grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Just bought my first Civic. How do I make it faster?
For people that have been around for a while you see that question is asked fifty-ba-jillion times a week. And we get five-hundred ba-jillion answers-each time saying the same exact things. Most of the following links can easily be found in the FAQs by anyone looking for them. I'll be adding more links as I find them. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Before anyone says "This is just your opinion" I actually have collected dyno results for all of the performance stuff to follow.

Which Civic is best to mod? This is a really important question. Because if you have any trim level less than an EX (just my opinion here) you have a grocery getter with an engine built for super economy. Even the EX is still an economy car and the SI really isn't that much an improvement despite all the hype behind the B16A. And the gearing on transmissions of the lesser models are NOT conducive to hauling *** on the highway. People tend to buy the hatches for weight savings or plain preference but in the 6th gen models the best engine the hatches came with was the lowly D16Y7 (106HP). In the 5th gens you could get the SI in hatch form but the horsepower was only a measly 125hp (U.S.) in the D16Z6 engine. Check Wikipedia for the specs on the engines. When I did I was amazed to find out Honda had been producing engines that were getting 48-55MPG long before Hybrids got popular. Unfortunately these are NOT the engines you want to be modding. If you've bought one of these before researching, I'm sorry to say that you're pretty much very limited as to the power you can coax out of these little 4-bangers. Sorry. Of course you can go the forced induction route on anything with an engine but for best results and a better starting platform stick to the higher trims. If you got or can get a Civic with a swap already in it all the better. I DO NOT recommend buying an already turbocharged Civic if you don't know dick about boost. I PROMISE YOU, you will regret it almost immediately and ESPECIALLY when something goes wrong.

In the case with these cars it's all about power to weight. You don't necessarily need more power than the other car to be faster.

GENERAL UPGRADES
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-sohc-upgrades-%2Arevised%2A-its-long-work-progress-335078/

AFTERMARKET PARTS
If you're an impatient or cheap Civic owner please skip the following;
Many MANY years ago, when I first got into modding, before I got on any forum, I browsed the internet and read all the magazines and bought into all the advertising hype they were spewing. "This part adds XX power" and "that parts adds XX more". I also thought that all parts were the same if they LOOKED the same. That there couldn't be that much of a difference. That it couldn't hurt to cheap out a little because I couldn't afford the real deal at the time. After many years and much time and money wasted, I came to the realization that you cannot believe what these companies are spoon feeding you. That you cannot cheap out because you'll wind up doing it twice, maybe even three of more times. You will look back and realize, like I did, that the money I sunk into the pile of crap parts now sitting on the garage floor could have bought LEGIT parts maybe twice over.

My advice on the issue is simply that you want to buy parts that have good solid R&D behind them with good customer service and MANY glowing customer reviews. Don't jump on bandwagon parts simply because they are popular or are cheap. That's what everyone else is doing and they've convinced themselves that their crap knock-off parts are as good as the parts they are ripping off. Pass on these. Usually, the parts that are not plastered all over the net or in the magazines, are the ones you really want to put on your car because their rep and word of mouth recommendations speak for themselves. Besides, the magazines article writers are more than likely getting kickbacks (money, free product) from these manufacturers to write glowing reviews. It's your choice if you want to ignore my advice.

Myth Buster!
BOLT-ONS The least cost effective means of trying to get power into your Civic (unless you stick to no-name brands off of Ebay). You're better off leaving things stock and dropping in a K&N filter into the stock airbox. What, you say? Intake. Header. Exhaust. "That's the accepted big three upgrades everyone is told to make to get power. It's like, the LAW!" Sorry to tell you there's no Santa Claus but it's a myth perpetrated by the import magazines for years. All these things do for you is shift your power band and really don't ADD usable power, so it only sounds and feels like you've gotten faster but you have not. I don't care what anyone tells you. The only TRUE bolt on that makes power is a supercharger/turbocharger. If you don't believe ME I know you'll believe these dynos.

