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Update, so today i was shown how much of a pain it is to dail in a 4 port solenoid. On one run at a certain duty cycle, we would hit 23psi. On another run, no measurement changes, the solenoid would spike to 27psi. Even though IATs did not move. Turned the quick spool off and the car still spools just as fast with it on. All in all, im happy. I went in wanting to make 440whp, .....made 422whp/ 264wtq on their mustang dyno, which only reads to 9200 lol. So at my 9500 rev limit, its prolly closer to 430whp.
meant to hit gears masters dynojet later in the day but i was beat.
todays results
from the last tune i relocated the IAT sensor, added a turbo intake, hondata CPR & BBG, and skunk2 76mm. Here is the comparison between last tune and today results, with the quick spool turned off!
vids after i get settled down later
Came across a few threads with VitViper quoted below! Emaile VitViper and had a little talk he said the 46 series mac solenoids are garbage, that's the one I have on my car and I have the same issues ls joker, tuner stated the adjustments for the duty cycle were very sensitive. Gonna try VitVipers 4 port in a few months hopefully. Even with my BBG not dialed in 100% it still made a dramatic difference in traction, case and point ran a 12.1 @123 on 205/50/15 street tires. Peep my lastest thread video is in there ls joker.
"The 4 ports are hardly "touchy" if you buy the right one. There are a couple models of the "4 port", and if you picked up the wrong series 4 port, you've done and fucked yourself.
And yes, I've used the 4 ports on everything from street cars on 3psi springs to race cars on 10psi. The control & response is very good, not touchy at all, and a very large range of usability. Not to mention much better transient boost response and initial onset of boost/spool. There are absolutely zero negatives about using a 4 port over a 3 port, and plenty of negatives of using a 3 port.
@OP, what part #is on the one you have, where did you get it?
If you got it on eBay, you got the wrong one. If you got it from someone that doesn't specialize in boost control stuff (had a local race car pick one up from "someone on the east coast" that got the wrong series valve and had TERRIBLE control issues), you probably got the wrong one.
@D-Rob, my 10 second DC2 runs a 3psi spring. These are the settings with the 4 port: 38% 12psi, 43% ~16.5psi, 54% ~22psi, 58% ~24psi. This is at 31hz and the results are REPEATABLE (no jumps in boost control back and forth) not just pull to pull, but day to day within ~1psi. If you need any tips on the 4 ports, give me a shout, I'm happy to help. My friend's 9 second EG runs a 10psi spring and my 4 port (well, til he put it into the wall this summer @ IFO) and every pass was dead nuts repeatable and excellent response, he was running 36-38psi @ ~65-66% duty cycle or so.
Myles from English Racing here locally runs the 4 port I gave him a long while back on his DC2 that he runs @ shift sector, I have yet to hear any complaints from him, only got great feedback (and yes, they were worried about response/control initially). They actually asked me for another one for their GTR shortly after that.
I also make a little electronic gadget that improves KPro/S300 and *especially* FlashPro PWM circuits that run these solenoids, giving you even finer control, with the 3 ports and the 4 ports."
Came across a few threads with VitViper quoted below! Emaile VitViper and had a little talk he said the 46 series mac solenoids are garbage, that's the one I have on my car and I have the same issues ls joker, tuner stated the adjustments for the duty cycle were very sensitive. Gonna try VitVipers 4 port in a few months hopefully. Even with my BBG not dialed in 100% it still made a dramatic difference in traction, case and point ran a 12.1 @123 on 205/50/15 street tires. Peep my lastest thread video is in there ls joker.
"The 4 ports are hardly "touchy" if you buy the right one. There are a couple models of the "4 port", and if you picked up the wrong series 4 port, you've done and fucked yourself.
And yes, I've used the 4 ports on everything from street cars on 3psi springs to race cars on 10psi. The control & response is very good, not touchy at all, and a very large range of usability. Not to mention much better transient boost response and initial onset of boost/spool. There are absolutely zero negatives about using a 4 port over a 3 port, and plenty of negatives of using a 3 port.
@OP, what part #is on the one you have, where did you get it?
If you got it on eBay, you got the wrong one. If you got it from someone that doesn't specialize in boost control stuff (had a local race car pick one up from "someone on the east coast" that got the wrong series valve and had TERRIBLE control issues), you probably got the wrong one.
@D-Rob, my 10 second DC2 runs a 3psi spring. These are the settings with the 4 port: 38% 12psi, 43% ~16.5psi, 54% ~22psi, 58% ~24psi. This is at 31hz and the results are REPEATABLE (no jumps in boost control back and forth) not just pull to pull, but day to day within ~1psi. If you need any tips on the 4 ports, give me a shout, I'm happy to help. My friend's 9 second EG runs a 10psi spring and my 4 port (well, til he put it into the wall this summer @ IFO) and every pass was dead nuts repeatable and excellent response, he was running 36-38psi @ ~65-66% duty cycle or so.
