i bought mine from honda

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fukenricen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i get the flywheel bolts anywhere?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a QSD kit you will need extended flywheel bolts that you can get through QSD, they are ARP bolts wich is nice. QSD has two spacers I belive, one is aluminum and the other is chromoly, you can use ANY B series clutch and flywheel combo you please!!! ClutchMasters makes a H2B flywheel spacifically for the QSD kit that eliminates the need of a spacer.

 

wow thanks for the excellent feedback, i will be contacting them for a twin disk ready flywheel or just a spacer and bolts,


One last question what was the issue with the evolution kit is it the flywheel or the plate itself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fukenricen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow thanks for the excellent feedback, i will be contacting them for a twin disk ready flywheel or just a spacer and bolts,


One last question what was the issue with the evolution kit is it the flywheel or the plate itself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can't just use a QSD spacer and bolts on the EVO kit. The plates are different thicknesses and therefore the spacer is different thickness. I know, i thought that would solve my problem as well, but that wont work.

SPEC has an H2B twin disc and flywheel designed for the EVO H2B. . .

 

here is the thing, i have a tiltan twin disk carbon carbon for bseries and i really would like to put it in but i dont know how im going to get it to work with my h2b, is there any way i can get a custom flywheel for it?

 

actually i think my issue might be the clutch im using since its not really made for the hp and torque i am running, i know when i was on the phone with cc they told me the clutch was good for 500max. im at 520now and 412wtq so looks like its over its limit.


i am currently on a cc stage 4 with a beefed up pressure plate unsprung 6 puck i believe

 

Why not just get/make a coustom spacer to the right thickness the evo kit calls for?

 

i been a little iffy about anyone down here doing that plus where would i buy the flywheel bolts i heard you cant just call arp and order them rumour has it

 

How much thicker is the Evo kit vs. the QSD kit?

 

Guys, this is getting out of hand. I have this kit in my own street cars, and I even run mid to low 9s with the same setup without problems...with a single disk puck simple setup, at over 10,200 rpms!

I am willing to assist anyone with this problem personally, as there must be a logical explaination to this issue in each isolated case. Over the course of this week, I will systematically explore this issue with those involved.

A flywheel is a very simple device, and so are the slave and master cylinders. To blame this on a kit based upon origin, despite the hundreds successful kits in service is madness.

This issue could be cause by anything from a poorly bled hydraulic system, a bent clutch fork, poor clutch disengagment, to bad trans oil.

In regard to a tilton twin disk flywheel, we have them available now for the H2B. Feel free to PM for details, as it is a one piece unit, and no spacers involved.

 

i spoke to the guys at CC and hopefully have a ruff idea what its going to cost me, they have a h2b flywheel that is made for their Twindisk, joe at altech performance and Pinho with the all motor crx running 11.4 and joe running 10.4 are both using that twin and have had no issues with that clutch.

the shifting was fine on my car until i went past the mark which cc said is over the limit for my clutch right now which is 500hp max now that im at 520 i cant get my 2nd in at high rpms.

 

well honestly i would love to get some help on this matter. U name it ive changed it!

 

usefull advise&gt; there are too many hands in the basket at the moment, work with 1 person who is willing to help you get everything figured out and who is currently using the evo kit w/ sucess

 

I have noticed that between my gsr hatch and my h2b hatch, that there are huge differences in clutch engagement. It really isn't a hard problem to figure out on mine. I bought a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and bled the system 2x the amount that should have had to be done.(I replaced both items b/c I thought the master cylinder was done for) and I figured that I had the same amount of force from the master cylinder, same force from the slave cylinder, but the new factor was the distance, making the pressure needed to engage the clutch less demanding. I remembered that Work=Force x Distance. The distance has changed, therefore, things have gotten more efficient, and way wierd.

 

what kit r u using?

 

theres alot of actual member response about different kits on this thread i like

 

I have been running an EVO kit for almost a year. I track the car and rape it on the streets.... NEVER had an issue.

I would suggest is to check the runnout at crank.
I have seen cranks crack, warp, and flex. This would cause the flywheel to "wobble" thus not allowing it to fully disengage. It happened to us during a filming of PINKS, forceing use to drop out of the show.

Bisi can vouch for this, we tried 5 different clutch options....With th clutch pedel pressed in, the highest the car would rev was about 5k. Then the RPMs would have to drop way down between shifts in order to engage the next gear.

Exedy, SPEC, CC, CM, and ACTION clutches....Some singles, some twin disks.
Finally we found the "wobble"....Upon teardown we discovered a cracked crank...

This was in 2poin6's All Motor Drag Civic....Granted it isnt H2B, but I dont see a difference.


Modified by Gen2ITR at 2:47 PM 10/25/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fastGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well this is what I believe . . . .

