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couple harness issues. Wires pulled out of pins at the tps and one coil.
Decided to do an ignition test before trying the trigger offset setup. All coils "worked", but two were weak. Rigged some safety wire to test the coils
Had my 9 year old help me by cycling the key. Kid could barely force the clutch pedal in. But we got it setup finally succesfully. 16 degrees of ignition with an trigger offset of 255 degrees. So relieving finally be able to do it
Turned the fuel back on. Did another injector test. Did 10 counts at 200hz instead of 100hz. And they were more audible which is what i wanted. Go to try and start it, and it sound "REALLY" good. But no start. During cranking injector duty cycle was only like .6% or .7%. Not to mention the two weak coils.
So whos got the deal on oem k coils. Speedfactory has a denso set for 189
Did and compression test. The one thats crazy high, was from alittle bit of oil still in the combustion chamber. From when i added some to to coat the walls. Love these compression numbers
Engine was also having start up issues due to the engine spinning 200RPMs or less. Cranking voltage on PClink sbowed 9.47volts. 0.0volts dropped across the starter coil. So decided to make some more 4ga positive cables to the fuse box and starter. Engine cranks right up now. But plugs got fouled out blowing the oil put of the cylinders.
Black starts and runs!!! Shitty ****** monday turned good. More and more towards end of the day. Tried some different settings. Did more research. A generic search lead to me to a link ecu resource page for the exact search. One thing lead to another. Found out i didnt know i was suppose to subtract my trigger offset angle by 360. Inputted new number fired right up.
engine smoked like a **** for a few. No coolant or oil cooler fitting or sandwich plate leaks. Have small leak which appears to be from the intermiate shaft tranny seal. But the color has me alittle confused. **** was too hot to stick my head in there good. For 1100 RPMs, the exhaust was really hot. Likely from me turning the ignition up to 16-18 degrees in the cells that i thought were problematic during the cranking no starts.
After the engine get cycled with no leaks and coolant bled, i can adjust the ignition delay
Last edited by ls joker; Mar 12, 2025 at 12:33 PM.
Turn off the o2 feeback till you get the tune dialed in. Why is your map at 8 psi at idle?
Link has a lambda setting called "run when stalled". That is turned off. I think thats what you mean? Otherwise id need to be able to log different RPMs to see what cells need adjustment on the AFR target parameter. (Not easily setup like hondata. Where you can click something, and itll show +/- whatever percentage needs changed for that cell. Atleast i currently believe.)
I was told and read a couple times, that the realistic measurement i am to look at is the "MGP" measurement. Still need to verify while running, but it read closer to the boost/vac gauge while cranking.
Finally, some ****** good luck coming my way. From the service manual and all the post i read for closer to 8 months, i found nothing that said the trigger offset you find with the timing light needs to be subtracted by 360 degrees. Atleast its running and feels like its running better from the changes ive made. Compared to the basemap sent to me. Just need to find exactly where this slight leak is coming from. I plan to use this birthday gift that i requested
Fucked up during assembly the shortblock components. Looped the small nipple coolant line off the water pipe to the pvc nipple. Not thinking tryin avoid looping it to the intake manifold. Coolant/oil got mixed. Got milky real quick. Im going to change the oil a few times to clean and flush everything out again.
Link has a lambda setting called "run when stalled". That is turned off. I think thats what you mean? Otherwise id need to be able to log different RPMs to see what cells need adjustment on the AFR target parameter. (Not easily setup like hondata. Where you can click something, and itll show +/- whatever percentage needs changed for that cell. Atleast i currently believe.)
I was told and read a couple times, that the realistic measurement i am to look at is the "MGP" measurement. Still need to verify while running, but it read closer to the boost/vac gauge while cranking.
Finally, some ****** good luck coming my way. From the service manual and all the post i read for closer to 8 months, i found nothing that said the trigger offset you find with the timing light needs to be subtracted by 360 degrees. Atleast its running and feels like its running better from the changes ive made. Compared to the basemap sent to me. Just need to find exactly where this slight leak is coming from. I plan to use this birthday gift that i requested https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Tes...%2C168&sr=8-24
You can change it to actual psi psi to make things clear for you any help let me know with tuning and target afr above 18 psi to 11.8 to 11.6 afr on pump gas, regarding timing offsets check the timing play at higher rpm if its drift @2000 3000 4000 5000rpm with timing light, my previous h22a run link i used to tune those ecu rive limits its hard to adjust but they made it smart like that to avoid wheel spin it well have some lag between shifting.
