New Welding Thread!
I didn't think wiring up a 230V outlet was an easy task?
Also, I've heard that the better 110V welders are great for most smaller tasks......
About that ARC welder w/ the TIG attachment: you say you need all this extra junk, but the guy I talked to said he used an ARC box, the TIG gun, and an argon tank.....that's it.
Also, I've heard that the better 110V welders are great for most smaller tasks......
About that ARC welder w/ the TIG attachment: you say you need all this extra junk, but the guy I talked to said he used an ARC box, the TIG gun, and an argon tank.....that's it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't think wiring up a 230V outlet was an easy task?
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its not. to get 230 from one end of my house to another and 2 regular 110 outlets in my garage its 2000$. call an electrician it sucks
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its not. to get 230 from one end of my house to another and 2 regular 110 outlets in my garage its 2000$. call an electrician it sucks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't think wiring up a 230V outlet was an easy task?
Also, I've heard that the better 110V welders are great for most smaller tasks......
About that ARC welder w/ the TIG attachment: you say you need all this extra junk, but the guy I talked to said he used an ARC box, the TIG gun, and an argon tank.....that's it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, there is no compairson in weld quality between my old miller 300 and ANY 110v machine. If you can get a dialarc for $200 or whatever you said buy it. Buy a used torch and a used petal. Nothing can beat it for the price. But, if you have to buy an arc and an add on tig module (any decient one) + the accesories it gets pricy.
Most people have 230 wired in their house or garage in the fuse box. Just setup up a plug and make a long 10gauge 230v extension cord if its not exactly where you want it. And pop in a heaver breaker if you need to
However, if your going to run a high amp (250+) arc/tig power supply for extended amounts of time then upgrades may be needed to keep it safe.
Also, I've heard that the better 110V welders are great for most smaller tasks......
About that ARC welder w/ the TIG attachment: you say you need all this extra junk, but the guy I talked to said he used an ARC box, the TIG gun, and an argon tank.....that's it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, there is no compairson in weld quality between my old miller 300 and ANY 110v machine. If you can get a dialarc for $200 or whatever you said buy it. Buy a used torch and a used petal. Nothing can beat it for the price. But, if you have to buy an arc and an add on tig module (any decient one) + the accesories it gets pricy.
Most people have 230 wired in their house or garage in the fuse box. Just setup up a plug and make a long 10gauge 230v extension cord if its not exactly where you want it. And pop in a heaver breaker if you need to
However, if your going to run a high amp (250+) arc/tig power supply for extended amounts of time then upgrades may be needed to keep it safe.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,568
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From: Filthadelphia Area, PA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its not. to get 230 from one end of my house to another and 2 regular 110 outlets in my garage its 2000$. call an electrician it sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is actually pretty easy physically. 220V single phase is 3 wires, two hots and a ground. You use a double pole breaker, i.e. Double pole one side of the breaker is one hot, the other side of the breaker is the other hot. The third wire is the ground it goes to the block in the box with all the other grounds. The position of the ground is the only one you need to get right with 220 single phase. I just went through this in my new shop. You need to use a wire that is thick enough to support the amperage that your welder will pull as well as the correct amperage breaker. In my opinion what you are paying for when you hire an electrician is the knowledge of local and federal codes that you wiring needs to be up to to be legal/safe. 110 outlets are on the same difficulty level.
its not. to get 230 from one end of my house to another and 2 regular 110 outlets in my garage its 2000$. call an electrician it sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is actually pretty easy physically. 220V single phase is 3 wires, two hots and a ground. You use a double pole breaker, i.e. Double pole one side of the breaker is one hot, the other side of the breaker is the other hot. The third wire is the ground it goes to the block in the box with all the other grounds. The position of the ground is the only one you need to get right with 220 single phase. I just went through this in my new shop. You need to use a wire that is thick enough to support the amperage that your welder will pull as well as the correct amperage breaker. In my opinion what you are paying for when you hire an electrician is the knowledge of local and federal codes that you wiring needs to be up to to be legal/safe. 110 outlets are on the same difficulty level.
