AWD EJ2 Build
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
I cant do too much before the respray and it seems thats not cheap..
Ive been working on the rear wing actuators, the mechanical part.. I need to buy some metal for it but as i said- im skint lol
Ive just made a list of jobs still to be done and its quite sizable. but i cant do anything now until ive done the rear wing mounts, fitted it to the boot lid, sent it for spraying and get it back..
I think you have it backwards. The rear end rotates slower, so you'll need a taller rear tire than the front. But by my calculations we're only talking about a 1-2% difference in tire height. The real problem lies in trying to find a tire company that makes tires in two different sizes that are close enough to be in that range and still fit on a civic. You don't want to run two different size rims. Although other people running AWD conversions seem to be running the same size tires all around (except Epic Tuning).
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
I agree mate- plus taking into account uneven wear (eg. the fronts are going to naturally take the most wear) the tyre size will not stay relative to each other anyway..
I would rather stick with the matched (if weaker) diff of the CRV.. At the moment theyre cheap enough to come across.. Plus im going to design the controller to be slightly "nicer" with the diff.. It wont just close the clutch, itll feed it in.. I think this is one of those areas i need to do my own research on - but i probably best finish it first lol!
I would rather stick with the matched (if weaker) diff of the CRV.. At the moment theyre cheap enough to come across.. Plus im going to design the controller to be slightly "nicer" with the diff.. It wont just close the clutch, itll feed it in.. I think this is one of those areas i need to do my own research on - but i probably best finish it first lol!
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Made a bit of progress recently..
Made the RH rear wing support..
This is the retracted position.

This is the extended position

There are a few things i dont want to do because id rather have the push-pull cables in front of me, but until then i can make the LH one and the actual boot mounting plates..
Please excuse the welding, its only tacked.. Ill be MIGing it up and then grinding it smooth before its chromed up..
Made the RH rear wing support..
This is the retracted position.

This is the extended position

There are a few things i dont want to do because id rather have the push-pull cables in front of me, but until then i can make the LH one and the actual boot mounting plates..
Please excuse the welding, its only tacked.. Ill be MIGing it up and then grinding it smooth before its chromed up..
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
There is quite a large difference..
The crv has the "honda dual pump" system.. Where it keeps the rear wheels disengaged whilst there is no speed difference between them and the front wheels.. When the front wheel speeds exceed the rear, the differential hydraulic pressure actuates the clutch inside the CRV diff and locks the rear wheels.. Obviously this attempts to match the wheel speeds..
Because the wheel speeds may become equal, the clutch disengages, as this happens very quickly, the integral of the function then becomes torque.. The modulating action of the cluch will serve to bias torque to the rear wheels..
The wagon diff is just a diff, there is a viscious coupler in the middle of the prop shaft. This has the rear diff perminantly attached to the gearbox, but allows it to differ in speed by the viscious coupler slipping..
The crv has the "honda dual pump" system.. Where it keeps the rear wheels disengaged whilst there is no speed difference between them and the front wheels.. When the front wheel speeds exceed the rear, the differential hydraulic pressure actuates the clutch inside the CRV diff and locks the rear wheels.. Obviously this attempts to match the wheel speeds..
Because the wheel speeds may become equal, the clutch disengages, as this happens very quickly, the integral of the function then becomes torque.. The modulating action of the cluch will serve to bias torque to the rear wheels..
The wagon diff is just a diff, there is a viscious coupler in the middle of the prop shaft. This has the rear diff perminantly attached to the gearbox, but allows it to differ in speed by the viscious coupler slipping..
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
The pump is part of the diff yeah.. You could quite easily lock it.. im not sure the best way to do it but its just a wet clutch...
OK tonights update
Almost finished the supports.. Just got to tidy the entrances to the boot and make sure they all line up..
Unfortunately as the uprights arent perfectly parallel, im going to have to slightly widen the tubes so the chroming doesnt rub off... I could see that being a problem...
Other than that, its going well..


oh ignore the chair, its just stopping them sliding back into the down position..
OK tonights update
Almost finished the supports.. Just got to tidy the entrances to the boot and make sure they all line up..
Unfortunately as the uprights arent perfectly parallel, im going to have to slightly widen the tubes so the chroming doesnt rub off... I could see that being a problem...
Other than that, its going well..