Dyno results
D-Series - I/H/E - Intake, Header & Exhaust
http://asia.vtec.net/beystock/Civic/art9/index.html
93 SI - http://www.importtuner.com/powerpage..._si/index.html
99 CX - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/civic-cx-dyno-i-h-e-292169/
Z6 (tuned) - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/bolt-all-motor-d16z6-dyno-2488401/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/93-civic-ex-dyno-w-skunk2-cam-plus-bolt-ons-1116589/

D-Series (moderate bolt-ons)
D16Z6 - http://www.d-series.org/forums/natur...ph-inside.html

Here is the official All Motor single cam thread. Judge for yourself.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/all-motor-%2A-sohc-%2A-chime-1771904/

B-Series (moderate bolt-ons)
B16A - https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/bolt-b16-dyno-track-times-ej1-1969547/
B16A - http://clubeg6.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21027
B16A2 VS B18C - http://www.ht-archive.net/showthread.php?p=28826037

A repository of dynos. Please pay attention to the all the N/A builds. No power. No torque. Then compare the supercharger vs. turbocharger.
dynoperformance.com
Sample stats from that link for quick reference (in case that site goes down).
1997 Honda civic hp: 108.9@6520 tq: 95.6@6520 modifications: AEM Underdrive Pulleys,AEM Short Ram Intake,Flowmaster American Thunder Muffler,Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket, 4-1 Header
1990 Honda civic dx hp: 144.7@7580 tq: 101.7@7280 modifications: CAI, DC Sports header, Magnaflow resonator, SPP muffler, Catco catalytic converter, Honda 1990 b16 motor(stock), Honda 1992 Integra GSR transmission
1990 Honda civic dx hp: 144.3@7530 tq: 101.1@7340 modifications: CAI, DC Sports header, Magnaflow resonator, SPP muffler, Catco catalytic converter, Honda 1990 b16 motor(stock), Honda 1992 Integra GSR transmission
1999 Honda civic ex hp: 103.4@6610 tq: 97.8@4520 modifications: AEM Intake,DC Sport Exhaust,Tokico Suspension,Skunk 2 Camber Kit
2000 Honda civic si hp: 152.2@6330 tq: 128.8@6050 modifications: Jackson Racing Eaton supercharger, Thermal catback exhaust, Injen intake
2000 Honda civic si hp: 148.9@7350 tq: 118.5@6130 modifications: Jackson Racing Eaton supercharger, Thermal catback exhaust, Injen intake
1993 Honda civic si hp: 168.9@7320 tq: 127.3@6250 modifications: Jackson Racing M45 supercharger, Kamikaze Exhaust header, 2.5" Random Tech Catalytic converter, Apexi N1 exhaust
1993 Honda civic si hp: 196.9@6230 tq: 183.2@5350 modifications: Greddy SOHC Greddy turbo kit, Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller, TurboXS blow off valve, Hondata s200 with boost option, Johnnyracecar.com front mount intercooler, JE offset pin pistons, Eagle H beam piston rods
1993 Honda civic vx hp: 166.9@4910 tq: 178.5@4910 modifications: Acura Integra 1.8l DOHC engine, Turbonetics turbocharger, Thermal 3 inch catback exhaust
2000 Honda s2000 hp: 202.7@8290 tq: 138.1@6300 modifications: AEM cold air intake

As you can see, regardless of what you've heard, you don't get much of a gain with these simple bolt-ons with a D/B-series. It's only a Civic. It's still slower than a CRV or an Odyssey. I hope to add more to this section as we go. Don't fool yourself into thinking you actually are any faster with bolt-ons. YOU'RE NOT. So getting the most expensive, name brand stuff you can find is just going to put a lot of money in someone else pocket. This is one of those times Ebay CAN be your friend.

Now if you MUST have these on your car, for the placebo effect (or just showing off), this is one of the few times I would recommend just going the Ebay route.
Intakes - A velocity stack and a no-name pipe is your best bet for any horsepower gain. You can throw a cone filter on top of that for piece of mind.

Header - Many have run Ebay headers with no issues. In some of these the gaskets are the weak link and tend to blow out.

Catback Exhaust- Noise quality aside, FITMENT is the biggest issue when purchasing these. The money you spend to get things straightened out would be better served by just buying a quality name brand exhaust or having a shop put one together from scratch. Noise is another issue. What do you think you're getting for $100? Not a deal, I can tell you that much. Maybe some tickets for violating noise ordinances.

