TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I need to build a motor to run 11's and I need some help. First its going into a 91 crx si. Minor weight reduction (maybe 60lbs). I am deciding on which motor i should use and if my goal is even accomplishable. should i go with a

b18a, ls tranny, T3/T4 57trim .63ar exhaust running 10lbs of boost or a
b16a, b16 tranny, t3/t4 not sure on trim but with 8lbs of boost

for more minor details both will be intercooled, log manifolds, external wastegates, rc550cc injectors, converted to obd1 and tuned with hondata, uberdata, neptune, chrome, turboedit or something not sure yet.

what do you think? would this even be good for 12's??? Im looking to build a fast car and i have a clean slate to work with. im trying to build the fastest car i can on the most near stock engine block and head.

Thanks

Ls1 FD3s

shoulda bought my old setup.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1295663

BlueShadow

lsvtec with a b16a head and b18a or maybe even b18b block on stock sleeves
aftermarket pistons (CP, Arias, Wiseco, JE)
aftermarket rods (Eagles)
headstuds (ARP or AEBS)

Then piece together your own turbo setup. In a CRX 11-12's is very easy to do. You could probably do it on a completely stock internal block, but with aftermarket pistons and rods the motor should be able to handle quite a bit of power.

Ls1 FD3s

stock block power baby!

bnut510

doooooooooood

Ls1 FD3s

SWEEEEEET

nsxmatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
b18a, ls tranny, T3/T4 57trim .63ar exhaust running 10lbs of boost or a
b16a, b16 tranny, t3/t4 not sure on trim but with 8lbs of boost
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or B16 at 10lbs with a 57trim. Push about 250whp, very reliable, and with 2200lbs you will have barely enough power for 11's but mid to low 12's on slicks for sure. Push the motor to 300whp at the track and you should do 11's easy.

KeyserSoze

Some food for thought about tranny selection from a learned doooooooood.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Gear ratios are merely a way to trade torque for rpm. With a higher numerical gear ratio, you are putting more rpm at the wheel. With closer gear ratios, you are able to stay at a higher rpm in between shift points. Something like the LS transmissions are suited more towards the broad torque curve/low reving LS engine. It keeps you in the peak torque area in between shifts. The ITR/SI/GSR transmissions keep the rpm's built up in between shifts, to stay in the more peaky powerband.

Having said that, for the track the itr/si tranny is the best hands down. Most high whp turbo engines are operating between 5.5-9k, and having their shift points in between. In combination with a tall slick size (24.5"+), and the high shift point (8.5-9k), you are able to keep the engine operating within the optimum torque curve.

With the LS transmission, between shifts it would possibly drop you out of the optimal powerband and therefore make you slower. Gearing simply put allows you to stay in the powerband of your engine in between shifts.

The myth that you stay in gear longer with the LS transmission makes you faster is purely false. Think about that statement for a second. Acceleration is the measure of velocity over a unit time. Watching the rpms climb on the tach during a 3rd/4th gear pull, they would be climbing slower than with the si/itr tranny. Looking at the definition of acceleration as a measure of velocity over a unit time, the engine would be getting to the same velocity over a slower time lapse. This would yield slower acceleration, and simply put make you slower.

Having said that, the gsr transmission is probably the best balance of a street/strip transmission. The gearing is a little less aggressive as the itr/si transmissions, which will yield a little more traction. For all out acceleration si/itr tranny wins hands down. For a slower car, go with the LS transmission.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like was stated earlier, go with a vtec head if you can. LSV or b16, GL.

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some food for thought about tranny selection from a learned doooooooood.

Like was stated earlier, go with a vtec head if you can. LSV or b16, GL.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea i have read that quote before. great info! also i think im almost 100% on the b16 for a lot of reasons.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Or B16 at 10lbs with a 57trim. Push about 250whp, very reliable, and with 2200lbs you will have barely enough power for 11's but mid to low 12's on slicks for sure. Push the motor to 300whp at the track and you should do 11's easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like stated before i think im going to go with a b16 and i want to keep the block as stock as possible. i am wondering how safe and or reliable the car would be making about 250whp on 10lbs. The car will be fully tuned. not just a basemap or anything. i would like it to last a while before needing a rebuild. Thanks

KeyserSoze

It seems that @ 10 psi many engines put closer to 300hp out. Just some food for thought.

JDMs1eeper

Full weight 1992 Civic HB, 2400 w/ me in it. Full tank of 93.

LS swap, 10psi tuned.

11.9 @ 114, slicks

20psi

11.5 @ 121 coastin, slicks (blew charge pipe)

17psi
12.3 @ 125 , street tires


its a lot easier than most people make it out to be. Get a nice set of slicks and tune on 10-12psi

red_crx

iTrader: (2)

It shouldn't be too hard in a crx.... I'm hoping for mid 12's to 11's in my crx...i just haven't had a chance to run it