What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods =>
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What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods =>
Hi,everyone!
So I want to run my D16Z6 a bit quicker <U>without</U> TURBO setup & NOS (too expensive for me now).
Want to hear your suggestions about "what's next to be done".
Current setup for my EG hatch:
Engine: D16Z6
Cam: ZEX 59300
Valve springs: JGE VALVE SPRINGS & TITANIUM RETAINERS
Cam gear: AEM 5 bolt (currently 0 degrees)
Flywheel: lightened OEM
Intake: custom air intake with D16Y8 intake manifold
Exhaust header: OBX 4-2-1
Exhaust pipe with straight muffler and no cat converter: 2.25"
Ignition: New distributor with Arospeed spark wires and NGK patinum plugs.
ECU: P28 "Crome" tuned
Have not been to dyno yet, but 0-100 km/h (~7sec) it's about 0-60 mph (~6,9).
Any comments?
So my plans for the nearest future:
*Milled head and thinner head gasket
*Fidanza aluminium flywheel 7lbs
Few questions to answer:
As I know D16Z6 have low piston compression 9.2:1 Will it help to run ZEX cam better if I'll rise compression?
Is D16Y8 head gasket thinner than D16Z6?
So I want to run my D16Z6 a bit quicker <U>without</U> TURBO setup & NOS (too expensive for me now).
Want to hear your suggestions about "what's next to be done".
Current setup for my EG hatch:
Engine: D16Z6
Cam: ZEX 59300
Valve springs: JGE VALVE SPRINGS & TITANIUM RETAINERS
Cam gear: AEM 5 bolt (currently 0 degrees)
Flywheel: lightened OEM
Intake: custom air intake with D16Y8 intake manifold
Exhaust header: OBX 4-2-1
Exhaust pipe with straight muffler and no cat converter: 2.25"
Ignition: New distributor with Arospeed spark wires and NGK patinum plugs.
ECU: P28 "Crome" tuned
Have not been to dyno yet, but 0-100 km/h (~7sec) it's about 0-60 mph (~6,9).
Any comments?
So my plans for the nearest future:
*Milled head and thinner head gasket
*Fidanza aluminium flywheel 7lbs
Few questions to answer:
As I know D16Z6 have low piston compression 9.2:1 Will it help to run ZEX cam better if I'll rise compression?
Is D16Y8 head gasket thinner than D16Z6?
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Re: What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods => (roberts)
kinda a waste of time imo if your not going to turbo it or something... should invest or save the money and invest in a b series.
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Re: What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods => (john666)
Yeah,but it's already invested so it's would be waste of money to sell it now..
What could be done to make it drive faster?
Few questions to answer:
As I know D16Z6 have low piston compression 9.2:1 Will it help to run ZEX cam better if I'll rise compression?
Is D16Y8 head gasket thinner than D16Z6?
What could be done to make it drive faster?
Few questions to answer:
As I know D16Z6 have low piston compression 9.2:1 Will it help to run ZEX cam better if I'll rise compression?
Is D16Y8 head gasket thinner than D16Z6?
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Re: What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods => (roberts)
supposedly the Y8 gasket is thinner. I just bought some D16A6 pistons for my Y8. It'll raise compression to like 10.35:1 or something like that. Cheap mod. Might want to look into it. Also look into flat faced valves instead of the stock dished ones. That will also raise compression.
PNP you should definitely do. Get a Fuel pressure regulator and think about a bigger TB. Possibly an Integra OEM one (stock on civics is 57mm, stock LS is 60mm). You might also want to look into a larger injector. I *think* stock ones are good to 240cc's. Get something just a tad bigger to help with the higher compression you plan on running.
After that, I would go get that beast tuned. Alot more whp could be hiding from you.. easily revealed by a good tuning session.
