I had one of these and it did well for a little bit. Used it on a S2 70mm TB. After a few months, I saw issues. I noticed it would fluctuate between .45 and .49 closed, at idle, then give inconsistent WOT readings. I eventually swapped it out for a Dorman TPS and never saw another problem.

 

Jeez. What made you land on doorman products lol

Ill update after a new TPS and datalog.

 

The dealership had to order and it would take about 2 weeks. I found the Dorman on Amazon and got it delivered the next day. Lol. Matter of fact, I'm still using that same sensor a year later..

 

Looks good, glad to see it back together.

I too have had better "luck" w/ non "popular name branded" TPS sensors when needed. Shoot me an email, I can send you a link.

 

thanks guys

kool. Ill send one over. Mite be looking for some other stuff soon too. Just not sure which route i want to go

 

UPDATE

Made it back to the dyno yesterday. First successful tuning seesion in years. Ill go over things that has been changed. Im sure theres something that ill forget. But the important things will be listed for sure.

Same 84mm b16 block setup
pure tuning spec h cylinder head port job
same gsc n1 cams
golden eagle cam gears
supertech 85lb valveteain kit, but with brian crower steel retainers!
je pro seal heagasket
ngk iridium 8s( prolly switching to 9s soon)
-6an fuel feed and return
walbro 450(274 model)
turbosmart fuel and oil filter( need a new steel -3an female/female union. Aluminum one broke in half)
golden eagle fuel rail
Old id1000s cleaned and flow tested( they were sticking open)
radium fuel pressure damnper
4" to 3" intake with dirty old filter thats been washed and cleaned lol
Garret gtw3476r .82ar housing

We were able to produce 468whp/318wtq mustang dyno at 26psi. Dynojet numbers are likely around 542whp. Easily without any signs of stress or serious issues. Will post some pics/ vids up and the sheets from all the work done. When i actually get up for the day.

Hope this helps some, provide a good read. Or just bring the greatness back to HT

 

Ive only put about two full tanks on the setup as it is. Still on the same oil change and plugs from last dyno. After winter made a couple changes. Changed the goautoworks gt500 fmic out for the goautoworks gt800 fmic. Still in single backdoor layout. The old cheapo blackworks racing 933cfm fan was replaced with the spal 1300cfm fan. Or whatever the output is. All sway bar bushing and shifter bushings were replaced red energy suspension bushing. Front sway bar bracket threads go fucked. So welded new nuts in place.

Next dyno day is setup for 8/27/22. Injectors are getting replaced for id1300cc. And will be using sunoco/speedway cam2 (110 octane) vs 93+boostane (104 octane). I should have no fuel issues limiting injector duty cycle. New fmic and fan should help with the higher pressures.

 

Sooooo are you just building this to dyno it or taking it to the track soon???

 

Looks more like a highway car than a track car

 

Exactly. Its more of a highway car. I want to hit an roll racing event when one gets closer to my region.

Tranny will need rebuilt soon. Was starting to get notchy years ago. At that point, i will be going with liberty face plated gears. Then the car will able to handle the track better.

 

What type of fuel are you running? Cool to see you still have this car.

 

I currently am using 93 mixed with boostane. Thats gets me to 104 octane. Switching to speedway cam2 110 octane. Which sounds like its really sunoco 110

 

Update

Decided to take my 14 year old along with me. As ive started having him helping me do some things. Since hes getting more interested in cars. The session was a good day overall. After we got the injectors in, a leak developed at the FPR 90° adapter oring. Got that switched out and no more pressing matters other than the tires spinning so much. He had so much issues in trying to dial everything in due to how fast and early on it was ramping in. Aswell as the knurling being completely worn down on the rollers.

So, we had to taper the boost tables to resembles a S/C torque curve. IATs stayed at 90°, injector duty cycle is down and holding around 60%. With the turbo maxed at 31psi, we put down 479whp/342wtq. Says around 31-34psi theres little to no gains. The graph on the tables show the fuel just stacking on top of each other. Meaning turbo or engine isnt moving anymore air.

I seriously dont believe i dont have enough motor or turbo. However, those 479whp/342wtq measurements are being seriously underrated by the awd mustang dyno. Understand theryre just numbers, but dynojet will be around 560whp. Will be getting there soon. That also means im right in the range that garrett says the gtw3476r is capable of.

