There was never a trigger issue lol. I was inputing the trigger offset incorrectly. Thought it was just find offset with a timing light when the 16 degree lines up. Then that the offset. Didnt realize that i had to subtract that number from 360. Found that last bit of info randomly on a different help file. Not in the service manual.

I never said the rpm source was from the trigger kit. I dont know where that thought came from. Already posted a couple times saying the source is and was from the ecu. Even stated that way back in the past. Directions and wiring were follow to the "T". The ecu is a link g4x plugin, not wire in. The output drive does not have the power to drive the tach. Link mods and techs have established that myself and other users on this platform require a tach booster. There ecu platforms arent all built the same. Hell theres better specs on the hc96x compared to the hc92x. I just made a quick jump to get myself in the standalone game. And didnt want to deal with getting another wireworx harness made to accomodate the wire in link platform. The hc92x literally drops into the oem ecu casing and plugs into the obd1 ecu connectors

 

I hear you but thats just so weird to me. I'm not trying to argue tho.

But yet I see posts like this https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/16320-tach-signal/

Even if its a plug in ecu, you have to configure the output pins functions sometimes. Ive had to do that on an sr20 plug in aem v2, as well as a speeduino plugin ecu on a miata just this year..neither had tach drive problems.

Good luck! I also dont want to see you fry your tach with too much voltage. I've done lots of jdm oriented setups and ive never needed a tach booster, it just sounds too odd to me

Are you saying the link is too weak or the tach is not 12v?

 

Yea the aux output still has to be selected. As the ignition drive(which it was it is wired too) apparently isnt enough from what i read.

Currently grilling, gona have to get back to the link posted in about an hour. But if i could get away from more wiring, id be all about it. Repinning would be great. Just no sure its on the menu. If you want, google hc92x tach signal. Similar hc92x tach searches.

 

Made up a jumper harness connection for the tach. Pinned the wires in the appropriate locations. Inputed some settings. Made some changes to the duty cycle and multiplier. Then that was all she wrote for this particular job.

All tasks and jobs complete, ready for tune day on monday





dont mind the white zip ties. Ran out of black ones

Edit...
At idle tach will occasionally flicker. And still have to do a final oil change for the torco oil🤦🏿‍♂️

 

Put black on the dyno. His first time tuning on the honed trigger kit. Made 420ish off wastegate creeping up to 18psi. At 7000rpm started having coolant pressure issues. Filling the reservoir and blowing out. Was officially done 480whp mustang dyno. Just kept overheating and blowing coolant out of the reservoir. Made more power everywhere compared to the 1.74L. I asked him to least put me where i was at last session, even with the problems i was having. He also mentioned that he wanted to get my knock control setup. Turbo is maxed anyway, if theres any power left on the table, its minimal. As i believe the turbo flows 55lbs/per near about 77 percent efficency

Pressure tested the cap with two different kits. Drops on both. Coolant systems holds 15psi good with no drop. Ordered at 1.5bar radiator cap this morning. Will throw graphs up later





2.0L 102 octane vs 1.74L 110 octane(cam2)

 

Nice numbers!! Did you figure out the coolant pressure issue yet?

 

Coolant system would hold 15psi fine. 1.3bar radiator cap was bad. Would loose pressure anything over 5-7psi. 1.5bar radiator cap helped. But still would fill the reservoir. However i could get more pulls outa the car before it would happen. Temps slightly raised once. Im certain i had headlift. Instead retorquing the studs, im just gona pull the head and inspect. Then replace the gasket. If the head lift, then the gasket is likely already compromised.

Speedfactory .04" headgasket is already on the way. I believe this one that failed was a golden eagle advanced. Would be the first time one of them has failed for me. Cometic failed twice back in the day. Je pro seal didnt have any issues. But wanted something with a tad more thickness.

Also in process of ordering a wideband knock sensor and having the hc92x ecu board modded for knock. As this plug in ecu didnt have knock available. Passenger side door panel and pioneer 6x9s(finally after sitting around for 12years) are also on the schedule for this winter

 

Have you thought about running another map sensor on the PCV system (blow by pressure)? Pressure sensor in the coolant system?

