JBBNJ609

ok so i got the right rotors from fast brakes, got the right calipers from advance auto parts ( 2 piston legend calipers)

i grind off the lip like instructed at this how to : http://www.gs-r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5477

the rotor is still rubbing the caliper alittle . . i grind the lip more, it doesnt make a diff

insight and more info would be great guys, i need to have this shitbox car able to roll out soon

thanks everyone

btw: make sure you use eye protection when grinding off, my eye is def fudged up right now but should be fine now that the metal is out

_

the inside of the rotor is touching th caliper bracket, i rotated the calipers( left on the rigth and right on the left) it wont stop rubbing and i machined it down . . what about putting a washer on each of my lugs ( under the rotor) to push it out just alittle bit ??
is that safe and or will it work ??

ive bee working at trying to make these calipers work for about 2 or 3 days now and i need help please

Big Phat R

Brakes - Aftermarket
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=725969 - Brembo
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=763573 - DC5 Brembo
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=665984 - TL Brembo
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=578725 - ATS
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=743266 - NSX
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720430 - NSX
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=610835 - NSX
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=482434 - NSX
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=291367 - NSX
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=239844 - NSX
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=349039 - NSX/Legend
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=409290 - Legend
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=716441 - Spoon

Dan GSR

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560

Todd Reid

hi there.

i run this setup on my civic. i have GSR knucles, 94 prelude vtec rotors (redrilled to fit 4 x 100), and Accord wagon LX calipers (Type R calipers).

i machined the caliper brackets down 0.120", if i remember correctly. i did it on a mill, so that the surface was flat and true when done. are you sure that when you hand grinded the calipers you kept them true? i don't think it would take a whole lot of angle on there to **** the brake caliper and have it interfere with the rotor....

i would most definitely NOT use "washers" to space out the brake rotor; if you must, for some reason, i'd make a custom spacer on the lathe; maybe start with an old GSR front disk, cut off the disk part leaving only the flat hub part (like one humungous washer with 4 holes in it for the lug bolts). then, using the lathe, machine it down to the right thickness....

but, i will reiterate, when i made my brake kit, i needed no such spacer. i think something is wrong, and it most likely has to do with your manually grinding technique.

good luck; brakes is something you want to get right the first time, not the 2nd time!!!!!

JBBNJ609

well i used a dremel to remove the lip so its not perfect, i didnt know it had to be perfect, i thought it just needed to be not rubbing . . . **** what shoudl i do now?? i just want the setup to work

btw i have read alot of those threads but it didnt really help that much, and for dan gsr i did read yours too but it says shave the inner lip but thats not whats rubbing on mine . . and isnt your right up for the itr calipers ??

thanks for the help guys

Dan GSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jason bouchard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i used a dremel to remove the lip so its not perfect,</TD></TR></TABLE>

yikes, your going to have to get new brackets

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jason bouchard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> dan gsr i did read yours too but it says shave the inner lip but thats not whats rubbing on mine </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jason bouchard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the inside of the rotor is touching the caliper bracket, </TD></TR></TABLE>

?? you contradicted yourself, your supposed to grind the inside of the caliper bracket, to make the clearance cut

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jason bouchard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and isnt your right up for the itr calipers ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

doesn't matter, its the same process
even if you get the rotor to clear, you will have horrible brake shudder, trust me, i know from experience

read my how to again, it should make more sense, now that you know WHY the bracket needs to be shaved down

JBBNJ609

what if i get the lips machined right ?? the top inside of the pad holder is where its rubbing, im gonna take pics later when i get home, this is horrible and not what i was expecting at all . . .


EDIT: all these threads that people keep giving me suck, they have 20 diff things going on at once and half the info said isnt even right . . .

B HATCH

It it just me but...

I just measured some spare stock TEG calipers i have the piston size is 58 mm and the threads listed says that the NSX calipers were 40mm and 36 mm. So that makes total piston area for the NSX 3.468 in(squared) and the stock Teg on 3.974 in ^2.

More braking pressure on the pad on a teg caliper, so more torque and more stop.

Someone please correct me cause this seems odd.

JBBNJ609

yea that could be true, but alot of people do this mod mostly for the larger sized rotor and more pad area . . i did it because my stock brakes werent what ive hoped for

and im changing out the rears with ep3s as well

Dan GSR

IMO, the outside of the caliper bracket, shouldn't be a place to take off material

it just makes the piston extend more

.RJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More braking pressure on the pad on a teg caliper, so more torque and more stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That might be true if you werent completely traction limited by your tires.

JBBNJ609

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, the outside of the caliper bracket, shouldn't be a place to take off material

it just makes the piston extend more</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are right, here is some pics, i retract my statments from before, i do need to shave the inside of the caliper braket heres pics of where its touching as well as my SHITTTY dremel job ( i know its bad please dont make me feel worse about it)

the red circle is where its rubbing or atleast seems REALLY close . . i really wanna try and salvage this braket, i am alittle bit out of money at this time and dont wanna have to buy a new braket if i can. . . im trying to get this **** box car ready to be tuned and running on the 14th over at boosted hybrids(jeff evans )

JBBNJ609

bump

STN_Pat

Use a 3mm spacer between the hub andthe rotor. I would no grind the bracket with a dremel

RagingAngel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a 3mm spacer between the hub andthe rotor. I would no grind the bracket with a dremel </TD></TR></TABLE>

I 2nd that notion..... I'm pretty sure that's how Spoon offers a kit to run their calipers on the EG6....

You might also want to try and IM G3-TEG cuz he's running this:



I vaguely recall him mentioning the spacer between the hub/rotor....cuz I lent him those NSX ChAluPaz Good luck

JBBNJ609

so where would i get a spacer like this??

i will also try pming him ty

Andrie Hartanto

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a 3mm spacer between the hub andthe rotor. I would no grind the bracket with a dremel </TD></TR></TABLE>

You actually only need 1.5mm spacer.

Please don't use ITR rotors if you are running NSX or legend brakes. The caliper and the bracket is design to take 28mm min thickness rotor. With ITR 21mm min thickness, you are running the risk of the pads shooting out of the caliper when you wear them down.

.RJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Please don't use ITR rotors if you are running NSX or legend brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Many people have done this without issue... street, track, autox, etc

Andrie Hartanto

do what you want. But a 7mm difference is a lot.

.RJ

28 - 23 = 5mm. At that point, the pads are done anyways and should be tossed.

JBBNJ609

im running thick fast brakes, redrilled legend rotors BTW

Evs-One

run Prelude VTEC rotors only!!! 4x114.3, so when redrilled to 4x100, the new lug pattern is evenly spaced over the rotor! Through my work, the rotors are only 14 bucks a piece from Napa, about 20 if you walk in off the street. And unloaded Prelude calipers(same as ITR/CRV, etc) are 47!!!! Super cheap brake upgrade!!!

And what I did is run 3mm spacers between the rotor and the hub. I got them from http://www.prestigewheel.com . I had to modify the outer diamteter a little smaller ti fit inside the rotor, but other than that it was kewl

JBBNJ609

so where can i get this spacer ?? and what about small washers on each lug stud ??
someone said that they tryed it and were ok

Evs-One

washers on the lugs is NOT safe. THink about the surface area NOT meeting between the wheel and the hub!!

I already posted.... http://www.prestigewheel.com can get you the spacers

JBBNJ609

ty sir but what size should i get for spacers ???

im lost on which ones are the right ones for me