<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Tune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, I'm with this guy, you aren't soposed to wax a CF? I wax mine all the time! Am I not soposed too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

of course you are. why would want to leave the clearcoat unprotected?

 

That's what I was saying, I was worried for a minute =P

 

When polishing/glazing/waxing arent you supposed to do circular motions? Or is it better to do back and forth motions?

My paint is lacking right now.. but is it too hot to wax and stuff its like 100 here in AZ. Should I just do it at night or somethin in my garage?

What is the best polish/glaze/wax to use?

I remember seeing an polish in a orange bottle.. should I use that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m1ndless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When polishing/glazing/waxing arent you supposed to do circular motions? Or is it better to do back and forth motions?

My paint is lacking right now.. but is it too hot to wax and stuff its like 100 here in AZ. Should I just do it at night or somethin in my garage?

What is the best polish/glaze/wax to use?

I remember seeing an polish in a orange bottle.. should I use that? </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you applicator is clean you should be able to go in circular motions. nothing you are doing should be inducing new swirls.

product choice is all a metter of prefrence and what exactly needs to be done. Polishes come in a wide range of cutting power.

Menzerna makes really good polishes, Optimum, Poorboys, etc.

anything you buy at your local auto parts store is going to suck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda_racing101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Havent read the whole thread, but do you have anything on carbon fiber? Im not srue but I thought you werent suposed to wax CF. What do you suggest?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Tune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, I'm with this guy, you aren't soposed to wax a CF? I wax mine all the time! Am I not soposed too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Carbon fiber often DOES NOT HAVE A CLEARCOAT. Some carbon fiber comes with a gelcoat, the same kind that comes on boats. Certain polished and waxes can actually make a gelcoat possibly appear frosted.

SPOT CHECK YOUR CARBON FIBER PARTS BEFORE YOU SMOTHER THEM WITH WAX!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m1ndless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When polishing/glazing/waxing arent you supposed to do circular motions? Or is it better to do back and forth motions?

My paint is lacking right now.. but is it too hot to wax and stuff its like 100 here in AZ. Should I just do it at night or somethin in my garage?

What is the best polish/glaze/wax to use?

I remember seeing an polish in a orange bottle.. should I use that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some say to do circular motions. I do linear motions though.

This is why: Say you get a small piece of ddebris under your applicator. You likely won't even see it. If you go in a circle you will be able to see it from ALL angles. If you go in a straight line you'll only be able to see it from 90 degree angles.

If you end up with a light swirl, it'd be preferable for it to be less visible, right?

I don't use dirty applicator pads, and I even do it linear to make sure. Better safe than sorry.

Detailing at night can be a problem in some locations because of the moisture in the air. The moisture will start to condense on your applicator and will make it more difficult to remove the product. Also, after you wipe it down the car will end up with condensation on the up facing parts (mostly hood, trunk and roof) which will make it difficult to buff and difficult to see where you might have missed spots.

The previous page (and the A/C FAQ) has a link to Eran's product checklist.

 

I'm using Meguair Gold Class wax, on my VIS Racing CF Hood 99-00 EK that I got from password jdm. Is that alright? I'm using clean applicator pads from meguair also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Tune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm using Meguair Gold Class wax, on my VIS Racing CF Hood 99-00 EK that I got from password jdm. Is that alright? I'm using clean applicator pads from meguair also.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it hasn't harmed it yet, iti's probably safe for your hood. Not all hoods will be the same though.

 

I am confused.. E-Rok said stuff I would get at a local auto parts store sucks? I thought brands like mequiers and mothers and stuff were good???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m1ndless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am confused.. E-Rok said stuff I would get at a local auto parts store sucks? I thought brands like mequiers and mothers and stuff were good???</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are.

Some of the better brands you will find at your local auto parts stores (including chains such as Autozone):
- Meguiar's
- Mothers
- 3M
- Kit (tried their carwash, which was nice, but never tried other products yet)
- Stoner Invisible Glass (I prefer aresol since it doesn't soak the glass as easily)

If you want another product or one that your local auto parts store might not have, call up your local auto supply shop. They can often special order anythign you might want that they don't have in stock. A paint supply shop often also carries these products and can do the same.

