Should these same steps be followed when detailing carbon fiber parts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should these same steps be followed when detailing carbon fiber parts</TD></TR></TABLE>
Carbon fiber parts can have either a clearcoat or a gelcoat. A gelcoat might actually get hazy from the wrong products being used on it. I'd recommend patch testing in an inconspicuous place before doing the entire part.

If it's a gelcoat, marine detailing products can work well. Boats have gelcoats like some carbon fiber parts do. Meguiar's also makes a marine line, which comes in blue bottles.

 

i got a question my 06 civic i had it re painted by a pro shop WAB
http://www.watsonvilleautobody.com/ now i was told by the shop that it takes 3 full months to settle but not to use Any wax before , now i want to gather you knowledage based on what i'v seen out of your work , what short listed car care kits can i keep to matain the car as best as possible? like a cosumer line up or someting like that. quality wise is more important then branded but budget isnt an issue so if like mcquires line up is solid or zymol etc etc let me know the list. lastly the bodyshop did recommend to use mcquires gold class series. any thoughts or comments on your behalf ?

 

REF: Hand Detailing Checklist

 

i know theirs a list i saw it but that seems to many lol but i mean like should i only use 3 or w/e just something that i can remember i do spent several hrs cleaning it so pretty **** about it but since its a new paint job thats why im asking about your recommenditions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know theirs a list i saw it but that seems to many lol but i mean like should i only use 3 or w/e just something that i can remember i do spent several hrs cleaning it so pretty **** about it but since its a new paint job thats why im asking about your recommenditions</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need at least the following to do the basic details I do:

Exterior Products

- Car Wash
- Clay Bar (new paint probably doesn't need this... yet)
- Polish
- Glaze
- Wax
- At least one applicator pad for polish/glaze/wax
- Approximately 10 microfiber cloths
- Metal Polish (for muffler/tailpipe NOT painted wheels)
- Tire Shine
- Trim Protectant (for exterior black trim - if any)

Interior Products

- Vacuum
- OxyCleaner
- Glass Cleaner
- Vinyl/Rubber Cleaner/Protectant
- At least one imcrofiber cloth
- At least one glass cloth
- Soft Toothbrush

Eran lives with me and is my boyfriend. I use the products he has listed. I prefer Meguiar's though I use sopme Mothers and 3M in particular too.

 

can you recommend a cheap/good brand for
CLAY
POLISH
WAX?

got a question about claying, can i just use water instead of clay lubricant?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you recommend a cheap/good brand for
CLAY
POLISH
WAX?

got a question about claying, can i just use water instead of clay lubricant?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the posts above yours for information on what products I use.

And yes. I often use either a spray bottle with water (a mist is best to spray) or a hose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Read the posts above yours for information on what products I use.

And yes. I often use either a spray bottle with water (a mist is best to spray) or a hose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you didnt recommend the product brand? like mothers or mcquiars etc

are you absolutely positive water is enough? wouldnt the lubricant help it glide better?

 

1)does it matter what paticular order its done like glaze first or polish or wax will it damge it or prevent it to be protected due to steps? 2) the clay bar thing so as long as i wet the surface then i can use the clay where its wet? or should i play it safe and use the proper liquid?

man i gotta do a good detail to a 96 accord 4dr black its got swirls and what not , wasnt taken care of much any suggestions to restoring it ? ill try to get detailed shots of the car . (selling it later )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didnt recommend the product brand? like mothers or mcquiars etc

are you absolutely positive water is enough? wouldnt the lubricant help it glide better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use water all the time with no problem whatsoever. You can stick to the "clay lube" (aka, detail spray) if you wish.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1)does it matter what paticular order its done like glaze first or polish or wax will it damge it or prevent it to be protected due to steps? 2) the clay bar thing so as long as i wet the surface then i can use the clay where its wet? or should i play it safe and use the proper liquid?

man i gotta do a good detail to a 96 accord 4dr black its got swirls and what not , wasnt taken care of much any suggestions to restoring it ? ill try to get detailed shots of the car . (selling it later ) </TD></TR></TABLE>
Polishing after will remove the delicate glaze.

Think about what each product does and you'll realize there is no other oder to do it.

I listed everything in the order it should be done on the first page.