SWAPS - Short of turbocharging this is the next best thing to getting power into your Civic if you're just not satisfied. I mean, you can spend thousands (yes, I said thousands) building up an N/A D-series and you MAY be just a little bit more powerful than a stock B16 (which really isn't all that fast). Swaps are cheap. Make note. The bigger displacement engine you pick to swap in, the more difficult and costly it will be to complete the swap.

General Engine Swap Info
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/engine-swap-info-faqs-how-ck-engine-lights-878010/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/faq-detailed-b-series-swap-into-5th-gen-civic-how-check-out-help-everyone-else-too-131949/
http://www.hondahookup.com/info/engine_swap_faq.php

Engine Specific
B-Series
B20 into 92-00 - https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/finally-my-swap-underway-b20-into-96-civic-cx-56k-proceed-caution-447623/
GSR into 92-00 - https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/definitive-guide-gsr-eg-swap-2976738/ http://web.archive.org/web/201102210...cswap/swap.php
How to Build a reliable LS-VTEC/B20VTEC- https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

K-Series
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/%5Bfaq%5D-how-k20-into-92-00-civic-94-01-integra-2059720/

F/H-Series
H22A swap FAQ - https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/%5Bfaq%5D-%2A%2A%2Ah22a-into-civic-eg-ek-information-post-all-h22a-hybrid-info-here%2A%2A%2A-650329/
H2B/F2B FAQ - https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/h2b-f2b-faq-1998426/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650329
IMO if you want to get some serious power and torque into your Civic but refuse to go the F/I route then consider the H2B setup. 200-220hp and apx. 160lbs of torque make s this a no brainer. You get K-series power at a fraction of the cost. If I were to rethink my turbo build I would have taken this route AND THEN slapped a small turbo on it.

J-Series
What you need for a J-swap - http://www.j32a.com/showthread.php?t=773
https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/evans-build-thread-j32a2-v6-eh3-build-up-2410727/

Head Swaps - Mini-Me - I'm only adding links to head swaps to this section that are complete from start to finish and are proven to work. No weird Frankenstein combos will be listed unless it's a link to a COMPLETE guide.
92-95 - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-d15-sohc-vtec-mini-me-massive-write-up-56k-goodbye-554053/
96-00 - http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/view_minime.html
6th-5th gen - https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/massive-d16y8-head-onto-d15b7-8-block-minime-swap-writeup-2147115/
IMO these were a fad that never died out. When I first heard about these they were touted to net you SIGNIFICANT horsepower if you were stuck with anything but a Z6 or a Y8. In reality the gains are really not worth writing home about and because people NEVER want to do these the right way you will see the forums cluttered with these guys begging for help when their head swap goes wrong. Even when you do them the right way you'll be disappointed.

Transmission Swaps (for better gearing-long gears are bad for speed)
92-95 - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-my-auto-manual-swap-pics-56k-no-no-2090074/
96-00 - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-96-00-auto-manual-swap-full-detail-44pics-1337459/

FORCED INDUCTION
Turbo -Hands down the most cost effective (not to be confused with cheap) means of putting power into your Civic. When done reliably expect NICE gains that will destroy any N/A build every single time for fraction of the cost of a good N/A build-period.

A stock D-series block (rods) can handle 200-220 horsepower safely before you have to consider building the block up (a little less for the D15X).
A stock B-series block (rods) can handle 300-320 horsepower.

NOTE!!! PSI don't mean ****! In oversimplified terms it's the volume of air that your turbo can move that counts. Therefore the CHOICE OF TURBO is the main factor that will dictate what horsepower you will be able to reach. ANYONE, and i mean ANYONE that tells you something like "I only want to push about 7 or 8 PSI" or "You should be safe with 10PSI on a stock engine" is an absolute IDIOT because they don't know what they are talking about!!! Run away from them. Fast.

A word on Ebay kits. These are a crap shoot. You have a 50/50 chance of actually getting a decent turbo. Do you feel lucky?

