AWD EJ2 Build
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Sorry for the absence all..
Ive been completely rushed off my feet recently.. Plus i managed to forget my password for HT so yeah...
Not much has happened on the project, not much at all.. However, i have been offered a job working at Williams F1.. Were still totting up the finances as my wife wont be relocating with me, but it looks like im going- and taking the civic- need to do something with my evenings
Ive been completely rushed off my feet recently.. Plus i managed to forget my password for HT so yeah...
Not much has happened on the project, not much at all.. However, i have been offered a job working at Williams F1.. Were still totting up the finances as my wife wont be relocating with me, but it looks like im going- and taking the civic- need to do something with my evenings
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Im not sure id be allowed to post pictures lol
The job is "prototype and test electronics engineer"..
Basically i will be working in the prototype and test area, where i will be needed to build new rigs to test new systems.. The rigs can be anything from hydraulic to KERS testing, ill also need to look after the maintanance of the existing test equipment and sensors..
The job is "prototype and test electronics engineer"..
Basically i will be working in the prototype and test area, where i will be needed to build new rigs to test new systems.. The rigs can be anything from hydraulic to KERS testing, ill also need to look after the maintanance of the existing test equipment and sensors..
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Thanks mate..
Ive been a bit busy this week working on S2000 and Coil On Plug converters but ive been taking delivery of a few bits..
Ive managed to sell my FULL-RACE intercooler and exchanged it for 2 smaller ones.. These will be mounted in the rear wings, directly against the opening of the scoop.
The benefit is lower CofG, better intercooling ability, and intercooler exit will provide cooling for the engine.. The downside is a slightly longer induction path so the antilag will need to be well implemented..
Ive been a bit busy this week working on S2000 and Coil On Plug converters but ive been taking delivery of a few bits..
Ive managed to sell my FULL-RACE intercooler and exchanged it for 2 smaller ones.. These will be mounted in the rear wings, directly against the opening of the scoop.
The benefit is lower CofG, better intercooling ability, and intercooler exit will provide cooling for the engine.. The downside is a slightly longer induction path so the antilag will need to be well implemented..
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
I thought id take a moment to post some pics up, plus i have someone to thank...
Here are the new intercoolers;

and thanks to a chap on a UK forum, Marin who made me these;

The larger of the 3 is a spacer i designed which allows the slave cylinder in the front diff to pass its load into the aluminium base. I didnt like the idea off all the load passing through 3 small plastic flanges so hopefully this will help.
The other 2 items are the same, because the crv rear wheel bearings are so much thicker than the civic ones, the hub doesnt extend all the way through. Tightening the axle nut would crush the wheel bearing and cease it up. These are shims to allow the hub to pass through the whole thickness of the hub.
Unfortunately i dont have the ability to do turning or large scale milling. So i have to rely on people giving up their time to help me. I have had quite a few parts made for me by such people lending their time, two such people are Martin and Marin from the Civiclife forum in the UK- i wouldnt have been able to address these problems without their help so thanks so much to them!
Here are the new intercoolers;

and thanks to a chap on a UK forum, Marin who made me these;

