6262 .63 JB 2.5 or 3" downpipe? Trying to make max 450 whp stock h22 loose ring gaps E85.
I'm thinking 2.5 so I can try to limit the power. I have the V-band flange from Fab Pros that can fit 3" or 2.5. I know 3 is better for max power. https://www.ebay.com/itm/263863845523

 

Why would you try to limit your power by restricting exhaust flow... That's what wastegate springs and boost controllers are for.

No, go full 3". Isn't the flange on the turbine housing already 3" vband?

 

Well because I'm afraid it might boost creep. The manifold has a 44mm at a 90.



3.1" outer lip

2.6" inner

VS racing 44 gate

 

Well the stand up guy i bought it from told me it was freshly rebuilt with new comp wheel. Comp wheel looks new but the turbine blades look chewed up. Looks like he screwed me over. Or is this still useable? There's a little cut on one of the blades.

 

That’s what I’m thinking too.
The wastegate placement is on the collector so it’s in a good position, and a 44mm gate should be good enough to eliminate boost creep as long as the wastegate is functional.
When you buy used it’s the risk you take. I bought a used turbo and I’m hoping it works, but I’m prepared to buy new if it doesn’t.
It looks like the turbo can still work with that chip in the blade, but you’ll have to try it to find out.

 

First turbo I ever bought was a used unit from a pretty well known S2KI member - Found out a month or so later that the CHRA was totally fried, had to pay for a complete rebuild. Ended up spending a total of about $1300 for a bullseye BorgWarner, so that definitely sucked.

First and last time I ever bought a used turbo. I avoid buying anything used now that is exposed to a lot of movement/heat/vibration during use.

 

Well yes being at the collector is good but 90 is poor flow according to this guide:

I've also heard of people with ramhorns with 90 deg wastegates creeping and EVO guys with 6262's creeping. The 44 mm gate I have works good. It has lots of good reviews and a buddy has one for a few months now at like 20 psi? I was planning to recirc it by using an exhaust cutout Y-pipe and placing it under the oil pan. That could even create some vacuum on the dump tube. I've had open dump before for a while and can't stand the fumes and noise anymore. So for my old 38mm setup I did my own recirc by welding in a 45° pipe near the axle area and it worked great. Would it be a bad idea to step up the dump tube size? From 1.75" to 2.25". The larger size might create less restriction or slow down the speed. I can't decide which. Wish I could simulate with software or something. I think it will work fine anyways.

I bought a used t04e Turbonetics a few years ago and used it for a while lol. Rebuilt it once after a while but I couldn't find one tiny piece: a small washer. I tried two ebay kits. Both wrong size. The one I have is still cracked. So I'm not going to use it anymore.

Probably not going to buy any used turbos again unless it's fully inspected. At this point I think I'm going to put the gtx3076 back on. I was having a tough time fitting the downpipe as it gets real close to the slave. Also heard it will spool too fast on an h22 but I had an idea. Can't you just control this with the wastegate? And The comp housing gets really close to the manifold. One of the flanges almost touches. The 6262 was spaced out further.
Damn bro. That's tough. There's some good deals out there nowadays for new chinacharger Wuhan war whistles. LOL Pulsar are reliable and VSRacing has some, there's the Boosted Boiz gtx3582r and Even the ebay 99$ GT3582 has been proven. I could've use that but the the GT style outlet flanges are SO LONG and 4 bolt. I had trouble finding a shorter one too. The 6262's turbine outlet is super short which is awesome but all GT style have a longer outlet. Shortest I found was a 3" v-band but still had some length to it. This makes it tough to make the downpipe.
https://www.huntertuned.com/category/turbo-s

 

That is hilarious! Beats the "turo bo charger" on the manual for the china turbo I picked up for a lawnmower noise maker.

 

 

I only bought used because of such low price, $400 shipped, for a Garrett GTW3476, which go for like $1,200 new, so I though I’d give it a try from TXDragon here on the forum.
On that diagram they show an actual pipe going 90degrees that leads to the wastegate, not that the wastegate is positioned at a 90 degree angle on the actual collector so it’s not really relevant or valid for the manifold you have. A 90 isn’t ideal but since it’s close and on the collector, it should be where the exhaust is building up in the manifold.
That’s where the wastegate is on reputable manifolds such as the Full-Race one so there’s nothing to worry about with that wastegate placement.
As for recirculating your dump tube, that can increase the likelihood of you getting boost creep only because of the fact that your wastegate will be exiting to an exhaust stream rather than open air, so there will be some resistance to flow when your exhaust flowing through your wastegate meets the exhaust flowing down your downpipe.
About it creating vaccuum- it won’t be as much as if you had an open dump tube… think about it. If it’s for noise and the exhaust residue then I understand and think you don’t have to worry about boost creep overall if you have an open dump tube or recirculated with a functional 44mm wastegate. But we’ll have to see…

Me too.