Myles from English Racing here locally runs the 4 port I gave him a long while back on his DC2 that he runs @ shift sector, I have yet to hear any complaints from him, only got great feedback (and yes, they were worried about response/control initially). They actually asked me for another one for their GTR shortly after that.
I also make a little electronic gadget that improves KPro/S300 and *especially* FlashPro PWM circuits that run these solenoids, giving you even finer control, with the 3 ports and the 4 ports."
Yea ive been eyeing your thread for the last couple weeks since your retune. Track vid was good ****. Whatever happen to you building a turbo k setup.
yea that quoted conversion was interesting. No i dont, wouldnt believe its an ebay soleniod. Considering i bought it from xenocron with their pwm kit.
honestly i have maybe 75miles on the car since ive installed the soleniod late last year. Ive only have gotten one decent datalog where the tires arent spinning. Literally drove the car one time since it was tuned. The settings above are as of now. So far i have what duty cycle is what psi. Never had an issue like when we were on the dyno, where it may or may not spike 4psi.
tuner stated that he wasnt familiar with hondata BBg boost control configurations. Hence him having it set to open. I assuming subarus, evos, and aem are all open configuration.
i also didnt notice the random spike last year when i originally had it closed. Which from what i read, theyre pose to be closed.
the car isnt blown up. i just havent been posting. since the last post ive takin the wastegate apart to verify springs and check the diaphram. i had 18 pounds of spings in the gate. no rips on the diaphram. the polyethylene lines were somewhat melted to the push lock fitting internally. and the solenoid had like some black crud on port B.
after redoing the lines, and installing a 5psi springs, there has been no improvement. in fact its worse on each drive. so i ordered a new 4 port solenoid from vit tuned. aswell as new vibrant fittings. should finish up on the install sometime this week. it just been so hot.
FWIW the plastic fittings to lock line are less prone to melt in comparison to the SS fittings to lock lines. I've had (reused multiple times) the same fittings in my car since 08-09. The SS ones would melt the line inside of the fitting and lock it up; where as I've never had that issue w/ the plastic bodies (use them for fab everyday here)
FWIW the plastic fittings to lock line are less prone to melt in comparison to the SS fittings to lock lines. I've had (reused multiple times) the same fittings in my car since 08-09. The SS ones would melt the line inside of the fitting and lock it up; where as I've never had that issue w/ the plastic bodies (use them for fab everyday here)
dude,... thats exactly what happened. except, theres was pretty decent size holes. where i couldve had a nasty leak from. i got the fittings from fastenal. i figured the all steel body help transfer unwanted heat. bout to go rewire the new solenoid in a bit. but wont be able to test drive til tonite or monday morning.
P.S. what about the S.S. straight push lock fittings. vibrant utilized what appears to be the same material for straight.
still on here daily multiple time lol. Just never post. Car still runs good. Ive just been busy tryin to dial the settings in for boost control. Ive got the inconsistancies down to 1-1.5psi betaeen different pulls. So i can work with that. So now that i got that out of the way, i decided to get 2017 official dynojet measurements lol.
Thanks, graph is all fubarred from being in not being in rpm. And no torque readout.
Possibly gona start hardwiring the fuel pump next week since the injector duty cycle is maxxed. If im doin that, mite aswell get setup for some kinda of racegas. And move off the 93octane.
whats out there now, whats the difference. Gona be lookin up q16 and 110 later. We did have racegas sold locally at speedway bout 8years ago
oh wow. If you are going to upgrade the wiring and change fuel then I'd def go ahead and just go to a larger pump as well.
thats what soto says lol. Still tryin to decide what fuel to run.
nah the vitviper soleniod reacts the same way. Hertz is set at 30. Most likely gona set it to 25hz and leave.
it spiked today to 27psi then tapered to 25 pretty quick.
New diapharm (old one had pin holes), vibrant performance metal/plactic body fittings, switched to a different tubing material from polyethylene.
Got the downpipe off for a weld repair.
word for the wise, dont spray rust mort on your hot parts. It kills rust and acts as a seelant. If you do use it, wipe it evenly. What it did to my hot parts was kill the surface rust and the goldish looking color. Returning it to hue before it sees heat from welding or EGTs. Hence the discoloration in areas on my hot parts. Kinda pushed me to jump on ceramic coating my parts lol.
05-13-2017, 12:37 PM
Re: ''simply BLACK''
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that's getting it done!
