not 14psi daily though...probably 7 daily and 14 on raceday...

 

I also threw in a Nuforms blockgard that I got pretty much free. Extra holes were drilled into it before I got it. My car car runs a lot cooler after my rebuild which is also when the blockguard was installed.

 

I boosted 1.6 bar (23.2psi) on my D16Y8 with stock sleeves, my hybrid piston/rod combo, 95 octane gas, and a blockguard. No overheating issues, it kept everything together, and it worked great. Had a blockguard in my bone-stock B20B shortblock, and I broke the ringlands from doing a 1.3 bar (18.85psi) 5th gear run with a Supra on an untuned ECU (my own fault), but the sleeves are still in one piece, apart from a few scratches on the insides of the cylinders. I killed the supra TT, BTW

People say they have fitment issues with blockguards.. if they slip in with ease, then they aren't going to do much for your sleeves are they.. all the blockguards i've seen (that sit at the top of the cylinders) have had to be grinded down on the sides in order to have a proper tight fit.

I swear by them. I seriously don't think sleeving is necessary for a street car pushing lots of boost, otherwise my D16Y8 would've blown up ages ago.. to me, its proof that they do their job, and they do it well.

nathan's opinion of a blockguard =

:: my B20B blockguard after grinding & installation ::

 

i dont get it. why does the sleeve need extra stabilization at the top unless it is detonating????

 

I think you may have answered your own question . Detonation is unpredictable even if you may have a perfect tune like a case of a bad tank of gas, overboosting, etc.,

 

I agree that those can happen but shouldn't you guys tune for that if you have a daily driver? I have my car setup so it will handle bad gas or a hot timing setup. Then again, on race day that all changes.

 

In a perfect world that would be feasible, but we dont live in one. All we can do is minimize any possibility of detonating a motor but sometimes **** happens and it will. I'll take my blockguard, semi-perfect tune, knock sensor and call it a day .

 

Hey, Nathan!

I'm still up in the air about the blockguard, I'm running your piston/rod on a
Z6 bottom Y8 head, and I just don't know.

Would I be retarted not to use one? It's not even remotely an issue of price or anything I just can decide if I belive that they actually do anything.

I wanna run 14 daily and then beat on it with some good gas.
(if it goes it's still just a D)

ohh and I just gotta know...
compared to your B20 and the SOHC @ 1.6 BAR was it a world of differance or did that 1.6 still put you back in your seat HARD?

sorry if I went of topic guys.

 

oh ok. well... in my opinion, active knock retard is a better solution than splitting open a stock block for no other reason than to fortify it against bad gas.

 

will a str 88-99 4cyl sohc blockguard work on a dohc zc? I know it sounds like a stupid question but arent the blocks roughly the same? I think they might have put the sohc phrase so that it wouldnt cause confusion with the other vtec motors, but i think it is still causing consfusion anyway.
thanks guys

 

I highly recommend you use one, especially on a D-series. A blockguard is a small price to pay for insurance, and peace of mind. Just make sure that it is installed correctly, and that the water holes on the blockguard match up with the water holes on your head gasket - you shouldn't have a heating issue, because I didn't.

Of course, the B20B pulls really hard, but I'd have to say that the SOHC at 1.6 bar pulled just as hard, if not, a little bit more harder. 1.6 bar glued me to my seat, the feeling was phenomenal.. especially coming from a 1.6l SOHC VTEC engine in an EK sedan!! And yes people, I had stock sleeves, and a blockguard in my D16Y8 with Toyota Supra pistons, and B16A connecting rods

so go get that blockguard in, so you can start boosting 1-1.2 bar daily