UTAH TSX

Well My TSX turbo project is done getting bored I actually started a garden this year what has my life become LOL
Time to turbo my sons TYPE-S he got a second job to pay for this man he is just like me obsessed
Comp turbo has an oil less turbo now water cooled only so we are going to use it that was the deciding factor for us to go remote mounted and avoid jamming it all in the engine bay
I have no idea what size to use with the loss of heat to help spool it up we are looking to go 10 PSI max (until we blow it up and build a motor to handle more) and it is a daily driver but we don't want to go to small and kill the top end power
What do you think ?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

People are making 800hp on 100% stock j series. I doubt you'll kill it.

It will all come down to the size of the turbine wheel and turbine housing, also, ceramic coating and heat wrap will be your best friends.

D-Rob

Putting the turbo anywhere but the engine bay is going to kill response. I've seen it a million times.

Check out the J&R kits for those cars, and emulate that design if anything.

UTAH TSX

We have looked at every turbo tl we could find and they are all so jammed into the engine bay it's just more than we want to tackle for his dailey driver
There is room to put the turbo where the center muffler was right under the back seat do you think it will be that unresponsive ??
800 whp on stock j series nice guess I've under estimated it we won't be anywhere close to that
So what size turbo ??? been thinking the comp 6262 .63 AR water only with v band in and out think that will work

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'd suggest cramming it in the engine bay. If it is a daily driven vehicle, he shouldn't be in the engine bay that often anyway.

Also, what is your plan for an air intake if the turbo is remote located under the vehicle?

EDIT: This doesn't look too bad!

UTAH TSX

I see 13 elbows in the picture, that is a sweet set up is that tony the tigers ?

D-Rob

I do think it will be terribly unresponsive.

A T3, 6262, .63AR will be a bit small for the engine's breathing characteristics, but would be responsive if placed in the engine bay.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The reason remote turbos work so well on big v8 motors is displacement... what they loose in exhaust gas temperature they make up for with sheer exhaust volume.

the other reason is in your typical v8 dometic lacks any room in the engine bay.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I googled it, but I don't think it's Tony's.

Anyways, the elbows really don't make it more complicated. I think running a FMIC with a remote mount turbo would be just as difficult. A turbo set up isn't easy or simple. If it was, everyone would do it. It's definitely a custom job. But there is a lot of space in the battery area on these cars so mounting the turbo there is definitely possible.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

well the one benefit to a low power remote setup is that the length of the charge piping and its resulting surface area do a fairly good job of lowering air temps... some have even used finned piping like a big heatsink for an even larger drop in temp. a fmic can still help but depending on turbo size, pressure levels, and compressor outlet temps, it isn't needed due to the above mentioned effect

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Very true. Makes sense. Did not cross my mind. I had a pretty narrow idea going originally.

UTAH TSX

I talked to STS turbo and they recommend a 6262 comp oil less turbo they say it will easily make 450-500 WHP (my goal) the only thing that was shocking is the recommend a 2 in. charge pipe, I'm kind of new at this but dam that seems tiny for a 3.5 L engine ,they are making 600 WHP on there v6 3.5 L camaro with this setup, I think I will buy my parts from them and pick there brains for the best setup they are a 20 minute drive from my house and they have done hundreds of these, BUT 2IN CHARGE PIPE WHAT ??

92cxyd

2" charge pipe with no tight bends will work, charge velocity up.

Use larger piping if your trying to compensate for flow loss when tight bends are used.

Yungone501

Just joined the HT forum (but have been around for years) because I wanted to chime in on your thread here about boosting your sons TL.

Before I begin, I'd like to first say that the picture posted above by the forum member "Freemananana" is actually my car....so I have quite a bit of experience with running boost on the j-series.

