<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAH2B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one thing i do question about the evo kit is weather or not the shift fork requires more hydro pressure to move it. this would quickly wear out an old slave and/or master cylinder and cause the exact problems everyone is complaining about.

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so what do i win!!!!

 

the evo fork will requires less pressure to move it then the stock fork

but the evo fork needs to be pushed more (like a 1/2" or so) then the stock one will

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LA_HONDAS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the evo fork will requires less pressure to move it then the stock fork

but the evo fork needs to be pushed more (like a 1/2" or so) then the stock one will</TD></TR></TABLE>
hence the problem im having of being locked out of the next gear. But the new parts are on the way from EVO. So well see how it works.

 

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So evo sent me the wrong part. When i got home the package had a pcv adapter in it, im going to see if they will overnight the correct part tomorrow. Now when i change this fork out do i have to drop the tranny completely? Or could i disconnect everything and leave the axles in the tranny but take them out the hubs and just slide the tranny back enough to get the fork out and put the other one in? Seems like it would be alot easier then dropping it all the way out. It also seems like there is enough space to put the fork on through the "window" on the tranny

 

you have to take it out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LA_HONDAS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to take it out </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Alright got it out tonight and found a little oil on the bottom of the starter and around the bulk end of the axle. Could this be the oil seal for the axle? It doesnt leak onto the floor when parked though. I guess ill just replace it tomorrow and put the tranny back in and wait for the part to show up

 

oil near starter sounds like it could be coming from where the speed sensor is, check if the speed sensor is bolted down nicely or could it be leaking from the seal around it.

 

The new slave cylinder adapter arrived 2day. But because of this one that doesnt work my tranny needs to be rebuilt again. So im probably not gonna install it till this winter.

 

ok so is this a recall from evolution? i mean i haven't had a single tranny problem the past year i've had it. But i don't want anything to [freak] up my tranny so do i have to install this?

 

I dont know if i would call it a recall just yet as there are only a couple people having problems. If i were you i wouldnt mess with anything since yours works

 

i think its mostly us canadians having the issues lol

 

I wished i wasnt having no problems. Now i changed the fork out but cant try it out cause i still havent recieved my adapter for the slave yet

 

Well piece finally showed up today and i am very disappointed in this company. First Turtle said he would overnight the part on thursday, so i bust *** dropping the tranny and swapping out forks so i could drive my car this weekend and part never shows. I call him on friday and he tells me he sent it next day air and it should be there by the end of the day. So part shows up today and the ups sticker even says ground on it so he basically lied to me about the shipping of the part. Then after all this **** the part doesnt even work. Same exact problem car wont go into gear at all. Clutch has been bled and there is pedal pressure. What the hell am i supposed to do now? Is the problem narrowed down to the flywheel now??

 

I will post pics later but the slave has a nice long throw, the pedal travel is also long. Im starting to think its just what 2fastGSR said on the first page, that its the flywheel. The friction surface is raised alot and has too much material. It would make sense and cause the exact problems everyone has. Here is a pic of the evo kit flywheel (the best i could find) compared to a fidanza B-series

 

I also measured the adapter plate and its a 1/2" thick. I thought the qsd plate was also 1/2" thick? So why would the qsd flywheel spacer not work with the evo it?

 

[freak] dude i feel bad for you. but i don't understand how it's only happening to a few of you. maybe the new kits have a problem with them. I mean seems like all you people bought your kits in 2008 while people that bought them pre 08 never had a problem?

 

hearing this is kinda making me want to go back to an hseries tranny with solid bushings and twin disk clutch

 

so does this mean im buying the qsd kit?

 

Turbo,
If the update did not solve your problem, then something else is awry. The flywheel is a very simple unit to manufacture, and I cannot stress enough that the same flywheel and kit exists in my own all motor street car and 9 second full race setup with smooth shifts to over 10,200 rpms. The basis for the engineering on the evo H2B flywheel face is from a new factory Honda flywheel.

This past weekend in bakersfield (N vs S race) there were three B series powered cars that had shifting problems (b engine and trans)... and they all bled their systems properly to solve them: 2 worked...the other has a bad clutch.

On more thing, there is no way that an extended fork can cause a slave to go bad...these assumptions are getting out of control. As a matter of fact, due to leverage advantages, there is less effort required of the slave cylinder on an extended fork than a factory one.

 

Well i believe that you fix should work on the h2b kits. Its really cold up here in canada else i would have had the fix in already. But seeing that turbo had issues i will try to install mine either asap to see if it works.

I have an oem itr flywheel in preparation for the qsd kit lol. But the oem flywheel is very similar to the evo one. Maybe some could measure them to see if there's a difference in the lift.





Modified by BrowNKiD at 10:05 AM 11/11/2008

 

Bisi,
How do you properly bleed a clutch? I have used the pedal method and a pressure bleeder at my work. Neither have shown any air in the system and the master was beench bled. Pedal has stiff firm pressure all the way through. I just dont see that being the problem. My clutch is a brand new competition stage 4 so i doubt thats the problem. ALlso the master is adjusted all the way out so the pedal has no play in it at all.

Brownkid- Dont give up yet man and spend money on another kit. Evo is still working with me on this and if worse comes to worse i will drive my car up there and have them check it out. Im only 4 hours away from them. Turtle told me he would talk to his boss and see what to do and for me to call him later today.

 

I got my car driving today and what i did was pry the fork back a little and have the slave starting point a little further out and it shifts perfect no problems at all. The only down side to this is its not letting the fork go all they way back to its resting point so the pressure plate has pressure on it and wont let the clutch grab when i get on it. But hey i had to get to work this is my DD in the colder months i cant ride my crotch rocket

 

yes please keep us posted i hope there is an answer to our issues, im just scared of going back to the track and not having my gears open up especially 2nd gear since its the 2nd time i put a fresh 2nd gear in my car