The larger of the 3 is a spacer i designed which allows the slave cylinder in the front diff to pass its load into the aluminium base. I didnt like the idea off all the load passing through 3 small plastic flanges so hopefully this will help.
The other 2 items are the same, because the crv rear wheel bearings are so much thicker than the civic ones, the hub doesnt extend all the way through. Tightening the axle nut would crush the wheel bearing and cease it up. These are shims to allow the hub to pass through the whole thickness of the hub.
Unfortunately i dont have the ability to do turning or large scale milling. So i have to rely on people giving up their time to help me. I have had quite a few parts made for me by such people lending their time, two such people are Martin and Marin from the Civiclife forum in the UK- i wouldnt have been able to address these problems without their help so thanks so much to them!
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
The transmission is a honda crv 5 speed, with the standard transfer case. I had a billet adapter plate made which allows the transfer case to be rotated forward..
The engine sits in the mid configuration as opposed to rear (behind the axle). The only delta to the standard weight is the prop shaft, front diff, front shafts and hydraulics.. Compared to the ability to put down all the power the engine creates i believe that the weight penalty is worth it..
The engine sits in the mid configuration as opposed to rear (behind the axle). The only delta to the standard weight is the prop shaft, front diff, front shafts and hydraulics.. Compared to the ability to put down all the power the engine creates i believe that the weight penalty is worth it..
The transmission is a honda crv 5 speed, with the standard transfer case. I had a billet adapter plate made which allows the transfer case to be rotated forward..
The engine sits in the mid configuration as opposed to rear (behind the axle). The only delta to the standard weight is the prop shaft, front diff, front shafts and hydraulics.. Compared to the ability to put down all the power the engine creates i believe that the weight penalty is worth it..
The engine sits in the mid configuration as opposed to rear (behind the axle). The only delta to the standard weight is the prop shaft, front diff, front shafts and hydraulics.. Compared to the ability to put down all the power the engine creates i believe that the weight penalty is worth it..
do you thing that the tranny and the transfer can handle the power of your engine?
it not better only rwd configuration and you can set all the weight distribution to increase the rear traction?
again, congratulation about your car!!!
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Ill try and get a picture of it- its an awkward position to take a photo of so i dont have one yet..
Too much rearward weight and it affects the handling balance, whereas its true that weight over the driven wheels will result in better traction off the line having more of a 50/50 distribution allows the car to turn quickly. Moving the engine from in front of the front axle to in front of the rear axle should make it better- even with the added weight of the 4wd..
The gearbox will not take the full power of the engine, so i will go through a few- this is why i havnt modified the actual gearbox parts, only replaced them, so its easier to do the same to another one.. The 4wd computer will be able to limit torque to the front wheels to prevent damage to the transfer case and front diff, as well as allow the rear wheels to spin slightly.. I cant allow the 4wd to take all the torque of the engine in a low gear otherwise it will kill it.. Its mainly to aid putting power down on track and out of corners.
Ive been looking into the possibility of using an aftermarket gearset.. Ive heard that the crv box is based on the H series box. If i could find a transmission dealer who makes a h series kit who would be willing to help me out, it would be nice to see if there are any dog kits compatible with my transmission..
Too much rearward weight and it affects the handling balance, whereas its true that weight over the driven wheels will result in better traction off the line having more of a 50/50 distribution allows the car to turn quickly. Moving the engine from in front of the front axle to in front of the rear axle should make it better- even with the added weight of the 4wd..
The gearbox will not take the full power of the engine, so i will go through a few- this is why i havnt modified the actual gearbox parts, only replaced them, so its easier to do the same to another one.. The 4wd computer will be able to limit torque to the front wheels to prevent damage to the transfer case and front diff, as well as allow the rear wheels to spin slightly.. I cant allow the 4wd to take all the torque of the engine in a low gear otherwise it will kill it.. Its mainly to aid putting power down on track and out of corners.
Ive been looking into the possibility of using an aftermarket gearset.. Ive heard that the crv box is based on the H series box. If i could find a transmission dealer who makes a h series kit who would be willing to help me out, it would be nice to see if there are any dog kits compatible with my transmission..
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Time for a little update me thinks!
I received my new wheels yesterday. Fully custom, made by tunedwheels.com who have been excellent



(ignore the rust!)
I absolutely love banded steel wheels- ever since the old race cars i used to watch had them. Plus being banded it makes it alot easier (and cheaper) to specify custom offsets. These wheels were specified at 16" with perfect offsets to make the most of the room between the trailing arm and the extended wheel arches..
I think it looks stunning personally, the wheels are also alot lighter than i expected. Most likely as the tensile strength of steel allows the wheel to be thinner, also another thing that drew my attention. Having my 315mm 10 piston brakes on the front i was worried about clearance on 16" wheels. This isnt a problem with these because they have just as much space as my 17" alloys had originally
I received my new wheels yesterday. Fully custom, made by tunedwheels.com who have been excellent



