stock flange, ill have my machinists bang me out a TB flange. Stock bolt pattern but a 3" hole.
For AL, basically get a nice ball on the tungsten.
Then, for 1/8", Id put the amps at around 90. Get a nice puddle worked up, and start dipping/moving. practice a bunch of different welds, ie, lap, but vertical, etc. THEN once you think you have it, move on to your project. Theres nothing like screwing up a $500 core

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres nothing like screwing up a $500 core </TD></TR></TABLE>

And there in lays my concern..

thanks cody, cant wait to give it a try. Would you say mild steel is easier? does AL have any funny charachteristics? (sp)


Rob

 

with steels, if yorue too hot, it comes out black, but itll still weld just fine. With AL, if youre too hot, itll bubble and puss, and wont weld for ****! this is why I say make sure you are confident before attempting something worth anything. I STILL dont know if I could trust myself with someone else's aluminum. Id probably be OK, but the thought of havign to replace it if I fucked up

 

Aluminum will also come through the back.. if you over heat a spot it will just fall out.

 

You also have to learn to back off the heat as you go cause the aluminum takes more heat to start but gets heat soaked as you weld and doesn't require as much heat to keep going. Pulse is the way to go on aluminum, reduces the heat input and gives you less chance to mess up plus the pulse helps to give you a rythmn to dip the filler and make more uniform beads.

 

how are you guys pulsing on machines that dont have a pulser option on them? or are you?

-Brian W.

Im working on a 4 pt. Strut bar for our 87 Porsche 911, ill post pics when im done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSiTurbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how are you guys pulsing on machines that dont have a pulser option on them? or are you?

-Brian W.

Im working on a 4 pt. Strut bar for our 87 Porsche 911, ill post pics when im done </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think they're pulsing the foot pedal .. from ewhat i can see in my tig video


ok and how can you really tell if you're overheating it ? i welded some schedul 40 last night stainless, its still slightly rainbow but not shiny more towards darker/black what amps are you guys using to weld this stuff ? i was welding crap aroudn 120-140 amps ( i think its too much)

BTW i love this thread

oh yeah well .. hrmm how about everyone share ... their voltage and weld technique on pipes 16 gauge. what type of filler they use etcc ..

whats your voltages when welding ss schedule40 ? and what tugnsten size .. im using 3./32nd right now

whats the difference when using 4% thoirated tungsten &gt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Overblown-Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good. I need to quit my job so I can spend all day making fun stuff.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHA no doubt man. I am using up alot of vaction time just to screw around at home in the garage. I even have to go as far as NOT tellingthe wife that i took specific days off or she'll leave the kids with me and not take them to daycare, lol.

IM looks good Cody. I need get goin gon AL, i tried a few weeks ago and i think the material was just too dirty it just wasn't sticking to it.
And again i'll have to have Jake come over and take pics so I can share all my goodeis.


Modified by hulkhb at 9:22 PM 11/6/2003

 

For stainless I normally set the max at 90 but rarely ever go full throttle. I would guess I am at about 75-85 max.. Use less heat.. Get closer.. Only heat it enough to make the puddle flow. I had the same problem when I started.. I would blast the hell out of it. They should look copper color when its done right. I use 1/16 rod and 3/32 tung

 

cool imma try that on my next manifold im makin for my friend !!! score 1 for the DIY welding team baby woot !

 

when deciding on what kind of amperage to use the general rule is 1 amp per .001" of metal thickness. 1/8"=.125 inches so 125 amps. the problem when you start out is that you want to go slow and at 125 amps you can't afford to go slow. if you weld too far below the recommended range you won't be getting full penetration welds and although they will probably be plenty strong for what you are trying to accomplish they may not be as strong as they could be.

 

Here is an update for the collector I posted.. I should have some finished pics saturday sometime.

 

overblown...

is that 5 cyl. ? or half a V10 setup? What make is it?

-Brian W.

 

I'd have to guess its a volvo cause i don't know many manufacturer's making 5 cyls.

 

hmmm....5 cylinder and 2 valves per cylinder. Sounds like something an old school volvo or audi engineer would do. I know that chevy's coming out with a 5 cylinder turbo and non-turbo version for their colorado this year

 

yeah its for an old audi quatro. The prototype of this one made 290hp. Javad at http://www.034-efi.com will be the distributor, its his design.

 

Audi......? i guess i shoulda read pg. 14 first, lol.

Looks nice man

 

My first 5-1 collector How convenient, just in time for 5-1's




Yes, this was a MAJOR PITA.

 

tigs fun .. but i find it a lil tiring

2nd log style .. 1st tig welded one

 

(more filler) If anything you want a lil bulge over the surface of the two adjoining pipes, but dips arent optimal

 

Looks pretty good though..

Tink.. WTF is that? Mine was flat because of the space constraints on the older engines.. Did you plan for the one to be kinda cockeyed off the side? I am thinking of doing something similar for a 20v setup. More room on those.

 

Tinker - for a 5 tube collector, why not make it like a standard 4 cyl collector, but with a little more angle and put #5 in the center?

I guess because of the huge pita cutting the collector tubes would be at that point.. cutting on at least 3 axis.. ugh..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phoenix GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tinker - for a 5 tube collector, why not make it like a standard 4 cyl collector, but with a little more angle and put #5 in the center?

I guess because of the huge pita cutting the collector tubes would be at that point.. cutting on at least 3 axis.. ugh..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that it would be next to impossible to get the torch in there. I guess you could do it if you pulled the tungston out all the way, but then your gas probably wouldnt sheild properly and it would oxidize.

Rob

 

This is one welder (gas) helping out another (tig).

I'm making a welding table since I currently have to stand up when I weld. That's not a problem for a gas torch, but I prefer to sit when using a foot pedal. These are the casters and caster caps. The caps have the nut welded on and will be welded on to the bottom of each table leg.





4 psi acetylene
5 psi oxygen
#2 Victor tip
3/32" mild steel filler rod

Sonny

 

some pics of ffgeons (jon) beads on our school project