NOTE 2!!! You CANNOT just bolt on a turbo kit. You have to upgrade the fuel system, install some type of engine management system (Hondata, Neptune) and get street/dyno tuned by someone that knows what they are doing. A VAFC/SAFC is NOT a tuning device. Maybe 15 years ago, but not today. THE TUNE IS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU NEED TO DO. IF you cannot afford to get it tuned and think running a "good basemap" is sufficient, you might as well just save your money and go on a cruise.
Note 3!!! If you really truly plan on going turbo in the future do not invest in any fancy intake or header. You cannot use these on a turbo build like you can with a supercharger. Unless you plan on selling it later, you're wasting your hard earned money.
Note 4!!! If you don't care about learning to boost the right way or even how boost even works, and only want to go fast and impress your friends, then my suggestion is to NOT waste anyone's time asking about turbo kits and just buy a crap-shoot kit off of Ebay. SOME of us like to do this the right way.

General things to know before boosting.
Pick your power goal first. NOT PSI!!!
Know what turbo can flow enough CFM to get you to that power goal easily.
Know what sized injectors will flow enough fuel to get you to your power goals with enough headroom to spare.
Ramhorn manifolds are NOT needed for low power goals. People pushing 250hp with a ramhorn/topmount/etc. are just full of it. A log or a cast manifold is more than adequate.
Headwork is not needed and wasteful on a stock bottom end.

Boosting a Civic - http://sportcompactcar.automotive.co...ost/index.html
Here's a good guide on how to pick your turbo setup and how to install it. It's a little dated. - http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
Parts List - http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=42034
Installation Guide - https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/complete-how-turbocharge-your-honda-rep-ing-hypnotik-speed-1263795/

D-series F/I dynos (for those that ever doubt D-series can make power)
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...ostcount=14290
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...ostcount=14284
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...ostcount=14285
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...ostcount=14148

I've seen a lot of people asking about building a turbo kit. I didn't see anything like a chart out that provided a quick visual reference out there so I made a little window shopping guide for easy reference!
Dumptube, oil lines, charge piping, intercooler, couplers, clamps, etc.
Upgrade Clutch to hold the new power!
Get real engine management - Hondata, Neptune AEM, <CROME>
Gauges to monitor your engine - Oil pressure, Boost/Vac, Wideband
ARP headstuds!!!
Upgrade the fuel system (injectors/pump)!!!.

Parts list based (in other words copied) off of kits offered by Go-Autoworks. (May not be current.)
Why are Greddy and Edelbrock not listed here? Greddy kits are no longer made and Edelbrock kits are overpriced IMO.

Supercharger
I have NO experience with these other than there is a myth floating around that they are more reliable than a turbo application. This might have been true about 15 or so years ago when people were running FMUs and Missing links to modify their fuel systems, but the hobby has progressed MUCH since then. Today this belief absolutely has no merit.
I welcome any input anyone has on these.
Here's the JRSC thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2A-official-jrsc-thread%2A%2A%2A-1214810/

Nitrous.
Who wants to keep refilling a bottle if you're not on the track? I also have no experience in this arena but here's a link to the official Nitrous thread in the Forced Induction forum.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2A-official-nitrous-thread%2A%2A%2A-2119397/

NATURALLY ASPIRATED BUILDS
A great way to go a little faster and empty your bank account doing it (IMO).
D-Series
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/ultimate-sleeper-engine-d15z1-build-1670633/
Dyno You'll be sad when you read the low HP numbers you get because you somehow think an N/A build is more reliable.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...postcount=3526
The SOHC All Motor thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1771904

B-Series
How to Build a reliable LS-VTEC/B20VTEC- https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1676914

SUSPENSION ('cause you can't go fast if your suspension is crap)

First word of advice. DO NOT LOWER YOUR CAR ON SRINGS/COILOVERS WHILE USING STOCK SHOCKS!!!
You will eventually blow the shocks. Even on a relatively mild drop. Anyone that tells you that they have done it and it's "okay" are either REALLY lucky or are really just cheap bastards that cannot afford a real setup OR uninformed/inexperienced people that wouldn't know a real suspension setup if I gave it to them. Suspension SEEMS like the most simple upgrade you can make but in fact there are a lot of factors, like geometry, spring rates, damping, etc., that play a major part in it.

