Ive been told the older wagonvan rearends are better.

 

Thats very true mate, but there are a few problems (as ive learned from "rallysol's" build)

1) the wagon drivetrain is viscous coupled, so its always engaged

2) although the diff is stronger, the ratio is slightly off, so the viscous coupling gets hot, you need to run different tyre sizes to compensate..

its a swine too because i know the wagovan diff is alot stronger, its just not compatible with the b series transmission...

 

Another little update, if anyone is getting pissed with these little but often updates let me know!

Ive cleaned and installed the IM- will need to come off again to clean the swarf from inside and to weld on a couple of AN fittings...



Installed oil pressure switch, oil takeoff plate (for the dry sump feed) and the KS4 knock sensor..



also fabricated the throttle cable guide, the old one we made used the fitting on the manifold designed for left hand drive, with the throttle cable on the wrong side my old one was too flexible and crap.. The new one is alot stronger, and mounted in a decent place i drilled into the manifold, ill need to make sure there is plenty of PVC sealant on the bolts though...

 

I just want to see this beast running. WORK FASTER :D Love your build man, keep it up.

 

What intake manifold is that?

 

lol me too, ill work faster just for you mate!!! lol

 

its made by a company called hypertune in Australia, its a pre production version i managed to get- i dont think they went into production with it.. its a beauty too, there are internal trumpets on each runner..

 

Dude! from one insane driveway project to another, KEEP IT UP! got a youtube chanel?

keep it going

 

Thanks alot mate!!

Sorry i dont have a youtube channel, dont have any videos to share lol..

It blew up too soon after i finished the turbo conversion to actually enjoy it!

 

Woooo the belt for the dry sump pump arrived this morning!

Quickly fitted it and its a perfect fit and its all in alignment!





Just waiting for the cam belt goodies to arrive and then its a case of timing up the cams and finishing the assembly!

 

Well this little toy came today, its an ebay zinc plating kit, modified it a bit because it was a bit naff but its not too bad..

Need to get some distilled water before i can use it though.. But hopefully every single bolt which goes back into the engine will be cleaned and plated

 

Little progress today;

Decided to clean up and paint most of the engine brackets, and zinc plate the oil pump bolts and alternator bolts..

Well this little toy came today, its an ebay zinc plating kit, modified it a bit because it was a bit naff but its not too bad..

Need to get some distilled water before i can use it though.. But hopefully every single bolt which goes back into the engine will be cleaned and plated










Also received today, some may recognise it, as an Audi vacuum pump. Used on late model audis instead of running the brakes off the engine vacuum... Im using it because my engine wont pull vacuum with the anti lag running, this pump will be the sole source of vacuum, plus being Audi it has a very good record of operation..



Please ignore the bracket, im not happy with how it was going so i scrapped it, as you can see the pump mounts via rubber mounts on a spigot and on the inlet pipe, there is a little rubber patch on the bottom. I scrapped the audi mounts in favour of grommets..

Here is a pic of the engine as it stands! Cant wait for the cam belt to come, and then theres just a list of bolts to zinc plate before the block is ready... D

 

you will need to run a damper pulley
mabe you can use a ati with the oilpump gear on it
you will need to modify your oilpump braket
but its too risquy to run witout any damper
bearing will worn alot faster

you dont want it to break for a damper question

by the way nice project its look clean

 

Hey mate, what exactly is the damper designed to protect, the accessories (eg. alternator and oil pump) or the rotating assembly??

 

would it not be better to put the knock sesor more up top where it is near the combustion events? rather than down by the oil pan?

 

Yes the oem sensor is between cyls 2 and 3. Unfortunately the new sensor mounts through the middle but the oem hole is too big. Im going to need an adapter to mount it properly but its stand alone and the gain can be adjusted. I found it was very accurate when i used it before it blew up..

 

The crank pulley damper is designed to damp crankshaft harmonics. These are alleged to lead to metal fatigue and crank and rod bearing damage.

 

Thanks for that mate, im giong to have to look into it. The ATI one can fit a dry sump pump drive and i dont need to modify the oil pump mount- i can swap it with the engine in the car so im going to leave it until i can afford it.. At the moment im struggling trying to save for the respray

 

Really interesting build mate. Hope I get to see this out and about this year!

 

This is one build I will be following. Your car is truly one of a kind, I hope you post a video of this car once it's running.

 

How are you going to hook up the fuel pressure regulator without engine vacuum?

 

Of course ill post a video mate- believe me ill deff record this lol


The fuel pressure regulator vacuum line restricts the fuel pressure at idle, to allow better idling.
The engine will only have zero vacuum when the ALS is active, when its turned off, the FPR will act as normal at idle... Itll still be connected to the IM

 

Post up some feedback when you get some results from that plating kit. I've been looking into getting a setup for a while now, that post kind of re-sparked my curiosity...

 

A bit more work today,

Decided to move the knock sensor closer to the stock location. Unfortunately the original thread for the knock sensor is an M12 whereas mine was an M6.. So i took a spare OEM M12 bolt, drilled and tapped it through the shank and bolted my knock sensor to it. Now the aftermarket knock sensor sits nicely in the correct place as shown below.



Did a bit more plating, the disc is the ring which stops the cam belt walking off the lower pulley, as soon as it arrives ill be fitting that..



and the thermostat housing bolts




The plating kit is really good for what it is.. but the passivate chemical is pretty nasty...

 

Yeah I'm debating if thats something that I'm really comfortable with having in my garage. I don't have any kids around that could get into it, just a couple of cats that don't/won't go near the garage anyway. But I've messed around with plating in the past and that stuff is nasty and kind of a liability. I've been eyeing some of the kits that Caswell sells (www.caswellplating.com).