As far as chain stores go, I've noticed the store that seemed to carry the least amount of decent detail products seemed to be Pep Boys. You might not find everythign you need or want at just one store though. It's better to buy your products a day or so before you want to do the detail so you don't have to run around the same day as you have your car down being cleaned.

Most NAPAs carry the entire 3M line and can order any Meguiar's product.

 

kit scratch-out works good too havent tried scratch-X though

there are waxes and stuff for boat's gel coats too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kit scratch-out works good too havent tried scratch-X though

there are waxes and stuff for boat's gel coats too</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep. Meguiar's has a nice marine line. It comes in blue bottle and you'll probbaly be able to find it at boat shops.

If you have carbon fiber parts and already have wax and polish (or need to buy wax and polish for automotive clearcoat), I'd recommend patch testing that on an inconspicuous location on the part first. Then if it doesn't work out, go pick up some marine products.

Make sure you apply and remove the product and then let it sit awhile to see if it doesn't fog or anything first.

 

The stuff at auto parts store is watered down (the waxes are decent like megs gold class), but polishes and whatnot at auto parts stores are rather weak, and are not a good value for the money.

Meguiars Marine line is decent, I have the entire line downstairs. I find that the one step compound works well for removing oxidation but I must follow it with an application of polish before wax.


I do not recomment trying to remove oxidation on boats via hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stuff at auto parts store is watered down (the waxes are decent like megs gold class), but polishes and whatnot at auto parts stores are rather weak, and are not a good value for the money.

Meguiars Marine line is decent, I have the entire line downstairs. I find that the one step compound works well for removing oxidation but I must follow it with an application of polish before wax.


I do not recomment trying to remove oxidation on boats via hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The products bought at the auto parts store is the same stuff you would buy off Meguiar's site. It's fine for the normal backyard detailer, which is who this thread was written for.

Most people don't NEED to buy the professional line, which often comes in much larger containers than most backyard detailers are going to ever need.

And no one mentioned polishing boats here... This thread is not about detailing boats or using buffers...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The products bought at the auto parts store is the same stuff you would buy off Meguiar's site. It's fine for the normal backyard detailer, which is who this thread was written for.

Most people don't NEED to buy the professional line, which often comes in much larger containers than most backyard detailers are going to ever need.

And no one mentioned polishing boats here... This thread is not about detailing boats or using buffers...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I only brought that up as the marine like was brought up.

what I am saying is, I would much rather get a polish from meguiars mirror glaze line opposed to a watered down polish that is offered at auto parts stores, ya dig? They come in 16oz and 32oz containers. Now the detailer line of cleaning productions obviously is overkill for a normal person since it is havily concentrated and comes in gallons.....however at $19 a gallon is beats paying $7 for a 16oz bottle of cleaner...............

I just wont return to this thread as we obviously dont agree on that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only brought that up as the marine like was brought up.

what I am saying is, I would much rather get a polish from meguiars mirror glaze line opposed to a watered down polish that is offered at auto parts stores, ya dig? They come in 16oz and 32oz containers. Now the detailer line of cleaning productions obviously is overkill for a normal person since it is havily concentrated and comes in gallons.....however at $19 a gallon is beats paying $7 for a 16oz bottle of cleaner...............

I just wont return to this thread as we obviously dont agree on that </TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't suggest to buy a store brand polish or something. I actually recommended Mothers and Meguiar's SEVERAL times over.

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze line IS offered at my local Autozone and was also at my local Autozone and Advance Auto Parts in Delaware when I lived there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't suggest to buy a store brand polish or something. I actually recommended Mothers and Meguiar's SEVERAL times over.