Note!!! You cannot dump your car and have a smooth ride. The lower you go the higher the spring rate you will need to keep from bottoming out and the more stiff your ride will be. If you don't know what the term "spring rate" means then you aren't ready to upgrade your suspension. If you don't know what spring rates are suitable for your style of driving you CANNOT know what suspension setup you need to purchase.

DO NOT CUT SPRINGS!!!! I don't care WHAT your redneck hot rod muscle car friends and family tell you. It's UNSAFE and lets everyone know how friggin' cheap/broke/stupid you really are. Sad thing is that I've read about experienced people doing it even though they know better. Sad.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2913258&page=2

Springs
Fallicy: "A spring is just a spring".
You hear this once in a while but nothing could be farther from the truth. If you think that your $35 set of off-brand/no brand springs are of the same quality as a set of springs from a company that is dedicated to to producing quality product then, by all means, stop reading now and get the cheap stuff. I cannot recommend any particular brand because I have never used lowering springs. I will go out on a limb and throw the name Eibach out there though. Solid company with a great reputation. H&R is another. The only thing I do know is that you will never get and even height all around and you're pretty much stuck with whatever height it is the springs give you. If you go this route as it may be cheaper try to get spring rates that suit you.

Shocks
Like I said previously, don't lower your car on stock shocks or OEM replacement shocks. I used to be under the belief that a "mild drop" of 1-1.5" would be okay since that's what was going around on the forums and in the magazines. There is even some self-proclaimed "expert" that boldly states that shocks cannot be blown!!! THIS IS OBVIOUSLY WRONG!!! The act of lowering by itself doesn't blow the shock. Neither does driving them lowered. But all it takes is one good pothole, speedbump, curb, median, etc. and that shock is gone. Ask me how I know. Stock/OEM replacement shocks were never designed to operate at anything but their stock height.

Coilover Sleeves & Strut/Shock Combo
Koni + Ground Control - This seems to be the unanimous HANDS DOWN choice when going this route.
Progress CS-II - I personally run these. EXCELLENT product. People tend to shy away from them in part because you have to reuse the stock top hats/perches (lazy) or they are under the false assumption that a "full" coilover that can "preload" is better. Make note; It's false info and most of these people don't even know what preload is and don't know how to adjust their "full" coilovers with "48 levels of adjustment" in the first place.
Note!!! These are wonderful coilovers and give you an automatic 1" drop due to the shortened shock body BUT they are not designed to slam your car. Be warned.

Disclaimer: Function & Form Type 1 seem to be a popular choice (with all the uninformed fanboys that buy these strictly because it's what their "boys" are rocking or they heard they were good.) but overall performance goes to the CS II's for entry level coilovers. If you must ride slammed then get the F&Fs and when you grow up you can upgrade to a real suspension. Can't speak to ride quality or customizable spring rates though. Skunk2, Blox, D2, K-Sport, Blackworks, Godspeed, etc. are pretty much all the same stuff and are really only recommended for anyone that is only interested in hardparking and following trends.
AMR - Pricey but they can totally build a shock 100% tailored to your needs with springs rates you specify. This will be my next purchase when I upgrade.

General (non-technical) guide to picking suspension components.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/click-here-all-you-curious-about-suspension-setups-their-costs-reliability-2967499/

Spring rates.
What spring rates should I get? No one can really answer this question as it is all subjective. Subjective as in how much your spine can take a beating before it shoots out of the top of your head.
The sweet spot for spring rates seems to be about 400-450lbs front and 300-350lbs rear for about a 1.5-2" drop. Any lower than that and you simply need to increase the spring rates. Problem with that? The lower you go the rougher your ride will be.
WORD OF ADVICE!!! Don't ANYONE try to sell you that **** that they can ride slammed and still have, what they call, a comfortable ride. Chances are these people HAVE NO CLUE what comfortable is or just don't care.
Bigger one up front and smaller/none in the rear = understeer. Bigger in back, smaller/none in front = oversteer. Learn which one is beneficial to your style of driving. Same as sway bars.

Sway Bars
Here's what I know. Bigger one up front and smaller/none in the rear = understeer. Bigger in back, smaller/none in front = oversteer. Learn which one is beneficial to your style of driving.

