Tippyman's Project Thread
I bought a dial bore gauge today.

I'm gonna start tearing the motor down tomorrow.
If the bore of the motor looks ok, then I will probably go with the vitaras. If it's out of round, then I'll have no choice but to overbore and go forged. We'll see.

I'm gonna start tearing the motor down tomorrow.
If the bore of the motor looks ok, then I will probably go with the vitaras. If it's out of round, then I'll have no choice but to overbore and go forged. We'll see.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, they sit about 2mm lower than the top of the sleeve or something like that. I like the idea of low comp though. All you have to do to maintain a nice out of boost driving is tune the vacuum portion of the map properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In fact they only sit 1.5 mm lower than the top of the sleeve. Creates about .047 piston to deck height compared to .020 stock piston to deck height.
Yes, they sit about 2mm lower than the top of the sleeve or something like that. I like the idea of low comp though. All you have to do to maintain a nice out of boost driving is tune the vacuum portion of the map properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In fact they only sit 1.5 mm lower than the top of the sleeve. Creates about .047 piston to deck height compared to .020 stock piston to deck height.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Got_soy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bolt stretch gauge would be a good idea. I *think* they are more accurate/consistent than a torque wrench. Alot of poeple prefer them over wrenches</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I gotta get that and a mic.
BTW: Those T-bolt clamps are ******* expensive. I hate turbos already.
Yeah, I gotta get that and a mic.
BTW: Those T-bolt clamps are ******* expensive. I hate turbos already.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Got_soy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"turboz make me emo"</TD></TR></TABLE>
what you stick your wrists in the turbo while bouncing it off the 2 step??
its the emo honda way to cut yourself
what you stick your wrists in the turbo while bouncing it off the 2 step??
its the emo honda way to cut yourself
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TallKyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what you stick your wrists in the turbo while bouncing it off the 2 step??
its the emo honda way to cut yourself</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you paint razors on your valve cover.
what you stick your wrists in the turbo while bouncing it off the 2 step??
its the emo honda way to cut yourself</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you paint razors on your valve cover.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Got_soy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Said vid http://media.putfile.com/vtac2 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Bwahaha.
Bwahaha.
you may need a straight piece too unless the 45's have enough length...
Comp outlet --> 90 --> 180 --> FMIC --> 180 (cut in half... 2 90's at an angle to another) --> 45 --> 45 --> TB
that's way simplefied, but you may need a straight section between the 45's.
Comp outlet --> 90 --> 180 --> FMIC --> 180 (cut in half... 2 90's at an angle to another) --> 45 --> 45 --> TB
that's way simplefied, but you may need a straight section between the 45's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by computerfreak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why thank you.
I got my bore gauge all figured out, so I might start dissasembling the block tomorrow night.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Why thank you.
I got my bore gauge all figured out, so I might start dissasembling the block tomorrow night.
Just bought a **** load of machining tools. Damn this hobby is expensive.
But it'll be cheaper in the long run when I throw a rod through the hood and have to build another one.
Micrometer:

Ring Compressor:

Ring Filer:

Bunch of feeler gauges:

Jam Nut Tool:

And the all important crank pulley removal tool
:
But it'll be cheaper in the long run when I throw a rod through the hood and have to build another one.
Micrometer:

Ring Compressor:

Ring Filer:

Bunch of feeler gauges:

Jam Nut Tool:

And the all important crank pulley removal tool
:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats with all the tools, don't trust your machine shop? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not so much that as it is a cost thing. Why should I spend more money to have it sent to a machine shop, when instead I can buy the tools, do it myself, and learn a ton about motors. Then I save money and have all these nice tools to boot.
I'll still need to get it honed, possibly bored, but I think it'll be a good learning experience to build it myself.
It's not so much that as it is a cost thing. Why should I spend more money to have it sent to a machine shop, when instead I can buy the tools, do it myself, and learn a ton about motors. Then I save money and have all these nice tools to boot.

I'll still need to get it honed, possibly bored, but I think it'll be a good learning experience to build it myself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not so much that as it is a cost thing. Why should I spend more money to have it sent to a machine shop, when instead I can buy the tools, do it myself, and learn a ton about motors. Then I save money and have all these nice tools to boot. 
I'll still need to get it honed, possibly bored, but I think it'll be a good learning experience to build it myself. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats the way I feel about things too. I dont think I could ever trust myself to do that kind of motor work but I am getting brave with wiring now!

I'll still need to get it honed, possibly bored, but I think it'll be a good learning experience to build it myself. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats the way I feel about things too. I dont think I could ever trust myself to do that kind of motor work but I am getting brave with wiring now!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by harmonator84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats the way I feel about things too. I don't think I could ever trust myself to do that kind of motor work but I am getting brave with wiring now!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's scaring the hell outta me, believe me. There are a couple REALLY good extensive write-ups that I've memorized, and some good books out there. I am hoping that breaking the motor down will help me learn alot about it.
I'm also hoping it's not a complete piece of ****. I'm pretty sure the head is bunk, but I'm using my minty fresh SOHC ZC head anyway. So long as the bore is straight, I'll be happy.
Thats the way I feel about things too. I don't think I could ever trust myself to do that kind of motor work but I am getting brave with wiring now!
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's scaring the hell outta me, believe me. There are a couple REALLY good extensive write-ups that I've memorized, and some good books out there. I am hoping that breaking the motor down will help me learn alot about it.
I'm also hoping it's not a complete piece of ****. I'm pretty sure the head is bunk, but I'm using my minty fresh SOHC ZC head anyway. So long as the bore is straight, I'll be happy.
sounds good. i like to go .5 over on any rebuilt. i find the most useful tools plastiguage, rod strech guage, feeler guage, dial caliber, and a few good torque wrenches. i have the micrometers but don't use them to much. but learning is always invaluable! good luck.