Head studs helicoiled? My friend's 500+ LS block pulled threads and was doing the same thing. We just finished helicoiling all of them. I wasn't super excited to be doing that, but after reading around, apparently the helicoil (or time serts) will increase clamping capacity...

 

Never really considered measuring crankcase pressure because of the whp level.

I have been really considering adding coolant pressure to the sensors for about two year now. Location would be at the thermostat housing using the speedfactory tstat housing. Since it has an 1/4npt port for it. I still would need to double check expansion pinout for addition of pressure sensors. From what i read in the past, i knew this was a good thing to have. But figured id cross that bridge when i got there. Just didnt think it would be at a power under 600whp.

Nah, the headstuds werent helicoiled, or atleast to my knowledge. Ramey found a core and did their machining for the 750whp build. Im gona be really pissed if i have to rip everything out and dissassemble again. Apart of me wonders if the inline pro m11 headstuds stretched a bit, and i really shouldve just ordered some L19 studs to begin with. Didnt have headlift issues on standard arp headstuds last go round, at the same whp level, with more boost thrown at it.

Lots of spectulation until i get in there. Gona start on it after i get back from new york next week

 

Yeah if I was gonna re-torque the studs may as well pull the head at that point and replace the HG for reassurance. I see you already got the SF gasket which I used before but I went with the oem modified HG from ramey this time around. So far with standard ARP's it's holding no problem on 22psi.

 

Good to know. We will see whats the issue when i pull the head off

Whos got the best or decent pressure transducer sensors. ******* are expensive as ****.

 

Update

drained the oil and coolant. Radiator cap had viton material underneath it. Pulled the head, hesdgasket failed between the cylinders. Likely from headlift. After the head was off, the studs were finger loose. Which couldve happened from just breaking the nuts free. Never had that happen before.



Inspected everything. Then installed my wideband knock sensor and ran the linkecu shielded cable. Installed the headgasket. This one was different, went with the speedfactory 4 layer one. Dropped the head and torqued it down. Called it quits after getting the manifold, turbo, and downpipe back on the studs. Back was starting to inflammed. Will have everything finished up within the next week.

 

Coolant pressure sensor helps a lot. You just need to get used to the numbers.

Will a knock sensor help with the octane youre running?

 

got the cam plates torqued and went to snug the outer 6mm seal bolts. ****** doesnt even snap. Just twisted off. Will have to get removed next time the head is removed from thr block. That way i dont get any shavings or material in the oil. Timing belt tensioned amd timed. Reinstalled the harmess and hoses.

Just need to do the wastegate with its plumbing, dumptube, turbo blanket, intake, fuel lines,and fill fluids. Had to give in today after more back issues

 

Everything got put back together. Bled the coolant, lower the car and took it for a spin. Third or fourth gear ramping into boost causes some break up. So the duty cycle will need adjusted on the table. Table currently has 39 set to every cell lol. Coolant temps didnt overheat. During a pull, theyll climb, but drop down quickly. Returned to the garage and popped the bleeder, and a few bubbles came out.

At this point i have to drain the shitty oil and fill with the torco sr1r oil. Let it run on jackstands to get hot. Then ill try to bleed the coolant some more. But afterwards, hot torque the headstuds.


Played with the fuel , IAT correction, and boost tables alittle bit. Chilly IATs had the AFRs near 9.5-10.

Knock sensor cable has been ran. And its down by the ecu. Thatll get shipped off at another time. But next projects will installing the ITR brake master cylinder and rear deck 6x9s.

 

Ugh... i ****** hate working with interior panels. Got all the panels, seat assembly, and upper deck removed. Installed the pioneer 6x9s that purchased back in 2012. Everything is back to sounding good with nospeaker distortion.





Also discovered recently that my driver side locking actuator is/has failed. Thatll be great tryin to source one down. Can manually pull the rod and itll unlock. But the switch or keyless button doesnt unlock the driver side. Passenger side works still

Finally, took my stepdaughter out for a small criuse last saturday to test and checkout my post and warm setting changes. Starts and warms up much nicer. Not pegged at 9-10 points AFR. However boost would not climb over or 18psi. So still working on my boost control settings. Made changes to the boost control PID settings couple nights ago. Will get in a drive this weekend. Hopefully get good results

 

Its been a dosey of month. Been picking at the parameters between getting remarried, other projects, and helping family. No matter what changes were made high boost would not kick in. Finally made a datalog. That showed the boost solenoid auxiliary port just staying inactive, but working in the ecu test input feature. Shoot the datalog off to the tuner, come to find out, its not activating because the target boost table is gear based. In which the gear ratio input wasnt setup on the dyno.

