Holset users unite!
um i have a # of a place in worcester, ma i believe they were about $75-80...the holsets snails have special super power bearings...i have it somewhere...search around ebay a couple of the seller who rebuild hx35's and convert them to dsm housing have rebuild kits...btw anyone get the hx35 rebuild manual...im considering buying it but at like $30+ im still a little hesitant in knowing someone might already own it and share some info 
good deal on ebay for a nice 3" vband clamp
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33742

good deal on ebay for a nice 3" vband clamp
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33742
if your holset came off a cummins motor(which i think most do) you can go to any cummins dealer and give them the assy number(should be on a data plate on the cool side) and they can order you a kit(i know i work at a dealership)
also i have seen rebuild kits on ebay
also that clamp thats on ebay only sells for about $24 new. i can get you the part # if you guys need it.
well to an update on my holset project
i broke my ankle friday night at my bachelor party so i wont be putting it on for a while.
plus next week ill be on my honeymoon anyway.
also i have seen rebuild kits on ebay
also that clamp thats on ebay only sells for about $24 new. i can get you the part # if you guys need it.
well to an update on my holset project
i broke my ankle friday night at my bachelor party so i wont be putting it on for a while.
plus next week ill be on my honeymoon anyway.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11,697
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From: Just Drank A 5th of VODKA Dare me to drive, Ca, u.s.
damn i can't stop looking at this thread
this is my question...for a person with a b16 (stock) which unit is the best to run hx35, hy35, hx30...etc.
and for a person that has internals only (rods and pistons) which unit the best to go with?
i have a couple b16's sitting around one with internals and i'm trying to figure out exactly which direction i want to go
and where are the best places to purchase one?
good luck to everybody that was already got there boost project into motion
this is my question...for a person with a b16 (stock) which unit is the best to run hx35, hy35, hx30...etc.
and for a person that has internals only (rods and pistons) which unit the best to go with?
i have a couple b16's sitting around one with internals and i'm trying to figure out exactly which direction i want to go
and where are the best places to purchase one?
good luck to everybody that was already got there boost project into motion
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95cxh22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your holset came off a cummins motor(which i think most do)
also that clamp thats on ebay only sells for about $24 new. i can get you the part # if you guys need it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the ebay clamp is made by 5star manufacturing...same as i ordered except i got mine from turboperformance because i liked their 3" vband flange for the dp side...it has a vband side and a grooved edge w/ a lip to squeeze the 3" dp over the edge then weld it to the lip for good penetration....only problem being that the flange on the turbo is redicilously large and the 3" vband clamp doesnt like to fit...so my solution...took a big grinding wheel and custom'd it to my 4" grinder...grinded is somewhat flat...then took a piece of wood and sandpaper to it to get it somewhat flat all around...test fitted it a few times till the clamp pulled everything nice and tight...worked like a charm...and it looks sexy too
oh and since some of your are running stock wastegated turbo...simply removing the stock wastegate assembly and making a piece of steel that holds the wastegate flapper shut works...works very well...and sure beats welding it...
also that clamp thats on ebay only sells for about $24 new. i can get you the part # if you guys need it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the ebay clamp is made by 5star manufacturing...same as i ordered except i got mine from turboperformance because i liked their 3" vband flange for the dp side...it has a vband side and a grooved edge w/ a lip to squeeze the 3" dp over the edge then weld it to the lip for good penetration....only problem being that the flange on the turbo is redicilously large and the 3" vband clamp doesnt like to fit...so my solution...took a big grinding wheel and custom'd it to my 4" grinder...grinded is somewhat flat...then took a piece of wood and sandpaper to it to get it somewhat flat all around...test fitted it a few times till the clamp pulled everything nice and tight...worked like a charm...and it looks sexy too
oh and since some of your are running stock wastegated turbo...simply removing the stock wastegate assembly and making a piece of steel that holds the wastegate flapper shut works...works very well...and sure beats welding it...
Good info guys!!
Here's another good one, is anyone here cutting the center divider out of their split housings to get a slightly bigger A/R and not have to make a divided manifold? Probably what I'll end up doing but if anyone did that and the car fell on its face, I'll reconsider
Here's another good one, is anyone here cutting the center divider out of their split housings to get a slightly bigger A/R and not have to make a divided manifold? Probably what I'll end up doing but if anyone did that and the car fell on its face, I'll reconsider
well add another holset user to the set, tried one last winter (hx35), it smoked so i ended up using a 300 zx turbo on my d-series, And now I am looking for a HX30 to rock on my d-series again, forged a6 bottom end with ported and polished y8 head with zex 59300 cam. If anyone has any HX30 holset's laying around, I'm looking for one sometime soon.
Later ... Chris
Later ... Chris
I shaved my divider down...so is said...the hx35 12cm housing is about a .53 a/r w/ the divider...and removing it yields about a .63 a/r...
what i did is keep a happy medium...i grinded down the middle to make a smooth transition to the turbo instead of exh gases running into a 1/4" wall...it really wouldn't hinder that much flow...but it definatly would make a difference...not to mention is adds a lil more room the the housing
oh ya and def had a 1st today
7psi
blew the ****** powersteering belt to pieces...and by pieces i mean absolutely nothing left!!!
what i did is keep a happy medium...i grinded down the middle to make a smooth transition to the turbo instead of exh gases running into a 1/4" wall...it really wouldn't hinder that much flow...but it definatly would make a difference...not to mention is adds a lil more room the the housing