Theres a shop around here that is selling the JET HVBS-56 horizontal bandsaw for 280 out the door. I think its a pretty good price. I dont have enough money for the ones that runs with coolent. He said that this machine is more then I need. I will be trying to make headers, turbo manifolds, etc. What you guys think bout this machine. thanks, heres the link of the bandsaw
http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/JE....html
http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/JE....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't think wiring up a 230V outlet was an easy task?
Also, I've heard that the better 110V welders are great for most smaller tasks......
About that ARC welder w/ the TIG attachment: you say you need all this extra junk, but the guy I talked to said he used an ARC box, the TIG gun, and an argon tank.....that's it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everybody thinks that messing with electricity is hard but its actually really REALLY easy. The reason why it can cost a lot for a sparky to hook up a 220 outlet is because he has to get permits and **** to cover his *** on his insurance. Also, they have overhead to pay. Let's say your house is even 80ft long and 30ft high. Your total run would probably be about 200ft of wire. Forget home depot and lowes or any other chain store because they will RAPE the hell out of you on wire and not ever kiss you goodbye. Go to an electrical supply store and tell them you want 200ft of 10 gauge "SO". SO is three insulated wires wrapped with more insulation to make one big wire. Its VERY flexible which makes it easy to run. Check your welder's owner's manual for what NEMA plug you have and tell the store you need that type of receptacle with a junction box and cover to fit it and you might as well buy your breaker there as well. All totalled this should NOT cost more than $100 bucks for this LONG *** run. Also, any competant electrician or I could make a run like this in about 3 hrs or less.
About the TIG setup that I described, the reason why I put all that extra "junk" in there is because if you ever do decide to weld something thick(EX: 1/4" aluminum) you WILL need a watercooled torch. The watercooler is optional. You can easily make one yourself with a 5 gallon bucket and a pump. The remote control is a must. I really can't seem to figure out why anyone would have a TIG setup and not have some kind of variable control....it just seems wrong
Also, I've heard that the better 110V welders are great for most smaller tasks......
About that ARC welder w/ the TIG attachment: you say you need all this extra junk, but the guy I talked to said he used an ARC box, the TIG gun, and an argon tank.....that's it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everybody thinks that messing with electricity is hard but its actually really REALLY easy. The reason why it can cost a lot for a sparky to hook up a 220 outlet is because he has to get permits and **** to cover his *** on his insurance. Also, they have overhead to pay. Let's say your house is even 80ft long and 30ft high. Your total run would probably be about 200ft of wire. Forget home depot and lowes or any other chain store because they will RAPE the hell out of you on wire and not ever kiss you goodbye. Go to an electrical supply store and tell them you want 200ft of 10 gauge "SO". SO is three insulated wires wrapped with more insulation to make one big wire. Its VERY flexible which makes it easy to run. Check your welder's owner's manual for what NEMA plug you have and tell the store you need that type of receptacle with a junction box and cover to fit it and you might as well buy your breaker there as well. All totalled this should NOT cost more than $100 bucks for this LONG *** run. Also, any competant electrician or I could make a run like this in about 3 hrs or less.
About the TIG setup that I described, the reason why I put all that extra "junk" in there is because if you ever do decide to weld something thick(EX: 1/4" aluminum) you WILL need a watercooled torch. The watercooler is optional. You can easily make one yourself with a 5 gallon bucket and a pump. The remote control is a must. I really can't seem to figure out why anyone would have a TIG setup and not have some kind of variable control....it just seems wrong
the "weave" weld technique...move your torch in a open "u" motion or back and forth weaving motion, kinda like your drawing a bunch of open "u"s down a line without lifting your pen/pencile! dab your filler rod twice pr. "u" motion, one at each end! what you are doing is overlapping 2 welds (or weaving them together)over eachother! and so on...
stainless is very tricky to get rite if it has black or gray with no color it was welded to hot and willnot be as strong of a weld, you allways want to try for good color,gold,blues
hrmm i think i may have the wrong rod? The grey colored welds are with rod, nice gold/bluish is without, just fusion with no filler.(i know i need practice adding rod
) They were both done with the same heat. I was sold 316 rod for welding stainless. please anylize.



) They were both done with the same heat. I was sold 316 rod for welding stainless. please anylize. 


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSMu4ia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will give you $1600/shipped if I get to see that infamous shootout boxing match again!!!
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wtf??
</TD></TR></TABLE>wtf??