So the ecu does not know what speed or gear the car is in. Trying to use the ecu calculate feature was a bit of PITA. Each gear has to maintain a stabile rpm and speed for 3-12 seconds. With all the bumps and jerkiness of the car, it just kept saying error try again. Finally used the user defined route. Large numbers generated. Wrote them down, and inputed later. Test drive next day, and VIOLA, 30psi. Now just have to play with the PIDs a bit more, stabilize the boost curve, and lower the map limit back down.

pics and vids coming soon.

 

Update...

Got the bbg and all other quirks setup and sorted out. Sent out the ecu for the knock mod and recieved it back. Got the wideband knock sensor pigtail wired up to the ecu.

Today i finally installed the Type R brake master cylinder referred to me from @spAdam . Also i used some extra flanged intake manifold nuts i had along with lock washers, instead of the basic nut. Bench bled the master cylinder after it was mounted. Then installed the brake lines and bled the brakes with the assistance of my wife in the driver seat. OMG the pedal pressure has significantly increased, even with engine vacuum.









LRB door panels ordered to remove and preserve my oem door panels. Plan to wrap them in 3m s261 material once they show up.

 

Nice! Having the right size MC makes a huge difference.

Not sure how I got unsubscribed to this thread.

You ever get your coolant pressure sensor figured out? There’s a couple easy ways to go about it - I ended up using the Bosch dual sensor on mine.

I noticed you had trouble with the gear calcs too. I still haven’t gotten mine to work. The numbers I got from data aren’t anything like the ones in the base cal and the ecu still doesn’t recognize what gear it’s in. I’m kind of lost.

 

Its been awhile for coolant issues. But i ended up removing the tractuff swirl pot. No breather port on it(yet!!!). I would push coolant again when i ran the swirl pot. Prolly shouldve bought a second stiffer radium cap. But gave up on that after switching back to just hoses. Have been thinking about having someone weld a bung setup to add a bleeder on it, then try again. Sensor wise, still using the oem sensor in the head. Also decided not to get the dual temp/pressure sensor/guage setup, because eventually ive gona convert to the link display pod.

I can help you with the gear calc table. My numbers got me spot on!!! But its for a b16 tranny. Ive never known what tranny you have. If you have a b16 tranny, you can simply input my numbers(but should still do the operation to learn the task). If its a different tranny, then itll be a easy learning experience.

Im gona eat dinner real quick then ill post up detailed screen shots

 

-I would first setup a gear tab, page, whatever you want to call it. And setup it up like below besides the gear measurements unless you have a b16 tranny with Type R final drive like me lol


-Next is setting up a timeplot for datalogging. That way you can go back for ease. Right click on the timeplot, then click on properties. Id added gear and current gear ratio. On a group, youll have to click on add parameter. Then the drop down arrow for chassis and body, then the drop down arrow for gear detection. Highlighting and adding current gear ratio. Same action for gear status.












-Timeplot should now look like below

-now you can do a datalog. Trying to keep RPMs stable for each gear. Will be pretty easy to view and catch the measurements for each gear on the datalog

-can also setup your mixture map tab with digital guages for quick viewing while driving using the same right click properties selections like you did on the timeplot

 

Received my panels in last nite. Got one side glued and cut out. Had to get more glue this morning to do the other side. Passenger side window switch had to be redrilled. Due the holes being off. Mounted the rest of the switches and speakers onto the panels. Prepped the doors and installed them. They were a TIGHT fit. Driver side had to come off a few times, didnt have enough slack on the lock switch, pulled the hard oem wires right outa the pins at the connector. Luckily i have lots of pins and pigtails from reworking the ecu pins and engine connectors in the past. The project came out really good with the fabric a close match. Also finally charged the go pro camera























ignore the busted *** 26 year old seats. Been trying to find some 8th gen ex coupe seats to swap in. Just like the 8th gen si seats, except grey cloth.