Got the leak from the rear main seal fixed. Removed and replaced the seized pilot bearing with a new throwout bearing. He-manned the tranny back up. Rest of the components reinstalled. Once the engine is running, its idle and runs great.
Still have an oil leak at the turbo feed side. The -3an female union fitting isnt sealing, and had oil seeping out the backside of the union fitting nut
Will have some minimally used b16 parts for sale also. Maybe 500 miles if that
Last edited by ls joker; Oct 20, 2024 at 01:32 PM.
Still waiting on last remaining fitting for the oil feed. And relay socekt for the tach booster. Otherwise today i installed a new valve cover gasket kit and fabbed a new timing cover heat shield. B16 ones are too short and the one for b18c1/5 are discontinued.
never noticed how close the manifold is to the inner timing belt cover. So made the decision to wrap in left over gold foil. To help aide from the radiant heat
Last edited by ls joker; Oct 22, 2024 at 10:12 AM.
Not enough voltage from the aftermarket ECUs to drive a high level tach. Its just a modified relay. Msd has a slightly different. Example below
setup.https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596
From my understanding, alot of oem tachs are high level tachs. Where the its source is from the coils negative. Or something like that. Im running a link g4x. Believe i read haltech requiring the same
From my understanding, alot of oem tachs are high level tachs. Where the its source is from the coils negative. Or something like that. Im running a link g4x. Believe i read haltech requiring the same
Haltech runs an OEM honda tach just fine. Active state is high (output voltage doesn't pull to ground) and 4 pulses per cycle.
OEM honda tach runs a low voltage pulse. OEM, you could run it off the NEP ignition trigger wire off the ECU or from the distributor, both providing the same voltage pulse. (but the NEP is what runs to the cluster and the ignition trigger runs to the distributor)
You sure the link won't run the tach as is?
https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/9334-tach-signal/ I think this guy guessed wrong. and he started a snowball of misinformation on the forums. I just read a bunch of threads and everyone refers to the link forum post. lol
Last edited by theYBLEGAL; Oct 25, 2024 at 07:32 AM.
My rpm source came from the the ecu not the distributor. Originally the rpm source was pinned with ignition1 at a21 or a22, cant remember which. After getting the g4x ecu wired, setup, the honed trigger kit installed and wired...,engine running... zero rpm on the tach. Ecu shows rpm, just not on the tach. Thats with the tach signal pinned at a21
Read a post prior on whichever haltech model having tach issues aswell. Person ended up needing a tach booster. The post was herasay posted on the g4x forum
Are you using a premade conversion harness? Did you assign the pinouts in the Link as per the harness instructions? Did you verify the tach output pin is connected to the NEP blue signal wire that runs to the dash in the EK civics? A21 runs to the ICM in the distributor, and the distributor does not run to the cluster in an EK.
Nah, i have a wireworx stage 2 milspec harness. Maybe stage 1 dont remember lol, and yup lol. Literally ran the same way when it was on hondata s300 with cop. Only thing that got swapped or repinned was the ignition coils signals, tach wire since that CPR module got deleted, bbg, trigger and home k series cam sensors at the dizzys pinouts, wideband setup on the canbus. Spent hours going over everything. Specially the ignition and trigger wiring. Shot got triple checked and verified when i was having other issues earlier on
Its been a good journey. Im sooo happy i made the switch from hondatas issues. Also that deleted the dizzy and went with the honed trigger kit. Theres such a difference just idling and alittle rpm. Going on its first drive tomorrow
Got the new engine and honed trigger kit idling and running great. First test drive was today. Everything is sooo much smoother. AFRs were decent from playing around with the fuel table prior multiple times. Just have to wire and setup the tach booster, change the oil, two more times, and address a coolant block fitting. Tune day is 11/4
Got the new engine and honed trigger kit idling and running great. First test drive was today. Everything is sooo much smoother. AFRs were decent from playing around with the fuel table prior multiple times. Just have to wire and setup the tach booster, change the oil, two more times, and address a coolant block fitting. Tune day is 11/4
I have a feeling you can get it the tach to work if you try. You also thought the trigger setup was right but one more look and you got the car running.
You have an EK and it did not get drivin by flyback voltage. The rpm source should be the ecu, not the honed trigger kit.
Re: ''simply BLACK''