oh ya and def had a 1st today
7psi
blew the ****** powersteering belt to pieces...and by pieces i mean absolutely nothing left!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DragSource »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep them updates coming drum - we're all poor
</TD></TR></TABLE>
theyll get better and some vids too once i get this dam 3bar figured out in uberdata...and also my discrepinces in my wbo2 values in uber...heh
</TD></TR></TABLE>theyll get better and some vids too once i get this dam 3bar figured out in uberdata...and also my discrepinces in my wbo2 values in uber...heh
Wow, my thread has really been busy! I've been kinda busy this weekend, so I haven't checked it. Good news, I just got my turbo today! Looks good, I mean, you can tell its used, but what do ya expect from a used turbo. It spins fine, and has no play in the shaft either
I've already removed the silencer ring, and also found out that I don't even need to clock it! My only problem is the turbine discharge is just under 4"!!! This is an hy35, not the hx...so if anyone knows where to get a 4" to 3" transition, i'd greatly appreciate the info! I'll try to clean it up and take some pix of it. Help me figure out how to do my downpipe guys!
I've already removed the silencer ring, and also found out that I don't even need to clock it! My only problem is the turbine discharge is just under 4"!!! This is an hy35, not the hx...so if anyone knows where to get a 4" to 3" transition, i'd greatly appreciate the info! I'll try to clean it up and take some pix of it. Help me figure out how to do my downpipe guys!
well if there are any good welders locally, just get them to make you a custom swing valve and downsize it with stainless piping, you can order them from local pipe shops, and just run a 3" downpipe. Thats whats on my adjenda. hopefully the hy-35 will make in upwards of 300+whp on my built d-series, can't wait. good luck to all.
later ... Chris
later ... Chris
ok well here is a pic of my old setup where i had a flange made up for the exhaust side, the turbo was origionally internally gated, and well to make things simple there were 2 holes on the exhaust side of the turbo, 1 was the turbine and 2 was the wastegate hole. the flange had both holes on it, the 1 hole was my downpipe and the 2 hole i made a pipe to go up to my external wastegate, and from the wastegate just had an external venting dump tube. Here is a pic, kinda tough to see but yeah ...
And if there is only 1 very large hole, well its not a big deal, just a strait downpipe off the exhaust side of the turbo and the wastegate is mounted on the manifold, heres the solutions people have used, these pics are not mine but are borrowed ...

hopefully this helps you guys out.
later ... Chris

And if there is only 1 very large hole, well its not a big deal, just a strait downpipe off the exhaust side of the turbo and the wastegate is mounted on the manifold, heres the solutions people have used, these pics are not mine but are borrowed ...


hopefully this helps you guys out.
later ... Chris
My problem is simply finding a 4" to 3" transition section, I'm probably just going to weld it directly to the turbine housing since i'm not too concerned with selling my turbo or downpipe anytime soon...and i'm trying to get this damn setup on!!!
the welds will break, remember the exhaust housing is cast, and cash is very difficult to weld to, get a mild steel flange made up for like $10.00 and weld onto the mild steel. DONT WELD ON TURBO!!!
Well, its sounding like i'm going to have to get a 4" vband "adapter" and then also get the 4" to 3" transition piece... Expenses expenses
it'll be worth it in the end though
it'll be worth it in the end though
personally i wouldnt bother w/ the 4" i had a hard enough time find a 3" vabdn setup w/ a nice adapter for the dp side...and even that was costly...im running a eq length and w/ a dumptube and dp it got kinda tight...ill try an take some omore pics of it later tonight
I have no option other than 4" right off the turbine, the turbine exit is 3.75" and the vband "lip" is just under 4", this thing is huge. I just need a 4" to 3" piece so I can run a 3" downpipe, I don't want a 4" but I have to start it at 4" because thats what comes off the turbine... Does everybody understand that? I'll go take some pix
Pix are up!


Modified by soon2brb240 at 11:38 AM 5/10/2005
Pix are up!


Modified by soon2brb240 at 11:38 AM 5/10/2005
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11,697
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From: Just Drank A 5th of VODKA Dare me to drive, Ca, u.s.
for those of you with the external gated hx35's are you changes the exhaust housing or is there a specific one to get (new/used)?
I can look up the part number for mine at home but it came stock with the 12cm divided non W housing on it. It's for a Cummins application but isn't the normal Dodge Ram part number. Identical except for the exh housing though!
wow that sucks...have fun gettin bent for the 4" vband junk...but that thing is large!!!
and for people tryin to get the non wastegated housing...its more $...youd be able to find a used one of ebay or turbo diesel forums and make it externally wg'd for much cheaper...i found the housing searchin around for about $155 if my memory serves me correct
and for people tryin to get the non wastegated housing...its more $...youd be able to find a used one of ebay or turbo diesel forums and make it externally wg'd for much cheaper...i found the housing searchin around for about $155 if my memory serves me correct
yea, i'm have decided to go with a 4" section and transition it to 3" after the initial bend off of the turbine housing. It's more expensive than I though, i just spent $110 on a 3" to 4" transition, 4" vband clamp, and 4" vband weld on adapter, i'll let everyone know how it goes though!
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
ok, i think its time to give away my secret holset link.
http://www.htturbo.com/dodge.htm
they offer upgrades, compressor housings, comp. wheels, exhaust housings etc all at good prices
http://www.htturbo.com/dodge.htm
they offer upgrades, compressor housings, comp. wheels, exhaust housings etc all at good prices