I seriously believe the intake manifold needs to go. Ive been leaning towards the victor x. Cams are also a limitation at this point. Pro 1s or maybe tuner 2s. The head flows numbers, i just feel the manifold and cams will free up alot of air to move out of the turbo. Not bottle necking the spec h ported pure tuning head job

Im gona post some stuff up very soon. Dyno sheet shows a tapered boost and torque curve to help with wheel spin. Will be able to see how he had it setup on the boost tables to accomplish that. Also will post up my adjustments ramping dem shitz back in like a bat out hell. As i dont have to bad of traction issues after a few pulls lol. The tables showing how the 30-34psi range is at its efficiency range. Video is just kinda blah. But viusal aides coming soon.

this is how the tuner adjusted the tables to make it easier for him to tune it. Due to wheel spin


these are my adjustments afterwards


high cam fuel table



Finally the dyno sheet that just shows numbers, and the setups curve with the boost table tapering in. I rev to 9500rpm, he just cut it off there. And overlayed it compared to last years results


The two vids i got werent really spectacular. One is just a high boost high revving vid. Other is one of high boost ramping in pretty quick. After i get time and my gopro charged, im gona start recording more

 

I love it! Similar to my build. Mine is a 83mm b16. Stock gsr cams, type r intake and now eBay turbo.
I may be very interested in some of your parts if you start swapping things.

 

Yes you should be very close. My curve and top end will be different tho.

Unless i come across some deals on a victor x and cams (wink, wink greg). Wont be happening anytime soon. Maybe... next year.

I want to get my oil pressure, oil & water temp gauages, oil cooler, steering wheels, and seats setup first. Then at some point look into slicks and wheels.

 

I've read some reviews on the boostane. But never talked to anyone using it.

What do you think of it? Issues getting good repeatable octane numbers? Does it perform well under boost?

 

Works well. Depending on location and whats available. It is a great option. Buying the cam2 is a bit cheaper, alittle more octane to it, prolly has special characteristics about it too. So it was a no brainer. I just want to be able to pump or fill then be able to go. No mixing, no inconsistantcies.

One 32oz can was like 33 dollars before tax. So say 40 dollars and fiffty to sixty on a full tank of 93octane. I mixed one full 32oz can with a full tank to get 104octane for 90-100 bucks.

42 dollars of 110octane, about 5/8th full tank of race fuel

 

Baby step progression. Sneak peek


Will post picks when its installed. Tomorrow or sunday. Still gota finds some resistors. Also looking for an oem airbag delete tray. However, i mite be limited to carbon fiber. Which i dont really want. Wanted to do all interior stuff. Will prolly still look into sparco or recaro seats. But will have to hold off on seat belt harness. Because i need to read up more on the safety and reviews off harness bars. A roll bar setup like autopower would prolly work, i have a feeling they need welded in though. I need these items because im a big guy and i slide around alot.

I also have a parts list saved for an oil cooler setup. At that point i will also adding in oil pressure, oil & water temp guages

 

Today i got the steering wheel removed. Along with all of the srs equipment. That includes both airbags, harness, clockspring, srs module and cover intact. All in all, i removed 20lbs of weight. But the nrg wheel, race hub, and quick release weighed 4lbs. So 16lbs...woot woot









Will note that, the 350mm steering wheel is about half an inch short in diameter. Compared to the oem diameter

 

Theres a ton of weight in the dash.

 

Very nice. Your NRG wheel looks pretty similar to my Personal Neo Grinta (black leather with red stitching, also 350mm)

 

I bet. Losing alot of weight loss wont help my traction problems at the moment. With this more power, itll just have me spin more. After getting some better tires, and removing some more weight, will be considering a weighted plate for up front to help traction. And mounting some things.

Thanks dude. Really? After seeing a couple bad steering wheel failures, i was looking at personal/nardi, sparcos, and momo. I just didnt see any that really stood out to me. Especially for the price. However, i somehow landed on a video of the nrg guys doing some testing with different steering wheel under a press. After that, i was okay purchasing their wheel again.

For years i wanted an s2000 cluster, with a ctr steering wheel. But neither of those was gona happen.

 

I originally wanted to get an AP1 cluster for my EG as well, and saw that Ktuned even makes a nifty and convenient conversion harness for them now, but the price is simply too high. I decided to go with a Powertune digital dash and one of their 3D printed bezels which I think will come out really nice. Includes a bunch of instrument lights as well so it'll integrate very nicely.

 

Pics???

 

I'll take some when I'm home, I don't have it installed in the car yet but I have it sitting on my desk so I can customize a dash display on it.