Black is difficult to work with. So I can wish you luck on it. Remember that you won't get rid of scratches and your best bet is trying to hide them with the products and enough buffing.

 

its minor scratches that arent noticeable swirls etc etc.... hey once i wash it polish glaze wax is it a good ideal to wash it once more incase theirs any left out particles? or would that just simply kill all the work ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its minor scratches that arent noticeable swirls etc etc.... hey once i wash it polish glaze wax is it a good ideal to wash it once more incase theirs any left out particles? or would that just simply kill all the work ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I follow with a wash sometimes when I have had trouble getting rid of the oily swirls that polish, glaze and wax can sometime leave.

After you buff it over one last time at the end though, there shouldn't be any dust on the car.

Remember always do all this in the shade.

 

but what i mean is theirs no harm or any loss to the work if you wash it right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what i mean is theirs no harm or any loss to the work if you wash it right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would *I* wash cars afterwards if it would mean I'd just wasted the last 3-7 hours?

 

Hey, if you start your car and spray your car down with simple green, doesn't that mean you're car is going to be hot. Therefore, hot headers which can lead to crack headers if you spray cold material on it?

 

I don't know about your car, but my car takes a little bit to warm up. I've NEVER had an issue with spraying down an engine bay.

No cars shutting off, nothing breaking or cracking, nothing falling off and no issues with starting the car or such afterwards.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1)does it matter what paticular order its done like glaze first or polish or wax will it damge it or prevent it to be protected due to steps? 2) the clay bar thing so as long as i wet the surface then i can use the clay where its wet? or should i play it safe and use the proper liquid?

man i gotta do a good detail to a 96 accord 4dr black its got swirls and what not , wasnt taken care of much any suggestions to restoring it ? ill try to get detailed shots of the car . (selling it later ) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope you have a rotary buffer, even with a PC you will be there forever to try to remove swirls.

yellow cutting pad or a foamed wool pad + Optimum Hyper Compound should get rid of the swirls with ease. or you can try regular Optimum compound if they arent as severe. then I'd follow with Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze, then your wax or sealant.

if you try using polish to get out swirls on a black car you will be there forever and you probably wont get them out.

Honda paint is relatively soft however, but you will still need something with cut like OHC, Megs #83, etc.

and I dont see why you would have to wash the car afterwards. if you properly apply and remove everything there should ne no film or residue left, even with oily sealants.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and I dont see why you would have to wash the car afterwards. if you properly apply and remove everything there should ne no film or residue left, even with oily sealants.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do it all by hand and sometimes the weather isn't the best for working with the products I use. Sometimes, no matter how hard I try, the oily marks won't come off without a wash.

I don't use a buffer of any sort, thus why this thread is titled "Hand Detailing Tips".

The peopel asking questions in here generally:
- do not have buffers.
- are not willing to spend money on a buffer.
- do not know how to choose a decent buffer.
- do not want to risk practicing on their only car.

 

Are you serious? Hm, my car must be fucked up. I start my car up, take it around the block and its piping hot. I sprayed water on it, fumes were coming up like mad off my header. And I had to wait a hour or two for it cool off. Then again, the bottle that connects to my radiator got loose and fell and got melted when it touched my header. (Not sure, previous owner was a retard must not have bolted it on.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I do it all by hand and sometimes the weather isn't the best for working with the products I use. Sometimes, no matter how hard I try, the oily marks won't come off without a wash.

I don't use a buffer of any sort, thus why this thread is titled "Hand Detailing Tips".</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe it is the particular product you are using. while I always apply via PC, I always remove by hand so I dunno

and I dont recommend anyone try to remove swirls by hand

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe it is the particular product you are using. while I always apply via PC, I always remove by hand so I dunno

and I dont recommend anyone try to remove swirls by hand </TD></TR></TABLE>
I never recommended anyone remove swirls by hand and in fact stated before that it's not going to happen.

As for products, they're listed in the thread I linked above on this page.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I never recommended anyone remove swirls by hand and in fact stated before that it's not going to happen.

As for products, they're listed in the thread I linked above on this page.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, they can TRY to remove them

 

Havent read the whole thread, but do you have anything on carbon fiber? Im not srue but I thought you werent suposed to wax CF. What do you suggest?

 

Oh, I'm with this guy, you aren't soposed to wax a CF? I wax mine all the time! Am I not soposed too?