 

You can make 450 on either size. It's not really gonna matter either way because like I told you before the likelihood of that engine having any reasonably measurable lifespan at 450whp is slim. Honestly from the picture you posted it looks like it's going to be pretty difficult to cram a 3" in there though.

 

I sold my BB turbo to someone here and it was MINT.

 

Are you sure there's a vacuum on an open dump? Only way I see is if the draft creates suction like how they use to do crankcase draft tubes.
Here is is how you can get a scavenge effect on the left. I've read accounts of it being effective. On the right is how I'm going to place my recirc. It may not scavenge since the pipe is so large idk. This is a smooth entry back into the exhaust and very far from the turbo outlet so it won't affect power. There was another thread here where a guy did this successfully and held 6 psi. https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...p-fix-2901407/
I guess you're right about the wastegate 90. I'll just have to try it and find out.

 

Yeah I believe 500 is the limit of 2.5?
What power should I stay at? and max rpm? JK said 450 max. I thought there's alot of people making big numbers on stock blocks? And mines even more safe because of loose gaps and e85.
I should be able to get a 3" downpipe to fit with the gtx30 using lots of bends. 1 90 and 2 45's.

 

As someone else pointed out though, you might not be able to reach 450hp with a stock set up H22, even if the ring gaps are more open. That’s a lot of stress on those pistons and rods.

 

The ring gaps and E85 are only going to give you some additional protection against cracked ringlands. You will very quickly find the limit of the stock connecting rods. They are representative of the times and not all that great.

There are only a very select few that I know of that have made above 400 on a stock H and had it live for even a few thousand miles. You can easily make 450whp with that setup you have but it comes down to a question of how quickly do you want to replace the engine? Because at that power level any time you put your foot down you are rolling the dice. The rods usually let go without any warning at all.

Given my experience, knowledge, and looking at your setup...I would say dial it back to 400whp max to be more reasonable. Have your tuner deliberately make it lazy in the low/midrange and keep the ignition timing conservative. Basically keep the torque below 300lb/ft at the tire at any given point. Personally I have always preferred a more responsive and snappy 300-350whp for a street car over some high peak number but that's personal preference and another conversation entirely.

 

Yeah I think 400 should be good. And I always hear about limiting power at low rpms with weak rods to make them not snap. I had 320 whp before this and wasn't quite satisfied with it because the rev limit was only 7500 on a stock lsvtec. It was fairly quick for me but I felt like I needed a little bit more. I'll tell the tuner what you said.

 

highschooler here is where I found the pic. https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/cra...haust.6855543/ There's alot of threads about slash cut vacuum pcv. It worked too well for one guy I'm just going to make the recirc with the Y pipe. I think it'll be fine.

 

Brother dont try 400whp on stock rods... 400whp on stock sleeves is okish but dam thos rods will ask for their freedom very soon.
Also turbine wheel is a gas expander. If you dont have the lower possible pressure after the turbine wheel your hindering its performance.
Get some pie cuts done. It will work.

 

I think either way, with or without the slash cut, you’ll be fine with that wastegate and exhaust manifold using the recirculated dump tube.

 

Ok what should I go for?

Are these builds not lasting? https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...al%2A-2036623/

Right I know the 6262 is 700 hp so I was trying to limit that. I've heard of people putting bigger exhausts and gaining a ton of power. And more backpressure in the downpipe = more exhaust being diverted through the wastegate?

 

 

 

I'm not even using the 6262 anymore. That dude came in late without reading half the thread. Seemed like he only read the initial post. This is the problem I have I'm pretty sure in theory it will work but sometimes things are different in practice so I'm asking for opinions and advice from people with experience.
Plus talking about pie cuts when I already showed the bends i have which work

 

Yes, I've read the thread. I was also the first one, out of multiple people, to tell you it's an amazingly bad idea to try to limit power by intentionally creating an exhaust restriction.