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I would not suggest trying to port that channel in the turbine housing
oh hell no. I didnt mean myself porting it. Shouldve been more clear. I was tthinkin bout the process of having it professionally ported. And how dragstically would it change the turbos effiency. Or if its just a situation when this should established in the cast before mold.
oh hell no. I didnt mean myself porting it. Shouldve been more clear. I was tthinkin bout the process of having it professionally ported. And how dragstically would it change the turbos effiency. Or if its just a situation when this should established in the cast before mold.
Porting the volute won't really help you. Only possibly the turbine inlet. I suggest making sure it's the correctly sized turbine volute to the exhaust wheel.
its that time of year again. Starting to get alittle warmer here. Finally broke down and changed the fluids. First thoughts of the synchrotech/torco mtf was, um.... its ******* yellow. Immediately thought of honda mtf lol. Klotz is red, so thats why it stood out. Thats what i typically run. Didnt seem overly thick while filling. First drive was smooth, no notchiness, grinds, or popout. Better first drive impressions than that redline i had to get last year. Nailed 3rd and 4th a few times, and the shifts were pretty solid. No nonsense. Shifting almost felt light or effortless, like there was no resistance.
after a few heated pulls, i finally started getting the tires to hook today. Took about an hour to get the tires decent so i could get a good feel of 24psi. Whole time driving im thinkin man this feels way slower than last year. Knowing my tires are spinning. However i didnt think they were spinning that bad.
black beast finally showed up though.
got some cleaning and minor stuff to do. Then ill post some videos up. Its annoying how many dumbass driver try to edge you on to nailing it. So im sure there be some interesting vids.
its that time of year again. Starting to get alittle warmer here. Finally broke down and changed the fluids. First thoughts of the synchrotech/torco mtf was, um.... its ******* yellow. Immediately thought of honda mtf lol. Klotz is red, so thats why it stood out. Thats what i typically run. Didnt seem overly thick while filling. First drive was smooth, no notchiness, grinds, or popout. Better first drive impressions than that redline i had to get last year. Nailed 3rd and 4th a few times, and the shifts were pretty solid. No nonsense. Shifting almost felt light or effortless, like there was no resistance.
Good to know. Swapping trans flud is also on my things to do list. Made the mistake of filling my S2k w/ Royal Purple last time (coming from synchromesh)...
Man, both of those names brings up memories of before i was boosted. Way back on one of my jdm b16a swapped cars, with a jdm clutch type lsd tranny. Originally put in royal purple cause of the so called high friction modifier. Right away, on turns, the amount of chatter was insane. Changed that fluid out for pennzoil synchromesh. Instant relief. Still had clutch type lsd chatter. But, was no near as bad on the royal purple. For stock or lower hp/tq setups, id still run pennzoil synchromesh over honda mtf. Ever since they changed their mtf formula.
for what its worth though, drove the si again today. And same as friday, still happy with the torco mtf. Good alternative for klotz that i run. Klotz is just convenient cause it can be locally picked up.
Did some datalogging yesterday. Last summer i upgraded the wiring to the fuel pump using a relay and 10awg ran from my positive distribution block. Havent had the opportunity to make vids and datalog much this year. Anyway last year when i did a quick dyno day when i hit 496whp, my injector duty cycle was 96-97%. Below is a datalog after the fuel pump wiring upgraded. Not sure if it matters or not, but on this datalog run, there was three 220lbs guy in the car.
I have nearly ten year old id1000s. Yea i honestly didnt know how big of difference to expect from grading the oem wiring to 10awg with a relay. So i guess the 3-4% isnt bad. Considering it was at 96-97% duty cycle last year. That wouldve been one bad tank of gas or one lean moment when i run out fuel, then the engine popped. Fuel pump wiring should be done around the 500whp anyway. I just didnt think i was up there. Hit 422whp on pure tunings mustang dyno, then 496whp gearmasters dynojet couple months later. In hotter weather also.
do u use a fuel pressure regulator that manage 1:1 fuel pressure to boost?
AEM fpr (cant remember which orfice is install), base pressure of 45 i believe lol. I read couple yeara ago, about the adjustable fpr loosing their pressure after years of hot heat cycles. Was gona reorder while ago, since that has also been on the car for nearly ten years. Just as a precautionary measure.
hopefully soon my wireworx harness shows up. Thats the likely the last thing this year for black. And had to order the honda steering rack tool for my torque steer. ***** starting to become unbearable. Like a wreckless 16 year old girl.
finally got around to adjusting the steering rack. First, i tightened the bolt too much. I did two quarter turns. The car felt like manual rack with a dying power steering pump. Couple days later, i got back under and loosen it a quarter of a turn. Now the car feels responsive as it did prior. But, still kind of loose. So im thinkin, im goin to get back under there, and just bump it a smidge. Heres the steering rack adjustment bolt
i also think the high speed swaying was from a worn sway bar bracket bushing on the front. So those are goin to get replaced with energy suspension bushing and new endlinks. In the front and rear.
now on to the good stuff. Received my wireworx harness today. As advertised, its a thing of beauty. The 18 year old oem harness is starting to get brittle. Had couple wires break at the plug, behind the pin. So it was time.
its a stage 1 with integrated hondata cop harness, id1000s plugs, and extended iat plug. They actually exceeded my expectations on the iat plug. It was ran to the oem location. But they simplified it by making an plug and play harness to reach the sensor in the charge piping. So far i am highly impressed and happy with its presentation. Everything is labeled as an option. Which also makes it easier. Theres a few wire that need to be wired in. In this case i will likely cut off the one obd2b plug off of my old conversion harness. Then solder the few wires to that plug. Then just plug it rite into the oem obd2 secondary harness. Instead of cutting and splicing. I also need to repin my wire for my BBG signal. Only thing that im not fond of is down by the ecu, the wires are zip tied. Im worried in the long run, those zip ties will damage the insulation. Possibly wires. So anyway, onto the pics. I do more during the installation. And how it looks when ran.
Last edited by ls joker; Aug 25, 2018 at 06:58 PM.