aight guys like the topics says, i have an emange and eo1 22 turbo. drive is about 30 mins, tried lowering the boost but my wastegate wont open. should i just take out the spring and let out all the boost? is this bad to do? i dont wanna blow up the engine because my car is not tuned for ****. so let me know wassup, aight man.

 

no don't take your spring out thats too much unneeded work. It's simple....do not hit the gas hard since you shouldn't be in the first place on a basemap. You are not creating boost every time you accelerate (given that you have the ability to accelerate like a "normal" driver). Just be easy on the gas, acclerate slowly and you won't be in boost.....problem solved.

 

pull your charge pipe off.

 

do this. you'd be surprised how much you can accelerate and not get into boost.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no don't take your spring out thats too much unneeded work. It's simple....do not hit the gas hard since you shouldn't be in the first place on a basemap. You are not creating boost every time you accelerate (given that you have the ability to accelerate like a "normal" driver). Just be easy on the gas, acclerate slowly and you won't be in boost.....problem solved.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Do you know where your turbo starts spooling...RPM wise I mean? If so, you can even floor it (which I don't recommend as it is on the basemap)...but you can floor it and not even hit boost if you shift before your turbo starts spooling.

Even when I accelerate at a fairly quick pase, I don't even hit boost.....I may sometimes only hit like 2psi if that.

 

i've got the same issue... my tuner told me just turn the fuel pressure up and not go not go into boost. I have a set of dsm injectors I was going to install but I have no way of controlling them so i guess i'im going to wait to get to his shop to install them...

but yeah, if you can turn your fp up and dont go into boost..

 

depends on your case....was your basemap made for the dsm injectors? If so, you want them installed. If it was burned for your stock injectors, just leave them on.

 

right, i've got a stock ecu and no ems... I'm heading to the tuner for neptune so right now I have no way of controlling these injectors. I have to try head out there on stock injectors avoiding boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mbdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull your charge pipe off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is dumb.....do not do this. This will overspin ur turbo.

 

i pulled the charge pipe off and put on my short ram. then when i was on the dyno i just had to attach the charge pipe and plug in my three bar. The i was set

 

Dunc your turbo is "spooling" at idle, it is still spinning and even with throttle modulation it will take you higher out of vac than an NA car, even before it's spooled.
just be safe, DO NOT TAKE OFF A CHARGEPIPE, just take out the wastegate spring. there is no reason not too as it works perfectly.

 

danm, i just did this to see if i hooked up my vtec right but my turbo starts spoolin bout 2800 or 3000, i turned up my fuel about 40 psi at idle... is that too much? oh another thing, i bought this motor from a guy online, we ran the numbers and its not stolen but he doesnt know if it is built, yesturday i hooked up the vtec and wanted to see if it worked, it did but it felt like it didnt pull hard... there is no check engine light or nothing! how would i know if the motor is built internally? any ways to check it without pullin the motor apart?

 

is it really that hard to be easy on the accelerator? i could drive a boosted car all day to school and work and not get into boost....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it really that hard to be easy on the accelerator? i could drive a boosted car all day to school and work and not get into boost....</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, i had a 15G on my car last summer and I could stay out of boost no prob.... not that i wanted to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f22b2tdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dunc your turbo is "spooling" at idle, it is still spinning and even with throttle modulation it will take you higher out of vac than an NA car, even before it's spooled.
just be safe, DO NOT TAKE OFF A CHARGEPIPE, just take out the wastegate spring. there is no reason not too as it works perfectly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea it does spin all the time.....what does that change though for this situation? Just because it is spinning doesn't mean he is creating boost.

flip1199 - "is it really that hard to be easy on the accelerator? i could drive a boosted car all day to school and work and not get into boost...." I agree 100% flip1199, just drive the damn car to the tuners without hitting the gas that much, and leave it at that.

Greddyboy - 40psi fuel pressure at idle is not too much. Hondata.com I believe even tells you to set it to 50 or 60 before tuning. Correct me if I am wrong again, but 38-40psi is stock, basically 80-90+ is not a smart idea so you just pick the pressure that suits your needs within those boundaries (use common sense) haha