fmu and inlne pump now car loads up bad when not in boost?? help

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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 11:13 AM
  #1  
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Default fmu and inlne pump now car loads up bad when not in boost?? help

Today I took the blue box and RC 310's off. I got a vortch 12:1 fmu, inline pump from a drag3 kit and a missing link. It runs great when I floor it. When I drive normal or stop it loads up with fuel, smokes black and back fires allot. If I disconnect the fmu it doesn’t load up. It seems like the fmu is making the fuel pressure higher even not in boost.This is on a b18b with a 16g turbo running 7psi.

update: well if i turn the inline pump off it runs fine or if i dissconect the fmu with the pump on it runs fine. but the two together the car loads up so bad it almost dies.




Modified by civic dx at 10:23 PM 11/25/2004
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 11:22 AM
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Default Re: fmu and inlne pump now car loads up bad when not in boost?? help (civic dx)

get some real management

what you have is typical of fmu setups.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 11:27 AM
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Default Re: fmu and inlne pump now car loads up bad when not in boost?? help (pissedoffsol)

can't afford hondata now i need to make this work untill i have more money
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 11:31 AM
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Default

ur running the wrong fmu ratio for the kit, ur supposed to run a 10:1 ratio, that is what comes in the drag kit for the b series
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 11:48 AM
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Default Re: (PrettyLude)

that will not effect the way it runs not in boost.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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Default Re: (civic dx)

check your missing link. 12:1 should be fine. just check everythng over again.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 02:13 PM
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Default Re: (PrettyLude)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ur running the wrong fmu ratio for the kit, ur supposed to run a 10:1 ratio, that is what comes in the drag kit for the b series</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, the 12:1 FMU is stock. And like he said, the FMU does nothing until your in boost.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pissedoffsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some real management

what you have is typical of fmu setups.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it's not, quit posting out of your *** with misinformation. Many people run the FMU including me and do not have any problems.

You more than likely have a bad FMU, try another one and see if it helps.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 05:30 PM
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Default Re: (nsxmatt)

bump for help
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 06:47 PM
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Default Re: (civic dx)

Make sure the 6 Allen bolts holding the FMU cap aren't on really tight. They should only be tightened to 2 ft.lbs. (which is really not tight at all). If they are too tight the FMU will dump fuel when not in boost. I've done this before and it had the same exact symptoms that you had described.

FYI - I've been running 15 psi on a 12:1 FMU with an InlinePro 2mm headgasket, VAFC/RC 440/Holly 255/C16 for a little over a year and had no problems at all. Stupid?... Probably. Does it work if you really don't have money for real management?... Yes. If you can afford AEM, Hondata, etc. I recommend anybody to go that route. I just wanted to say that I have had pretty good luck with an FMU setup. Good luck diagnosing your problem!
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 07:16 PM
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Default Re: (Chrome Pipes)

ok i will losen them tomarrow and see of it helps.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 07:46 PM
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Default Re: (civic dx)

Well, the FMU ONLY goes into affect when in boost, If you have an INLINE PUMP (I recomend Walbro Intank) You are getting enough fuel to the rail, that you DO NOT need and FMU, I installed my Walbro 255, The FMU is just a restriction which causes unnessesary Fuel Pressure. Mine was like that, I dropped in a new pump, and bipassed the FMU, so now my fuel goes the the Regulator (AEM), strait back to the Fuel Tank. Like I said, if you have a Large or Inline fuel Pump, It is (should) be more than enough fuel.
Excuse me, now I have to crap out this Thanksgiving Turkey. Holla back at us.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 08:19 PM
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Default Re: (Chrome Pipes)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chrome Pipes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure the 6 Allen bolts holding the FMU cap aren't on really tight. They should only be tightened to 2 ft.lbs. (which is really not tight at all). If they are too tight the FMU will dump fuel when not in boost. I've done this before and it had the same exact symptoms that you had described. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how tight for the bottom 4 bolts?
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 03:08 PM
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Default Re: (civic dx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how tight for the bottom 4 bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I remember correctly, you are not supposed to take out the bottom four bolts. If you do it screws up the inside of the FMU. There is an internal diaphram inside the casing and I kinda remember when my FMU got screwed up, I called Vortech and the tech said don't take out the bottom four bolts. He told me they could "recalibrate it" for $10, so I just got another one off of a friend. Call Vortech and see what they say.
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