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Nice, glad you left us or sold the car haha. Awesome news on the leak. Can't wait to see more details of the rebuild. Are you all set with charcoal canisters? I was hanging onto a couple of em in case you wanted one but might chuck them if you don't need them. Let me know. I would love to see this car in person sometime!
Will you shoot me a PM with your digits? It would be great to get in touch with you about getting one of these cans!
I will detail how I hooked things up this time, but it would be cool to get in touch...
Thanks!
Will you shoot me a PM with your digits? It would be great to get in touch with you about getting one of these cans!
I will detail how I hooked things up this time, but it would be cool to get in touch...
Thanks!
Back to the updates...
New valve cover gaskets and buttons, and then we are ready for plugs and distributor and plug wires.
Not getting too many answers to the questions I post in here, which is part of the benefit of a public forum, but I will try again - what do folks think about the Irridium spark plugs?
I have seen them called for in other vehicles, and the parts store guy swore by them. No complaints so far about their performance.
Earlier I was mentioning a random loss of power https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid...ic-si-3284320/ so I thought I would try to replace any and all sources of possible vacuum leak - including the o-ring for the MAP sensor.
NAPA p/n's 9555 for the upper, and 9556 for the lower.
Pretty sure that corresponds to GSR upper and Del sol VTEC lower.
The hose adapters wanted to roll up b/c I had placed them on the radiator inlets and outlets while the radiator was out of the car. I had to go back and pull the adapters and insert them into the hoses so they wouldn't get bunched up.
Last edited by 94 Civic Si; Jan 21, 2024 at 10:24 AM.
I spent a lot of time studying the different evap systems in play on my swap:
Originally Posted by 94 Civic Si
I really wanted to know how Acura set up the vacuum lines/evap/coolant lines on the '96 B18C1, so I threw down for a Helms manual, and now I know.
Small differences, but different indeed from what the FSM for '94 and '98 shows.
From the '96 Service Manual:
Fuel tank vapor control system (evap)
Throttle body (no distinction btwn B18C1 and B18B, note the FITV is for auto tranny only in '96 - why?)
Vacuum connections
Cooling hoses
So I can be confident that I have a '95 TB, since it has the vacuum port up top, and an LS FITV which could be used from '94 to '01 on LS or GS w/ A/T - more details here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...-fitv-3287577/
In '96 the charcoal can just had one hose in from the 2-way valve at the gas tank, and on hose going out to the evap purge solenoid. I wonder why they got rid of the vacuum diaphragm at the can? I wonder why they went to the 3-way valve at the charcoal can?
For my OBD I TB + OBD II evap purge solenoid in the OBD I EH3 body, I am going to have to get some vacuum hose adapters to go from 6 to 8mm to connect my charcoal can lines - diaphragm and purge to my TB and evap purge.
Clear as mud?
and
Originally Posted by 94 Civic Si
I know this is not a huge concern to others, so perhaps I am the only one in this boat. I do want to be able to button this up quickly once I get the intake back in. It was a real PITA when this car would either smell like raw gas, or be unable to idle smoothly if I tried a day of stop-n-go traffic when the temps were in the 90's.
This will be a big improvement if I understand how the charcoal canister should be connected to the TB and purge solenoid.
Placeholder for now:
are the most useful summaries.
After this study I got some vacuum hose adapters and hooked things up. So far the car does not stumble, and I only noticed fuel vapors once after I parked it and it was hot and the tank was about 1/2 full.
I look forward to looking at @wxman94ej1 charcoal canister that he mentions here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post51140330
Before I did the initial start, I thought I would check numbers to make sure things were sealing alright.
Obviously the engine is not warm, and the rings are not broken in, but a nice improvement from before the build when compression was coming in ~185 p.s.i.
Ranges from 205 to 215.
So glad I'm not dealing with an Evap system. I thought you were doing more of a budget rebuild. This looks like it got expensive. Looks great, though.
Dude! Good to see you...
After all the brain damage, I think I got the evap dicked.
Yeah, it was supposed to be low-budget, but a lot of things warranted replacement. I really had not done much to her since the swap in 2002 - 15 years ago!
Plugs go back in, and then get ready to fire up...
I did indulge myself in one little piece of bling on this build, in spite of how the paint on the car looks. I saw this piece sitting on eBay and it was just sitting there, so I finally bought it.
If stickers are worth +5 HP, this should be worth at least 10 or 15 HP...
I can't tell y'all how happy I was when I got a look at things from this perspective!
This is obviously not dyed oil. It is not Honda blue anti-freeze either. I did not clean the inside of the header and my friend the pro-wrench said all kinds of old funk is on the inside of the header and some is just oozing out at the flange now that she is tight and hot (!?!).
So I will re-torque the header flange a few times and hope she seals up. I cannot detect any loss of oil or coolant with under hood checks. I do need to check all my oil pan bolts for tightness and clean everything well with some brake clean - hopefully next weekend.
I did get to re-torque the header flange last weekend and shoot some brake-clean up at the bottom of the head. I can't see any evidence of a leak on the side of the block so far. Next time I can, I will put it up on ramps and look at the bottom of the head.
Back to the updates...
New valve cover gaskets and buttons, and then we are ready for plugs and distributor and plug wires.
Not getting too many answers to the questions I post in here, which is part of the benefit of a public forum, but I will try again - what do folks think about the Irridium spark plugs?
I have seen them called for in other vehicles, and the parts store guy swore by them. No complaints so far about their performance.
I have not used the Iridium spark plugs, but I have read good things. In my B16A I just double checked that when I replaced them last I used NGK (3141) PFR6L-13 Laser Platinum Spark Plug, which were a direct replacement of what I removed from the engine. Is the value of the Iridium supposed to be super long life? I didn't do a whole lot of research at the time so I'm not extremely well-versed in the different plugs but I know there are a few options out there.
I haven't heard terrible things about the Iridium plugs, but from my research the regular copper NGK's seem to work the best for people, although you do have to change them much more often than the Iridiums. Either way you're probably fine. Engine bay looks super nice, good job!
I have not used the Iridium spark plugs, but I have read good things. In my B16A I just double checked that when I replaced them last I used NGK (3141) PFR6L-13 Laser Platinum Spark Plug, which were a direct replacement of what I removed from the engine. Is the value of the Iridium supposed to be super long life? I didn't do a whole lot of research at the time so I'm not extremely well-versed in the different plugs but I know there are a few options out there.
The guy at the parts store said it was a much cooler plug, so if I heard him correctly I can stuff more advance in the timing, which might be fun. Right now I am running the next line over from the red mark on the crank pulley, but at our altitude we can take more advance...
I haven't heard terrible things about the Iridium plugs, but from my research the regular copper NGK's seem to work the best for people, although you do have to change them much more often than the Iridiums. Either way you're probably fine. Engine bay looks super nice, good job!
Thanks! I knew the Iridium plug w/ 7mm electrode was OE in the 100 series Land Cruisers, so I thought it was acceptable to try. I just don't know how long the 6mm electrode will last. The 7mm electrodes are alleged to last 120k miles.
It is nice to get to spend some time in here and get ideas for future projects.
I have noticed that the sunroof needs some love; to get the Tilt feature to work, I need to press up on the back of the sun/moon roof panel with my right hand. When the roof panel is closed, I see it does not line up evenly with the metal roof surrounding the panel.
Here are some nice threads I found in here regarding service to the sun/moon roof:
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