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze line IS offered at my local Autozone and was also at my local Autozone and Advance Auto Parts in Delaware when I lived there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well I meant meguiars and mothers, but they make alot of stuff that sells in stores that isnt very good.

you are lucky you can get mirror glaze in auto parts stores where you live, they only sell the crap stuff like their "deep crystal system" and whatnot (edit: where I live that is).


Modified by E-Rok at 6:45 PM 5/29/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well I meant meguiars and mothers, but they make alot of stuff that sells in stores that isnt very good.

you are lucky you can get mirror glaze in auto parts stores where you live, they only sell the crap stuff like their "deep crystal system" and whatnot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said, I've seen it both here in Washington and back east when I lived in Delaware.

I agree it doesn't carry the entire line, but it does carry enough that a person could test it out to find out if they like it. Then if they like it, maybe they could pick more up at their auto supply shop (which if they don't have it, they should be able to order it for you - they probably have a catalog behind the counter).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Like I said, I've seen it both here in Washington and back east when I lived in Delaware.

I agree it doesn't carry the entire line, but it does carry enough that a person could test it out to find out if they like it. Then if they like it, maybe they could pick more up at their auto supply shop (which if they don't have it, they should be able to order it for you - they probably have a catalog behind the counter).</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed.

I still wonder why you dont use a PC however

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">agreed.

I still wonder why you dont use a PC however </TD></TR></TABLE>
I enjoy hand detailing. Plus I have one body panel I could test a PC on... and I'm not willing to because it will move around too much and possibly damage it. I have a 6th gen coupe trunk here.

I'm not going to learn on my car or Eran's car or any other friend's car either.

As far as availability of products, people really need to learn where their local auto body supply and paint supply shops are. They'd be surprised what better products they can get through such a business.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I enjoy hand detailing. Plus I have one body panel I could test a PC on... and I'm not willing to because it will move around too much and possibly damage it. I have a 6th gen coupe trunk here.

I'm not going to learn on my car or Eran's car or any other friend's car either.

As far as availability of products, people really need to learn where their local auto body supply and paint supply shops are. They'd be surprised what better products they can get through such a business.</TD></TR></TABLE>

body shop supply stores have a good amount of stuff.

and a PC is near impossible to damage paint with

infact, it is such a mild machine that I rarely use it in favor of my rotary.

but thats for a diff thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">body shop supply stores have a good amount of stuff.

and a PC is near impossible to damage paint with

infact, it is such a mild machine that I rarely use it in favor of my rotary.

but thats for a diff thread </TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, I've never really been particularlly intersted in using a machine. I used one briefly when I was working at a business, but I didn't like it. I'm small and it moved too much for my scrawny arms.

Because of this I don't really know a lot about buffers and such. Eran has shown some interest though and so he knows a bit about them. Eran is my boyfriend for reference.

I like to almost constantly touch the car when I clean it. A lot of what I do is based on touch, not visuals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Honestly, I've never really been particularlly intersted in using a machine. I used one briefly when I was working at a business, but I didn't like it. I'm small and it moved too much for my scrawny arms.

Because of this I don't really know a lot about buffers and such. Eran has shown some interest though and so he knows a bit about them. Eran is my boyfriend for reference.

I like to almost constantly touch the car when I clean it. A lot of what I do is based on touch, not visuals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my milwaukee rotary probably weighs a good 8lbs

PC's arent much better than hand application just speed up the process a little. I just use it because it makes application of wax and glazes easy and fast

what brand of microfibers do you use?

 

/sticky

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my milwaukee rotary probably weighs a good 8lbs

PC's arent much better than hand application just speed up the process a little. I just use it because it makes application of wax and glazes easy and fast

what brand of microfibers do you use? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I usually buy whatever microfiber towels I happen to see. I couldn't even tell you the brands. I tear all the tags off so they won't scratch.

I enjoy the time it takes. My own car takes no time at all too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">/sticky</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's in the A/C FAQ sticky already. I'm not sure how stickies will work in this sectiomn yet. You could always report it asking for a sticky, but there isn't an indivudual mod that is said to be assigned to this section yet either (checked last night - I made a list of what mod mods what sections).