What suspension setup do I, grumblemarc, personally run with? As of writing this; Progress CSIIs, 1.5" drop with a 350f/250r with a 22mm swaybar, Password:JDM spherical Teflon coated endlinks, an original ASR subframe brace with Skunk2 LCAs with the red upgraded bushings coated with that poly lube and red beauty washers (which have NOTHING to do with handling) with longer LCA bolts to fit. Damn this thing handles!!!

COOLING
Not really needed for a stock setup. But if your rad is on it's last legs then go for it.
I personally run this setup by GoAutoworks with their shroud and a slimfan from http://slimfan.com (because it's plug and play and I hate hacking wires) for my boosted D. Some say it's overkill. I say "why risk it?"
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/12sialras.html

Note!!! You can get one of these cheaper on Ebay ($50) but I have never found one that the neck was the proper size for the D-series radiator hoses. Ever try slipping a D-series hose over a B-series neck? They are all made for B-series and the stock hoses are a BITCH to get on (if you even can). People have said that you can use the B-series hoses and just snug them down real tight but I think this is a half-assed approach and would seem to be prone to leaks.
Note 2!!! If you get one of these aluminum rads and only a slim fan you may see WORSE cooling performance. Why? It's all in the shroud. It helps get the air where it needs to go. Even with lower CFM applications.
Note 3!!! If you get one of these and use the stock fan/shroud your overflow tank most likely will no longer fit in the stock location. Be warned.

EXHAUST
Sound levels-https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2907847 or check out Youtube for sound clips.
Horsepower - Not really a factor on N/A setups.
If you are going boost then I'd recommend a 3" exhaust. Proven to make power. Which setup to get at his power level? Have one fabricated. Kteller and one other company make pre-fabbed ready to weld kits.

That's all for now.

Former User

Excellent resource. I created a brand new section (see New Section 4) in the FAQs sticky for this type of helpful thread. It is the first addition to this new section. Thanks.

CrazedEG

cool thread

94EG8

I sincerely hope this cuts down on the amount of "I just bought a civic, how do I make it faster threads"

Good job

Swifty92

For a Great Naturally Aspirated build you could use Bam-Bams "How to Build a reliable lsvtec/B20vtec" It is one of the many, best info here on H-T. I referred to it many times an used his build on my own car and absolutely love it. Good stuff to pass on to the next enthusiast.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1676914

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Added. Thanks.

Mr.bucket213

I would definely go for a turbo vs n/a because is better way to gain power

hyperblu

I don't want to spend money to make my civic fast. I will stick with ebay, sir.
Good post.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Updated with D-series turbo dynos.

JDM-Punk

hey i just bought a civic how much horsepower will i get with a intake i need to beat all the other street racers around here! JK!

great write up from what i skimmed through hopefully it will help cut down on all the threads like what i wrote above

ouch... just noticed most of this is hella old, owells

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

It's ongoing.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Needed. Complete swap guides-all engines all chassis. Preferably with the pics still intact. The one I have for the GSR swap is dead.

Steezer

+1

Jdubbs6101

Good write up don't forget to remove weight too. Adding horsepower will make a car faster in a straight line. Removing weight will make a car faster everywhere. To add speed add lightness - Colin chapman

redm3turbo

Rust removes weight, and therefore makes you go faster. - Redm3turbo

:D

Great post / however without all those posts of what swap/how do I go faster/should I swap/should I turbo/whats faster etc/ we wouldnt have any posts!!!

Jdubbs6101

[QUOTE=redm3turbo;46531020]Rust removes weight, and therefore makes you go faster. - Redm3turbo

:D

Lol do rust holes around the rear wheels help air flow to the rear brakes too?

SleepEX

good to know

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Website I used. B-series into 5th Gen Civic. Looks like it's down now, but all archived on archive.org in perpetuity, thankfully.

http://web.archive.org/web/201102210...cswap/swap.php

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Thank you sir.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

What great thread Marc!

I'm sure that was a lot of work, nice job!

udedmario

Cool thread man, learned a thing or two.

sfar785

just bookmarked this to show a few buddies who ask me the same questions over and over....good writeup Grumble

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys.

Steezer

Good Find

RunNoelRun

Good reading