PNP you should definitely do. Get a Fuel pressure regulator and think about a bigger TB. Possibly an Integra OEM one (stock on civics is 57mm, stock LS is 60mm). You might also want to look into a larger injector. I *think* stock ones are good to 240cc's. Get something just a tad bigger to help with the higher compression you plan on running.
After that, I would go get that beast tuned. Alot more whp could be hiding from you.. easily revealed by a good tuning session.
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somebody told me about him, forgot who it is b/c I never contacted him, but somebody told me about a guy on this site that runs 12's on a D16Z6 N/A (All Motor) -- Whether this is true or not I"m not sure, but I never got in contact (or tried to find this guy) so I could ask him what he did..I'm sure he has a laundry list of parts though including bored block....might wanna look for 'em
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I'd start with boring and high comp pistons
EDIT:
But w/ the ammount of money ur dumping into it to make it a high N/A D16Z6, ur better off with a swap...cheaper and faster...
EDIT:
But w/ the ammount of money ur dumping into it to make it a high N/A D16Z6, ur better off with a swap...cheaper and faster...
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I was thinking it looks like he's going to spend at least 1k, which would easily turbo him especially since he's already running crome which saves some money.
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Re: (SVOboy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SVOboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking it looks like he's going to spend at least 1k, which would easily turbo him especially since he's already running crome which saves some money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
true dat, not to mention he's already got aftermarket internals, so he could run more than 10lbs or so, y'kno?
true dat, not to mention he's already got aftermarket internals, so he could run more than 10lbs or so, y'kno?
#11
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>> milled head and thinner headgaskets
you gotta think before you do something with the future in mind because if you decide to build turbo in the future you will want the lower compression out of your motor.... if you are planning on throwing a different motor on there with the turbo build then you can keep doing little things to this one to gain power...
you have to realize though that after a while those little things you've done, you could have saved up for a turbo build.... i understand instant gratification is what we need sometimes and if that was the case i would save a little at a time and instead of buying an OBX 4-2-1 header i would spend it on say a used good condition 14b turbo or some other turbo part..
N/A on the d-series is not worth the money and time involved.. unless you have an interest in that which many people do but due to life constrains they can't allow themselves to do it
the only way to be faster on that car is to make the car as a whole lighter and raise the compression of the cylinders
there's gonna be a boom but not enough bam...
so the good choices here are turbo your d16 motor or get a bigger one for the n/a route..i wouldn't bother with d15 or d16 n/a
you gotta think before you do something with the future in mind because if you decide to build turbo in the future you will want the lower compression out of your motor.... if you are planning on throwing a different motor on there with the turbo build then you can keep doing little things to this one to gain power...
you have to realize though that after a while those little things you've done, you could have saved up for a turbo build.... i understand instant gratification is what we need sometimes and if that was the case i would save a little at a time and instead of buying an OBX 4-2-1 header i would spend it on say a used good condition 14b turbo or some other turbo part..
N/A on the d-series is not worth the money and time involved.. unless you have an interest in that which many people do but due to life constrains they can't allow themselves to do it
the only way to be faster on that car is to make the car as a whole lighter and raise the compression of the cylinders
there's gonna be a boom but not enough bam...
so the good choices here are turbo your d16 motor or get a bigger one for the n/a route..i wouldn't bother with d15 or d16 n/a
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If people would start being helpful and stop saying B series maybe you could get some good info. I have a port and polished head I'm building up, it's going to have a total of about .045 milled and I'll be looking at 10.8:1 compression with a normal headgasket, I think 10.3:1 with a 2 layer y8. JG cam, web valve springs, skunk2 intake manifold. You can get a good bit of compression bump from milling the head, but the right way to do it is taking some from the block and some from the head. I'm only taking it off the head because I don't want to pull my motor to do this, just want to do a head swap. If its an option for you I'd go for it, if not then you can mill the head and use a thinner headgasket. Better intake manifold, better header(DC, or if money is no object SMSP), and some head work, you should see a good bit of power.
