bought a 99 sir and everything seemed fine when i got it.. checked all the fluids they were good..drove it about 50km's and boom i got a slow ticking sound in the engine...and it got worse real fast..at idle its fine till i hit 2000 rpms and its clunking metal bad..when it was running good i noticed vtec hit hard and sounded like cams..could the previous owner have put in aft cams and not upgraded the valve train..i think a valve has dropped due to this and thats what the clunking is..

also should i get somebody to do this or can i just take off the valve cover to retreive the valve??cause i know i can take off the head but its the putting back together and the timing that gets me

please give me some head way..i need a car

 

you sure you didnt over rev it when you were ripping through vtec? IMO check the compression first, if none, you need to take the head off if it sounds like "clunking metal". if you dropped a valve you wont have compression in that cylinder..

Dont drive the car anymore either, you could cause further damage to the motor.

 

okay good.. i jsut had got the car from an auction..paid 4 grand for it as it was a trade in..the person before me bought a toyota tacoma...

it has 198,000 km's on it now and when i checked the sparked plugs they were absolutly fried and burnt to hell..the gap was like 150 to lol..

is it retreivable though if i did drop a valve.?

edit just say the pull the head comment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShOrT_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is it retreivable though if i did drop a valve.?

edit just say the pull the head comment </TD></TR></TABLE> im sure it is BUT It all depends on how much damage there is. If you mashed the piston you may have cracked the sleeve. Depending on how bad it is you may need to re-sleeve the motor and potentially repair the damage in the head aswell .

 

well i was getting the noise before..and it slowly came on strong...and it still sounds fine at idle and runs actually pretty smooth..i was reading a post about the guy who had marble sounds in his valvetrain area and its almost identical to what mine sounds like..and to think about it im used to alot of trq from my vw so i wasnt used to the b16 and expected it to be more and i think i hit 8 grand on it...with shitty plugs..maybe its tension on my timing belt

 

if its still running good but making a loud ticking sound you may just have valve lash. That can easily be adjusted.

 

valve adjustment all day. take a look at the retainers also one maybe cracked if it is and didn't drop the valve stop running it and get it fixed.

 

yeah exactly..it runs perfectly smooth not a sound..then i rev it just a tad to 2500 and it sounds like something rattles for a sec then stops

 

i have a video of the knock

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDJsMSw_Z5w

any imput or is it the same thing..??

 

Sounds too fast to be a rod knock after the engine starts. Your oil pump could be on the way out or the engine could have some other oil pressure related issue.

 

yes very good point..i pulled the valve cover and i seen some sludge sitting on the bolts..i did a motor flush (which i should have ) and changed the oil it made it a little worse i guess i should have doen 3 flushes..

so to the conclusion oil pump is on the way out or the oil lines to the head are clogged and running the valvetrain dry..when i pulled the valve cover i got a face full of burnt oil smoke and where there is the noise..underneath the valve cover there is oil burnt marks ont hat side of the engine and some scorching marks like heat related on the rocker arms on that side as well

mechanic said eh will look it over and replace the valve seals and such and get the valves and everything in order..

 

Sounds like the head is toast....heat marks=not good at all

 

sorry guys i tore it apart and built a b20vtec.. there was about 1/16th of play between the rod bearing and rod.. it was almost worn all away lol but the pistons and walls were still good