Okay, Iím sure this has been covered before, but I would like to have a fresh topic for this. In a recent IM with a friend here who bought a GS-R swap for his 1992 hatchback, we talked about him doing his own swap. Like him Iím sure that most of us were intimidated by our first swap, but I hope this thread can help cure any anxieties that people might have about doing their own swap.
Iíll try my best, but I could forget a thing or two here, so donít take this as a end-all swap guide.
Hereís how I see it:
Youíre going to pay a shop to do the swap. This could be anywhere from $500-$1,200 in labor. I work at a shop and there are some people that NEED to pay us to do the work, but if you have confidence and some common sense I promise you can do it.
Rather than pay for labor, you could use some of that cash to but a really nice toolset and a nice hydro jack too. Rent an engine hoist and possibly airtools and compressor and you're done a LOT cheaper than paying a shop - you KEEP the handtools and jack too!
I recommend any toolset like Craftsmen or Husky, whatever. Get the really nice ďMechanicsí ToolsetĒ even if it costs a few hundred dollars. Remember, you KEEP these tools forever and they will help you countless times. I got a 250 pc. Craftsman set with a toolbox for lie $250.00 I think. Also remember METRIC
Get a hydro jack too - $100 sounds about right?
There are other tools that you will need too in order to swap successfully. Iíll TRY my best to list them - Iím sure you guys can add some more.
32mm socket for axle nuts
Prybar for axles and various deeds
Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out
Nice sturdy hammer (obvious reasons, right?)
****s (donít laugh - the wire-cutter things guys
Cotter Pins (not a tool really)
Soldering iron for securing wiring
And fluids too:
However much motor oil your motor takes (usually 4.25, right?)
Tranny fluid of your choice (I prefer Honda MTF 3 qts. - really takes about 2.5)
P/S fluid if applicable
So the labor part - not really in too much particular order for the first group of steps:
1. Drain coolant and tranny fluid You can pull the radiator out too to have more room
Disconnect all that would keep the engine from coming out:
2. All plugs on the engine harness that plug into the chassis harness
3. All hoses that connect as well. Upper and Lower radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.
4. Header from exhaust
5. Shift linkage
A. To get that damned linkage pin, try this:
B. Pull the boot back from the shifter where it connects to the tranny. The boost exposes a clip that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. Then youíll see the infamous linkage pin exposed. This is where youíll need the right sized punch to get it out. It has to be small enough to slide in the shift rod, but big enough to push the pin out.
C. If you got pics of this bastard boot, please post them up!
6. Pull the axles out - how you ask? Iíll post the detailed instructions as soon as I find my old post about that here.
A. Here's how to pull the axles:
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-*** socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench again or rachet
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.
1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the ****s and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-*** hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing
If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.
Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!
7. Undo the front and rear motor mounts.
8. Secure the engine hoist - thereís a bracket on the tranny to hook the chain to, and a place on the back of the head that accepts a solid 14mm bolt to hook the chain to as well. This is a balnced way to hoist it up
Others may have other options too
9. After securing the motor, undo the rest of the mounts and YANK THAT BITCH OUT!
10. As the We Todd Did crew would do, sit back and drink some beer
So, how do you put the new motor back in? Same as the old one came out, and on the 1992-1995 Civics use the CIVIC mounts except for the timing cover driversí mount. I suggest Energy inserts for the other mounts
Wring? This has always been my weakness. Although it ainít hard, I just get weird when wires come up. Iím sure others here have good advise and links. I see posts about pinouts and wiring, so how about we make this one a great place to find out exactly how it goes?
This is really a rough guide - it just shows you how easy the swap really is though, and others feel free to add advice/info too please!
Iím going to bed now, so if someone else wants to do a detailed install, feel free!
And donít forget the wiring!
[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 5:41 AM 2/19/2002]
[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 6:07 AM 2/19/2002]