This is the second precision 6262 turbo that I have owned. First one was a BB6262 turbo I had on my full race kit and loved the spool and power it puts down. I probably put a good 5,xxx miles on it until I sold the kit with completely zero issues. But the second 6262 JB turbo I had put more than 4,xxx miles on it was tuned by T1 and runs without an issue. Two months later the turbo starts to smoke on start up. I change my oil every 1,000 miles max. The turbo was sent to precision and they said that my oil was contaminated And thats why my turbo **** on me. Their reccomendations was for me to change my oil more often. Lol. The warranty cover the the repair and sent it back. Well two months later I finally got the chance to put the turbo back on the car and 20 miles down the road I hear a metal scraping metal noise and come out to find, the turbo has shaft play after no more than 20 miles of driving and was slight rubbing the housing when i spin the compressor wheel. I had oil bleed through the Line and turbo before actually driving it. The warranty is over on the turbo but I don't understand what can cause this? I am using a -10 an return stright down (no kinks) from turbo into moroso oil pan and -3 an no restrictor ( precision said not needed for one) feed no kinks on it either. I sent the turbo back to precision for repair and I know I am going to have to pay for all the repairs.
My question is has anyone ever Had this problem? Or have someone else repair/rebuild their billet wheel precision turbo ? And does anyone have any idea what might have cause this? I am worried since I did some research and found a few people in the same boat as I am and most of them are using their billet wheel turbo.
( bare with me, as I am typing from my phone).

 

If you search on here most guys still recommend running a restrictor with them, even though PTE says you don't need to.

What's your oil pressure like at idle? Might be worth looking into a .065 or .080" restrictor for it. Would be good to get a manual oil pressure gauge on it after the restrictor so you have an idea of how much pressure is going into the turbo.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/need-advice-oil-restrictor-my-precision-turbo-sc44-use-one-not-plz-help-2950429/

There's a post where TheShodan illustrates the need for a restrictor, even on journal bearing setups. ATP also sells an oil feed flange/adaptor with a built in -4AN fitting and just a pilot hole on the feed, which lets you drill the hole to a size of your choosing.

 

On most Hondas oil pressure is high compared to most other vehicles on the road. With a journal bearing turbo should be running a .0065 restrictor if oil pressure at any time goes over 65psi which generally Hondas do

 

had the same issue with a 6265 the inner shaft grooved the exhaust housing so bad . sent to precision they told me the oil contamination story but the turbo was fresh out the box.something with the shaft and the bearings needed replacing. when i got it back after the 2nd time sending it to them for the same prob ..i noticed the whole center section was changed and new no problems now ..723 hp n loving it .love precision but little problems cause a headach

 

See alot of these threds, is quality control being overlooked you guys think? Or just so many of them being pumped out that once in a while its overlooked ? Dirty Assembly line maybe

 

I dont know what the problem is either, seems like alot of these billet wheel turbo has been having quite some issues when i did some research. Some peeps had good look, some not any. O well The turbo is at precision right now. Hopefully they don't charge me up the ***.

 

i asked precision about this. they claim the new JB units use these steel piston rings and can withstand up to 180psi of pressure. they just said a dash 3 on a honda would be the ticket.

sadly i only had a one week trial to find out but it did work and didn't blow by....even thought my engine pistons did

 

how does high oil pressure hurt a turbo. i dont understand it

 

oil is flowing through the center housing. if it overwhelms the seals oil leaks into the hot or cold or both sides

 

.065 would be correct. .0065 would run that bad boy dry.

 

isnt the oil sealed in by the oil ring made of metal. and if too much oil pressure it will just leak out of the ring. that wouldnt cause damage just some oil burning

 

Ok. Precision call me today. They said the the cause of the problem is either something broke off from inside my head or a chunk of metal broke off from my turbo manifold and went down the turbo and cause my whole cartridge bearings and all to go bad? I think it is BS. IMHO I think they are blaming my motor/ manifold for the cause of this. They said it was going to cost 900 something for the repair, but they have a remanufacture cartridge there they will fix it up for 500 plus shipping. when they told me 900 at first I was like what? I can add a couple hundred and buy a new one. I went ahead and just gave them my CC number info because they said they can have it out today and I need this quick as of IFO here is coming up and my tune date is in two weeks. I am glad they can get this back to me ASAP but seems like they are blaming me for the cause.

 

dud thats what they say everytime. oil contamination and something caused by you

 

the only turbos i know of that will handle the honda oil pressures without a restrictor are the borg warners and the holsets.

its not just some its a ton if it gets in the downpipe u wont be able to see anything behind u, plus all that oil leaking will run u dry eventually. i run an npt line the equivalent to a -3 an and a .08 restrictor

 

precision are a bunch of crooks if i ever seen some, not once have i ever heard them admit a failure was due to manufacture defects. Even the best companies in the world still have a couple unavoidable failures or are precision turbos assembled by moses and jesus.

From a business stand point i understand not wanting to admit blame, shady? yes. good for business? i guess.

atleast if your not going to admit fault which they never do, dont charge people out the *** to fix your **** up.

 

so far i havnt had issues with a -4 feed into a -4 to 1/8" fitting. so its really a 1/8" feed. 1 hr of dyno time and 4 passes though. Race only.

 

Garrett > Precision

Not ******* on precision, still a good company but when do you see " why did my Garrett turbo fail when its clearly not user error" I know countless ppl have precision without issues. Maybe its just bad quality control from batch to batch

 

dont run a restrictor. anyone who tells you to do that has no idea what they are talking about.

oil is the life blood of the turbo. it cools it, lubricates it, and keeps it alive!



why your turbo failed is beyond me. but it would help if you posted pics of your whole setup. (i like to ask people to do this because the ones that are trying to hide something never post up pics!! theres always more to the story)

 

I keep hearing this alot lately about precision. Garrett has always been my first choice anyway though.

 

Originally Posted by 92frostwhtdb2
precision are a bunch of crooks if i ever seen some, not once have i ever heard them admit a failure was due to manufacture defects. Even the best companies in the world still have a couple unavoidable failures or are precision turbos assembled by moses and jesus.

No they dont work there, seems like Garrett must have hired them

 

That is definitely their most common conclusion. Ive heard of turbos failing on recently rebuilt motors that just had their oil changed. PTE blaimd oil contaminants though a full oil analysis showed zero contaminantd.

Exactly why I wont deal with them anymore. I always had good luck with their turbos but I have zero respect for how they treat their customers. I will stick with Borg Warner and Garrett and thats what I recommend to others.