I'd like to address your first concern of the overly crowded engine bay. My car is a poor example of my point but this isn't always the case when throwing a turbo in the TL. I've seen plenty of turbo manifolds that run below rather than above and pretty much place the turbo where the battery sits. This makes for a very clean look IMO. This typically involves joining each banks manifold either below (cleaner but more restrictive) or merging the two at the turbo itself. The last of two makes for unequal manifold lengths but won't make a noticeable difference. The second option also means the rear bank manifold being brought up and over the trans beneath the throttle body. Then of course you will have the downpipe itself which can be turned down at a hard angle thereby showing little of itself.

As I said, its possible. It's all about thought of design, making compromises for certain advantages, and then finally having a great fabricator to make the idea happen. Let me know if you need any additional advice or help. I don't mind answering any questions that you have. Good luck and GO WITH IT!

PS Not sure what the rules are on linking to other forums but my build thread is on Acurazine and I've got it posted in the 2nd gen CL section. My username is in the title and it's the same username I have here. Check it out.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Go ahead and link it. Wont be an issue.

UTAH TSX

Thanks Yungone I will for sure be asking questions, and your turbo set up is amazing I will be checking out your build thread

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

And even THEY are a bit unresponsive even with the bigger 400CID engines with the remote mounted turbos.

When doing a remote mounted turbo, I've found that you have to go with a much larger exhaust wheel/compressor wheel combination in order make up for the slower exhaust energy the turbo will experience so far back in the exhaust stream.

I'm working with someone with a 427CID Remote located Jeep, and he's easily looking at GT4508R for the 1000whp he wants, and he's barely cracking 650whp with his Precision.

A 6262 sized turbo could do in the 700whp in the engine bay for the remote setups, You're looking at something at least as large as a 67mm inducer with 92mm exducer and 80mm exhaust wheel size.

You have to go bigger overall when going remote location. D-Rob hit it on the money.

Yungone501

http://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873314

It's currently at 31 pages but it's more like a story more than a build thread. Hope it helps.

Tony the Tiger

Nope, but the one I've built is a forward facing turbo setup:

First stage (GT35R):





Later Stage (HKS T51R):

UTAH TSX

Tony the Tiger / wantboost / Yungone501 / TheShodan / D-Rob / 92cxyd/ dcmatt
Thanks for responding you all have far more knowledge about boosting than I ever will,
My son and I have spent a lot of time researching the remote mount systems and have decided to go ahead and give it a try, worst case we hate it and cut up the tubing and do it again using the same turbo waste gate blow off valve Flashpro injectors intercooler ETC.
My big hangup is what size of turbo to use STS keep saying a Comp 6262 is what to use with a 2 in. charge pipe that sounds great for my K24 but a 3.5 liter at 6800 RPM ??
Help me understand ----how this would work -----or how it wont (not response of the remote just turbo size) ---this is a street DD so we don't want all top end power but we also don't want to flat line HP at 5k
-------Thank you for your large brains full of boosting experience--------

D-Rob

They are recommending small charge pipe to keep charge air speed up. A large charge pipe will have to be filled before even reaching the engine, which is a LOT of volume from front to back.

HickamHatch

Sure is a nice looking setup! I am kind of biased though...

allshowfxt

Watch out for rain and snow :/

UTAH TSX

We are still going to remote mount it in the center of car (under back seat cacity where the center muffler was) but I could really use some help on what size wheel and compressor housing AR to get, I dont have much experience with turbos just my TSX and a few other friends and they are all common stuff so I could research it but not on remote mount not much out there, this is what I have come up so far http://compturbo.com/products/turbos...illet/ct3-6262
thinking .63 Iron v-band inlet/outlet turbine housing Triplex Ceramic water cooled oil less

stupidhard

there is a lot to consider with a remote turbo system.

plumbing is the main issue. oil, intake air, and compressed air.

seems like a good turbo, of course im no expert on matching turbos to engines.

IMHO you will spend way less money and time on a kit that is made for your vehicle. if there are no kits currently available then you may have to diy and piece it together, but you would still spend less on a more conventional turbo setup.


totally up to you.

-chris