~sp33~

How's that for competition!

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Literally the only thing that determines where I go is which way I'm driving. Well, sometimes I see one of my friends at Advanced (he works there) so I'll stop in and chat with him over going somewhere else.

I'll call and see who has a warranty on axles.

I was just debating on what I want to do about the trans fluid. But this is the half shaft side... so I do nothing haha.

BLU CIVIC

Creator

iTrader: (1)

LOL! (at^^^)
I can't believe your still having this problem almost a year later. That would drive me nuts.
Maybe you could do like you did in the video, except with a jack under the control arm to compress the suspension.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah! Well, I have 3 cars. I drove my VW until the carb pooped out on me. Then I started driving my Chevy. It's not that noticeable at 35-45 mph and I don't drive far. My round trip is about 3-4 miles per day.

I replaced the passenger side axle because.... well... I effed it up when I was doing the swap. And I thought that would fix it. Maybe I jacked this side up too. I'm going to replace it tomorrow afternoon.

Worst case scenario it's something with the wheel bearing and I suck at diagnosing it.

Also, BLU, that's hilarious. Mines not that ridiculous.

~sp33~

Could be, once you pull the driveshaft out, put the knuckle back into the lower control arm, bolt it up and put your wheel back on. It should spin nice and easy, no free play with your hands north and south of the wheel and there should be no 'grinding' while it's rotating.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

So I went to replace my axle, had it all ready


Bust off the axle nut


Remove that PITA lower ball joint (I was doing the socket trick, it was just denting my tools though. IT was super stuck) And saw this when I went to pry the axle out of the half shaft.



I believe it is the inner tie rod end? Or some part of my steering rack. Regardless, the boot is torn. I am under the new impression that this is causing the vibration in my steering wheel while turning left. Does this make sense?

Also, what should I replace?

I guess that seems like an obvious question, but I'm not sure if I should replace just the inner, the whole tie rod, or if there is a piece of the rack that needs to be replaced. I'll blow it up on a honda parts viewer and look. But input is appreciated.

~sp33~

Did you end up replacing the driveshaft? Or are you returning it?

There's a fair few things to check in the workshop manual under 'steering'. Did you say you tried jacking the wheel up and rocking it to see if there's any free play? Rocking it with your hands east west with the opposite side wheel on the ground is a good way of checking play in tie rods.

Does your pwr steer reservoir still have fluid?

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Nope, returning it.

I will do the test like you said. I checked the wheel bearings prior and they were fine.

I don't have power steering.

~sp33~

You can't install it, check if it fixes the problem, then return it? haha. A bung tie rod or steering rack isn't going to cause the "wont spin freely" problem that your wheel alignment guy was experiencing.

JustOneOrTwoPosts

I'm a little confused here. You are showing pictures of your steering rack, but everyone keeps mentioning your axles. I would take care of that steering issue also. I replaced my "rack end bushing" inside the steering rack and it fixed my "clunking" noise when going over bumps and/or turning. Not sure if this is the same issue you might be having, but worth looking into. Good luck.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

This issue is really old. I updated the thread instead of making a new one.

The symptom is the same. Rattling or vibration in my steering wheel and the car shakes while turning left.

I had my passenger side axle replace and it fixed 80% of the issue. I was going to replace the driver side but when I got under to pry it out of the half shaft I saw this.

I guess I should try and remake this thread since the comments are misleading.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

The won't spin freely has been fixed on the passenger side. I will test this axle anyways though. Since I still have it. It started raining while I was under the car.

~sp33~

Good luck!

Riceburner247

iTrader: (1)

Since you were going to replace your drivers side axle anyways, do that first. Then see how the problem is.

The only thing worth replacing on the steering rack are the rubber boots and the Rack End Bushing on the passenger side of it.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I guess I need a rubber boot then. I honestly have been super busy and it's been storming so I haven't looked up much or spent any time outside with the car.

Thanks for the help though. I'll find out if I can nab a boot from the store.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Bringing this back up.

CV axle was replaced and performed quite well. However, the shaking is back. IS there something that could be destroying my driver side CV axle? I've got no clue why is it shaking again. Same exact thing.

~sp33~

Just saw this video actually, that's some crazy wear on your brake rotor i thought it was the back of the car when i first started watching it because the contact patch is so small. Are your pads sitting in the caliper properly?

Also that suspension movement is worrying. Now that you're pro at removing axles i'd take it out, bolt your suspension back up again and rotate the hub assembly (with no axle in it) like you're doing in this vid to confirm that it is actually the driveshaft causing this binding and not another part of the rotating assembly.

~sp33~

Did the new axle fix the problem in the video?

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

That was the passenger side in the video. I had that one replaced 'professionally' because of time restraints. The wobble got much better. Have not checked it.

I replaced the driver side myself. I will jack up the car and check the passenger side again and remove the axle if needed. Unfortunately, I won't be replacing it until next week at best. I have a lot of stuff this weekend.


EDIT:

Could bad motor mounts be the cause of my issue? The more and more I look at mine, the less and less I believe they are HASport or even AVID motor mounts. They have no real markings. They are silver and the black inserts are kind of rough. They don't fill the motor mount area very well actually. There is a gap between the mount and the chassis.

With that said, that rear motor mount is a PITA to replace.