Take this for what its worth as it is only my personal experience. . . Maybe someone from Evo can chime in because they didnt like to respond to my emails.

I HAD the evo kit. Everything shifted fine until i put a stronger clutch in the car.
My problems started when the car started creeping forward on the line. Clutch pedal fully depressed, on the 2 step, car would just start moving.
Then in high rpms the car would not go into gear.

I tried everything, switched clutches, trans rebuilds, different trans, replaced slave, master, lines, linkages, etc.

Spoke to engineers at evo and the most they could muster up was how many high horsepower race cars use their kits and havent had a problem so my little AM car should be fine.
We came up with the conclusion that the clutch was not disengaging enough to allow it to shift at high rpms.
Shaving 15 thousandths off the face of the flywheel is what the engineers suggested.
Did that, still wouldn't shift. Tried pedal stops to make sure it wasnt over engaging any longer, didnt work either.

So finally my motor let go and we took everything apart. It wasnt until then that i saw what I PERSONALLY think is the issue. Evo uses a one piece flywheel with a spacer attached to it to make up the distance. Well the step on the front of the flywheel is MUCH larger then on a stock b series flywheel. The flywheel is spaced from the back, and this material on the front is what wears down so i believe that this material is too thick.
I measured it next to a stock b series flywheel and the front ( trans facing ) step on the flywheel is something like a couple hundred thousandths larger than a b series flywheel. Doesnt sound like much but in the grand scheme of things, i think that is the issue.
That thick material is not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. .

So when i sent my findings to EVO , the person i spoke to said - oh yeah i was having the same problem with my car and i had to have a custom pressure plate made ( when a month earlier i was crazy for even saying i had an issue)
So to me doesnt that mean there is a flaw in the design?
Now i know there are tons of people out there using the kit that are having no problems. A good friend of mine is one of them.
I have switched everything under the sun. My pops even machined different length rods for the slave to give it more and less throw.

Unfortunately the only way i found to rectify the situation was to switch to a Qsd kit.
Thats definitely the answer you didnt want to hear, but made the most sense to me.
Again, i might get flamed but this is my experience. Take it for whatever you'd like . .

</TD></TR></TABLE>

same exact thing happend to my buddy's gsr hatch, when he would rev it with the clutch fully pressed down the car would start moving forward, and it wouldn't shift at high RPM's.. felt like he was hitting a brick wall or something...

he messed with some valve or push rod by his clutch pedal and it let out some air (made a hiss noise) and the clutch seemed to work a little better after that

 

im pretty sure the motor is healthy. It was dynoed and made 193 stock motor on a dynapack. But i have tried jus about everything else. How do i check if theres crank walk?

 

It would probably require the trans removal....Actually with the engine running and a trustworthy assistant... Check the little timing window... you should see if the fylwheel "wobbles" from there... Try to stand to the side of the car and have your buddy put the car in 3rd or 4th (so the car doesnt jump to hard), hold the clutch in and rev it up....

Ultimatly I would pull the trans and attach a dial indicator the the block....Zero it out against the flywheel flange (crank end) and turn slowly by hand... I dont know if there is a spec for it... But if its too much variance I would have have it machined flat.

The motor doesnt have to necessarily be un-healthy to have a runout issue...
This might not be it, but from expierence I would definatly check for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gen2ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would probably require the trans removal....Actually with the engine running and a trustworthy assistant... Check the little timing window... you should see if the fylwheel "wobbles" from there... Try to stand to the side of the car and have your buddy put the car in 3rd or 4th (so the car doesnt jump to hard), hold the clutch in and rev it up....

Ultimatly I would pull the trans and attach a dial indicator the the block....Zero it out against the flywheel flange (crank end) and turn slowly by hand... I dont know if there is a spec for it... But if its too much variance I would have have it machined flat.

The motor doesnt have to necessarily be un-healthy to have a runout issue...
This might not be it, but from expierence I would definatly check for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

checked the flywheel dead straight... im still waiting on evo to get back to me i have sent numerous emails and no response.

 

Im stumpped.
I know it isnt Bisi's problem, but it seems like he is more then willing to help.
I would PM him.

Dont give up on the EVO kit just yet.
You'll be sad if you switch!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gen2ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll be sad if you switch!</TD></TR></TABLE>
???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gen2ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll be sad if you switch!</TD></TR></TABLE>

why is that? i've NEVER heard 1 complaint of about the QSD kit since its release (circa 2003) other than spacing out the the hood.

 

I guess its just a personal preference.
I have installed both kits in customer cars....
I feel that the Evo kit is better in quality and better in appearance.
That led my decision to use the Evo/Bisi kit in my personal vehicle.
I would only recommend the Evo kit for my future customers.


I do not mean to "knock" on the QSD kit by any means.
I'm sorry if it came off that way.