#13
hey all thought i might throw in my two cents. im running a y8 block with pm3 pistons, a full port and polish job, crower stage 3 cam, ferrea(sp) stainless 1/2 mm oversized intake and standard exhaust, edlebrock intake mani, fully coated pistons and bearings, arp everywhere and im tossing between a bisi header and a few others i have laying around. which brings me to my point. everyone knows a good and complete b 16 swap will set you back around 2500. that being said everyone go out and buy this months honda tuning where the show you how to build a d series with factory honda parts that outdoes the b16 for less money. also look at the torque numbers, the b series only pulls a meisely 101 ftlbs where the d series shines with 111 ftlbs. i dont remember the horse power but i do remember that the d outdid the b by like 6 or 8 i cant remember which. taking all that plus the fact that the d series is lighter means when put into the same chassis with the same driver horsepower to weight ratio combined with more torque= d-series wins! build your d series, if you need any help pm me ill be glad to give any advise i can.
#17
Re: (FMIDRC Racer)
Yeah i have d 15 flat top pistons in a y8. They are both the same bore. With my head mill the pistons and a 2 layer metal gasket I end up with 11.5:1. It works very well, and yes they are coated.
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (EJ8-y8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">>> milled head and thinner headgaskets
you gotta think before you do something with the future in mind because if you decide to build turbo in the future you will want the lower compression out of your motor.... if you are planning on throwing a different motor on there with the turbo build then you can keep doing little things to this one to gain power...
you have to realize though that after a while those little things you've done, you could have saved up for a turbo build.... i understand instant gratification is what we need sometimes and if that was the case i would save a little at a time and instead of buying an OBX 4-2-1 header i would spend it on say a used good condition 14b turbo or some other turbo part..
N/A on the d-series is not worth the money and time involved.. unless you have an interest in that which many people do but due to life constrains they can't allow themselves to do it
the only way to be faster on that car is to make the car as a whole lighter and raise the compression of the cylinders
there's gonna be a boom but not enough bam...
so the good choices here are turbo your d16 motor or get a bigger one for the n/a route..i wouldn't bother with d15 or d16 n/a</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
you gotta think before you do something with the future in mind because if you decide to build turbo in the future you will want the lower compression out of your motor.... if you are planning on throwing a different motor on there with the turbo build then you can keep doing little things to this one to gain power...
you have to realize though that after a while those little things you've done, you could have saved up for a turbo build.... i understand instant gratification is what we need sometimes and if that was the case i would save a little at a time and instead of buying an OBX 4-2-1 header i would spend it on say a used good condition 14b turbo or some other turbo part..
N/A on the d-series is not worth the money and time involved.. unless you have an interest in that which many people do but due to life constrains they can't allow themselves to do it
the only way to be faster on that car is to make the car as a whole lighter and raise the compression of the cylinders
there's gonna be a boom but not enough bam...
so the good choices here are turbo your d16 motor or get a bigger one for the n/a route..i wouldn't bother with d15 or d16 n/a</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
#19
Go Tigers!
Re: What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods => (john666)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by john666 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kinda a waste of time imo if your not going to turbo it or something... should invest or save the money and invest in a b series.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why don't you go listen to the misfits or something, cause your posts sure aren't helping here.
And I am going to give my default answer of, "get a final drive" If you don't have a ex/si transmission, get one. And get a 4.7 or 4.9 final drive.
why don't you go listen to the misfits or something, cause your posts sure aren't helping here.
And I am going to give my default answer of, "get a final drive" If you don't have a ex/si transmission, get one. And get a 4.7 or 4.9 final drive.
#20
Re: What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods => (roberts)
what are your intentions with this car? are you actually going to take it to the drag strip or is it just going to be a realiable dd?
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: What's next to be done? D16Z6 engine and current mods => (Sleepy_Red_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepy_Red_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how inspiring for me and my soon-to-be all motor Z1 build</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL, dont waste your time. its been covered.
LOL, dont waste your time. its been covered.
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