... i know, i know... most people dont recommend it and say "sleeve it"... anyways, if you were gonna go with a blockguard, which one would you go with?... lemme know... thanks...

 

golden eagle now sells a blockguard. call them up and see what they have to say.

 

no blockguard is best....secondly sleeving and blockguards serve different purposes

 

blockguards are a waste of money. How much are you gonna boost?

 

... hoping to boost 14+psi (tuning dependant)...

 

str/ac auto technic/ ge all have the same open tanged block guard ...get anyone of those..stay away from nuformz unless u plan on machining larger coolant passages ..

 

I had fitment issues with my solo block-guard on my b16... if that helps...

 

i'm lookin at blockguards too... anyone know who has good prices??

 

Dont waste your money. I installed the race engineering block guard per spec. I experienced overheating all the time. It was so bad that i had to tear the head off the block i couldnt keep the car cooled down enough if i had to sit and idle. There was no other changed other than the block guard. Some people have good experiences with them, some dont. I didnt, and i will never use them again.

 

So why would blockguards be a bad thing? Why did it overheat?

 

in SCC there was a highlight of a chick in a hb that run a blockguard and stock bottom end and making tons of power. i'm not sure about this but there are newer blockguards that do not disrupt cooling effects, they have special grooves and canals i think. anyone have more verifiable info of this?

 

shami is her name.

uhm..the proper way is to cut the passage holes to match those of the coolant passages on head..only way for it to effectively flow. also weld it in

 

I wouldn't say they're useless at all. It saved my block twice. My first ls block cracked a sleeve (fmu problems) w/no blockguard. Ever since then I've been running a race eng blockguard, no cooling problems. I ran it on a ls block and I ran it on a b16 block for awhile, I bought one for that too. Never had problems with them.

However I did managed to crack ringlands on both block, loaded the wrong tune on the LS and made multiple passes at the track. I found out later that day . With the b16 totaly messed around with that block seeing how far I could boost with that motor. Hated that torqueless pos.

 

Golden Eagle

If you are only going to make around 250-260whp, I would say no block is fine.. but when you start pushing the limits of the fuel like 300-350, I would definitely recommend the block guard.. The only time I have broken an engine or had problems is when i DIDNT use a block guard.. Im not a fan of the nuformz design, but I never had any issues when I ran it..


jason

 

A blockguard won't save your engine from blowing. Huge misconception!! All it does is prevents shrapenal from causing damage to other component in the event that your sleeves do crack...either way, you're screwed, so why bother getting one?

On the the other hand, resleeving fortifieds the block with stronger durable sleeves so there is less chance of it cracking in the first place...big difference!

 

MiraiZ- Block guards just stablizes the top of the cylinder from moving around. Thats what cracks sleeves. St00pid has made **** loads of power with these items, that should tell you something. He didn't base his opinion on one car. He has built a **** load of turbo cars and raced the crap outta them without a issue. Tuning is what saves motors. I bought one off of St00pid last year and I have no issues with overheating and my summer was disgustingly hot, and I get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic everyday for at least a hour each way from work and back. You must have missed his last article in the magazine and his other 406whp LS both with blockguards.

 

Resleeving with stronger sleeves and having a blockguard welded in is not only cheaper than a full closed deck, but also a lot easier for the machine shop to install. I needed bigger sleeves for the 84mm bore and couldn't find anything under $500, not including install. With the new open deck sleeves and a block guard, I'm at less than $400 including install of the new sleeves.

A well designed block guard/sleeve combo will hold the big power.

 

I run Golden Eagle block guard on a 20 over block, No Problems at all! It takes Good Engine Management and Tuning. Running 400whp on a non sleeved block!!!

 

Blockguard here on a .20 over block. But I do suggest sleeving if it fits into your budget.

 

I ran the nuformz blockguard with no issues, held 17psi fine.

 

i run a race engineering block guard whit no prob at all

 

what brand block guard would u guys recommend for a b18c1 with about 14 psi..some people said the nuformz blockguard doesnt fit that good...anybody have the golden eagle???

 

14+ psi you should definately spend the oney and sleeve. You're gonna end up doing it ayay, but probably the hard way!

 

I've had a Nuformz blockguard for over a year now, including in the summer and I live in Texas. No cooling problems so far.

 

what do you drive dude???