oh ignore the chair, its just stopping them sliding back into the down position..
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Okay then
I wasnt happy with last nights work.. I realised that the uprights couldnt be perfectly parallel and welding them would most likely result in them binding or at least damaging the chrome..
I decided to make a new set tonight with some additional pivot points in.. This time its perfect, perfectly free travel with almost no restriction
Tomorrow ill start on the actuator unit but, theres only a couple of little jobs to do on the uprights..
1. finish the nylon spacers
2. drill holes for boot mounting bolts
3. deburr




I wasnt happy with last nights work.. I realised that the uprights couldnt be perfectly parallel and welding them would most likely result in them binding or at least damaging the chrome..
I decided to make a new set tonight with some additional pivot points in.. This time its perfect, perfectly free travel with almost no restriction
Tomorrow ill start on the actuator unit but, theres only a couple of little jobs to do on the uprights..
1. finish the nylon spacers
2. drill holes for boot mounting bolts
3. deburr




Is that an APR Gt wing?
Are you going to use long travel 12V actuators to extent the wing while driving? Looks nice; very different and unique, but what on this car isn't. It would be really sweet if you could use a cantilever system and another actuator to tilt the wing to change the rear down force, especially when braking like an air brake like the McLaren car use (F1 or SLR).
Are you going to use long travel 12V actuators to extent the wing while driving? Looks nice; very different and unique, but what on this car isn't. It would be really sweet if you could use a cantilever system and another actuator to tilt the wing to change the rear down force, especially when braking like an air brake like the McLaren car use (F1 or SLR).
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Nah mate its one i got a few years ago in the uk.. Its a NACA profile but its unbranded..
The actuators are 24v but im running them at 36v, the computer will move it constantly..
It will move as you said, the rear of the wing is moved up and down by another linkage, it will function as an airbrake too...
The actuators are 24v but im running them at 36v, the computer will move it constantly..
It will move as you said, the rear of the wing is moved up and down by another linkage, it will function as an airbrake too...
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Todays progress
Been working on the actuator unit.. This will be mounted above the radiator, but under the parcel shelf in the boot.. Itll be linked to the wing using push/pull cables..
This still needs some work and i need to replace the guide rods with larger ones, finish the sensor mounts, and the motor mounts..
Been working on the actuator unit.. This will be mounted above the radiator, but under the parcel shelf in the boot.. Itll be linked to the wing using push/pull cables..
This still needs some work and i need to replace the guide rods with larger ones, finish the sensor mounts, and the motor mounts..
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Exactly mate, the tranny is weird as the prop is driven off the ring gear of the front diff, some of the reduction is done by that, so the diff ratio is very low.. The only car (apart from wagon) that is anywhere near it is the haldex based AWD of the VWs and Audis..
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
To do it you would need to increase the shaft speed to make it compatible with the S2K diff.. You cant modify the audi ones to get them exact.. If i knew of a solution i would use it.. Unfortunately for now im stuck with the crv diff...
Im going to write it into the software for the controller to restrict the harshness of the application of torque to the diff- hopefully that will save it..
Im going to write it into the software for the controller to restrict the harshness of the application of torque to the diff- hopefully that will save it..
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
A little more progress tonight...
Finished the mechanism on the rear wing.. All that remains is painting / chroming it up.. The bottom of the uprights is internally braced to the boot lid brackets- in this way it will pass all of the wing load through to the structure as opposed to just buckling the boot lid skin..






This is the wing in its "airbrake position", that is all the way up and high angle of attack.. Generally the wing wont be anything like this unless high G braking..
Finished the mechanism on the rear wing.. All that remains is painting / chroming it up.. The bottom of the uprights is internally braced to the boot lid brackets- in this way it will pass all of the wing load through to the structure as opposed to just buckling the boot lid skin..






This is the wing in its "airbrake position", that is all the way up and high angle of attack.. Generally the wing wont be anything like this unless high G braking..
I think it took me a good 2 or 3 hours to read this whole thread, post for post. And my god, I have never ever ever seen anything this extensive. Your car will definately be unique and I cannot wait to see it done, I can guarantee you that it will win every single car show it is taken to unless the viewers are biast of course. And you'll be featured in multiple magazines for this build...epic man major props on this.