(ignore the rust!)
I absolutely love banded steel wheels- ever since the old race cars i used to watch had them. Plus being banded it makes it alot easier (and cheaper) to specify custom offsets. These wheels were specified at 16" with perfect offsets to make the most of the room between the trailing arm and the extended wheel arches..
I think it looks stunning personally, the wheels are also alot lighter than i expected. Most likely as the tensile strength of steel allows the wheel to be thinner, also another thing that drew my attention. Having my 315mm 10 piston brakes on the front i was worried about clearance on 16" wheels. This isnt a problem with these because they have just as much space as my 17" alloys had originally
Ill try and get a picture of it- its an awkward position to take a photo of so i dont have one yet..
Too much rearward weight and it affects the handling balance, whereas its true that weight over the driven wheels will result in better traction off the line having more of a 50/50 distribution allows the car to turn quickly. Moving the engine from in front of the front axle to in front of the rear axle should make it better- even with the added weight of the 4wd..
The gearbox will not take the full power of the engine, so i will go through a few- this is why i havnt modified the actual gearbox parts, only replaced them, so its easier to do the same to another one.. The 4wd computer will be able to limit torque to the front wheels to prevent damage to the transfer case and front diff, as well as allow the rear wheels to spin slightly.. I cant allow the 4wd to take all the torque of the engine in a low gear otherwise it will kill it.. Its mainly to aid putting power down on track and out of corners.
Ive been looking into the possibility of using an aftermarket gearset.. Ive heard that the crv box is based on the H series box. If i could find a transmission dealer who makes a h series kit who would be willing to help me out, it would be nice to see if there are any dog kits compatible with my transmission..
Too much rearward weight and it affects the handling balance, whereas its true that weight over the driven wheels will result in better traction off the line having more of a 50/50 distribution allows the car to turn quickly. Moving the engine from in front of the front axle to in front of the rear axle should make it better- even with the added weight of the 4wd..
The gearbox will not take the full power of the engine, so i will go through a few- this is why i havnt modified the actual gearbox parts, only replaced them, so its easier to do the same to another one.. The 4wd computer will be able to limit torque to the front wheels to prevent damage to the transfer case and front diff, as well as allow the rear wheels to spin slightly.. I cant allow the 4wd to take all the torque of the engine in a low gear otherwise it will kill it.. Its mainly to aid putting power down on track and out of corners.
Ive been looking into the possibility of using an aftermarket gearset.. Ive heard that the crv box is based on the H series box. If i could find a transmission dealer who makes a h series kit who would be willing to help me out, it would be nice to see if there are any dog kits compatible with my transmission..
what do you thing about the crv (gearbox and tranny) because, i thinking to buy one in in colombia.
basic setup b20 vtec gt28 with a/c and steering.
what is the maximun power that the gearbox and the tranny can handle?
cheers!
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
I think the CRV transmission is okay, its a decent build in my opinion.. However i wouldnt even like to estimate the power handling capacity..
There are other people on here, Rallysol to name one who have put the transmission through its paces. Unfortunately until i run it i wont know how well it will hold up and i dont want to tell you that its great.. Ive assumed ill be replacing parts quite often on the box.. But im trying to limit the shock to the system by limiting torque to the front diff at low speeds (so no 4wd launches)..
Ill publish my findings though as soon as its on the road!
There are other people on here, Rallysol to name one who have put the transmission through its paces. Unfortunately until i run it i wont know how well it will hold up and i dont want to tell you that its great.. Ive assumed ill be replacing parts quite often on the box.. But im trying to limit the shock to the system by limiting torque to the front diff at low speeds (so no 4wd launches)..
Ill publish my findings though as soon as its on the road!
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Thanks very much- thats a nice thing to say..
I trial fitted the brakes and 10 pots into the wheels. They are a perfect fit, 2mm clearance..

A little update today. Ive done some work on the fuel cell / front diff .etc





I trial fitted the brakes and 10 pots into the wheels. They are a perfect fit, 2mm clearance..

A little update today. Ive done some work on the fuel cell / front diff .etc





Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
I know.. This is the problem with being in the UK and not having a garage to work in..
My plan in the next few weeks is to start at the rear of the car, tidy up all the welding and metalwork, and properly sort out out all the rust and dirt, then slowly work my way to the front- undersealing as well
My plan in the next few weeks is to start at the rear of the car, tidy up all the welding and metalwork, and properly sort out out all the rust and dirt, then slowly work my way to the front- undersealing as well
i would think firewall since i'm sure there will be absolutly no factory wiring in the car, keep them close enough to the dash since they run all of the gauges and warning lights. keep the length of wires to a minimum, then run the bundle for the ECU to the rear as desired
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
The computers are going to be scattered around the car.. There are alot of things to consider..
Such as the rear wing controller and the 4wd controller all use high frequency, high current switching. This will cause alot of stray electrical noise. As such they will need to be mounted as far from anything sensitive as possible.
Luckily when i redesigned the computers, i gave them all CANBUS. So it doesnt matter what order they are on the bus, as long as noise is well isolated. In short the computers can be anywhere.
At this time, the rear wing controller will be mounted behind the passenger seat on the firewall, the 4wd controller will be behind the glove box, the dash computer will be on the rear firewall as well as the ECU and the rest of them, wherever there is room..
Such as the rear wing controller and the 4wd controller all use high frequency, high current switching. This will cause alot of stray electrical noise. As such they will need to be mounted as far from anything sensitive as possible.
Luckily when i redesigned the computers, i gave them all CANBUS. So it doesnt matter what order they are on the bus, as long as noise is well isolated. In short the computers can be anywhere.
At this time, the rear wing controller will be mounted behind the passenger seat on the firewall, the 4wd controller will be behind the glove box, the dash computer will be on the rear firewall as well as the ECU and the rest of them, wherever there is room..



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