the turbo my estimate sheet would have been over 1700 he did it all for 1200..A great guy..

Samuels

he said it was slightly smaller then my garrett t3-t4 60 ar with 56intake 60 exhaust. If anybody wants a big turbo 150 it needs a rebuild i got qouted at 275 with return shipping. I will include the drag manifold for 150 if you buy them together..I'm selling the drag manifold for 200 shipped..

FriedChicken101

Okay so here's the deal, I've read this thread front and back but I still need some help. I'm going to list all the parts I have so far and also what my goals and aspirations are. I'm leaning towards the GT28 but I'm veryn open to suggestions. I'm looking to hear where I should go next especially with the turbo sizing and any other comments you guys have...

Goals & Aspirations: I love to drive. I want a fun car with a lot of torque. Eventually I want to do some autocrossing but for the time being this will be my street car..

98 B18b w/:
Stock crank w/.2 undersized
Wiseco 9.5:1 (Low CR)
Eagle Billet Rods
King OS Bearings
Bored/honed/cleaned balanced rot. assembly
ARP Head Studs

Tranny: 90 LS w/
Exedy pressure plate
ACT lt. flywheel (12lb)
Exedy clutch

95 LS head w:/
stainless steel ex. valves
maybe some cams (suggestions?)
valve adj.

AEM Fuel Rail & FPR
Eclipse 450 Inj. (cleaned & ready to be retrofitted)
Eclipse BOV
Brand X short RAM intake (just something to connect to int. cooler piping)

None of this stuff is in my car right now (block is still @ machine shop) it's just sitting in my living room pissing off my girlfriend. I plan to get it all in by Feb./March which leads me to my next Question...
should I break the motor in before I put the turbo in? does it matter?
Finally: what am I missing from this setup given my aspirations?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Well as far as breaking the motor in, well there are age old arguments to that question but like i alwasy say break it in how you want it to run. And its always worked for me. For example a few years ago i had got a Specv junk sentra and my buddy had one. He babied it at first while i beat the living crap out of mine. Mine ran strong his ran like a piece of crap and always was in the shop. Case in point boost it while breaking it in. I broke mine in on the dyno boosting 22 psi

If your keeping stock revs then i would suggest either the crower 402t cams or the comp turbo cams. I run the crowers but i hear the Comps have a better idle and vacuum at part throttle. No that being said i run the crowers and have no idle problems at all and PLENTY of vacuum with part throttle driving. Its all in the machine work i think anyhow.

The GT28 will be a good midrange power torque turbo. Now like i posted earlier keep in mind and see that JDMSleer replied to me that turbos and cars are like heroin man, once you do it your hooked and spend more and more money every time you buy something and it only gets worse HAHAHAHA. your be happy with 300whp at the track for about 2 or 3 times you go. then you will be pissed you didnt get the bigger turbo to have 450whp. I see it ALLLLLLL the time. On that note again ill recomend like i did in the past a GT30R and the use of a good boost controller will give you almost identicle spooling of the GT28 and more HP potential. The larger GT30/40R will be able to produce upwards of 600whp.

You have a good base though and are on the right track so stick with it. Those injectors will only last you for a few hundred hp so think about upgrading those in the future and definatly get your self a Walbro intank 255 fuel pump and when you really want to make big power your going to want to rewire it with 10 awg wire direct from the battery to a relay and then 10awg to the pump. this new relay you just get a signal form the stock fuel pump relay. Thats the secret to getting big power out of such a small pump.

Get many opinions before making your choice. We all have different views, thats just mine. Good Luck

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Post Pics Homie

Samuels

i don't know how to post pics on the site I just send them thru the emails..

They did above and beyond what was called for just because he gave me a quote before getting into the job and stuck to it because he knew my budget was limited..

It looks night and day difference it looks sweet and looked like a rigged up nasty setup before..He did tell me my blowoff valve was stuck or something. Its a turbo xfl34 or something another he told me to take it apart and try to clean it it feels like something is stuck open in the horn hole..

My dumb mechanic never tightened up my wastegate like he said. He hooked up the missing link on the TB and had my return line kinked..

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">InlinePRO is awesome. They treat everyone awesome and are willing to do anything to satisfy the customer.

I'll always continue shopping there

Did they give you a tour around the shop?

Hmmm... I need to make another trip up there soon for that twin disk </TD></TR></TABLE>
just don't ask them to put your injectors in one of their fuel rails

nonvtecallmotor

I just got back from dynoing my STOCK LS motored turbo HB.

Motor has 120k+ Only thing thats done is a 70mm t-body the rest is stock.

t3 60-1 .63ar ex.

At 16psi on pump gas I made 306hp / 280tq

InfamousDC2FI

nice

FriedChicken101

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get your self a Walbro intank 255 fuel pump and when you really want to make big power your going to want to rewire it with 10 awg wire direct from the battery to a relay and then 10awg to the pump. this new relay you just get a signal form the stock fuel pump relay. Thats the secret to getting big power out of such a small pump.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay so I know I need one of these: "Walbro intank 255 fuel pump" do you know who sells it cheapest/a good price?

Also, I don't exactly know how to rewire w/ 10awg wire.. can you explain/give link? I plan on relocating the battery to the trunk and I was about to buy the batteries would these wries be effected by this upgrade?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The GT28 will be a good midrange power torque turbo. Now like i posted earlier keep in mind and see that JDMSleer replied to me that turbos and cars are like heroin man, once you do it your hooked and spend more and more money every time you buy something and it only gets worse HAHAHAHA. your be happy with 300whp at the track for about 2 or 3 times you go. then you will be pissed you didnt get the bigger turbo to have 450whp. I see it ALLLLLLL the time. On that note again ill recomend like i did in the past a GT30R and the use of a good boost controller will give you almost identicle spooling of the GT28 and more HP potential. The larger GT30/40R will be able to produce upwards of 600whp.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know man you're killing me!!!!! I am addicted to power... I'm tempted but I'd like to hear your opinion on my plan... Once I've got this LS-Turbo motor safely running in my DA I want to get a B20 and start prepping it for LS-VTEC... you know B16 or Type-R head... should I just commit to the turbo (T3/04) on this car or should I do LS-Turbomy w/ the T28 and only push 7-8psi meanwhile working on the LS-VTEC beast??