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time for a rebuild for turbo..

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Old 04-10-2007, 12:01 PM
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Default time for a rebuild for turbo..

Ok guys i need some advice. Please im new at this so take it easy on me. I want some serious answers, please. I have a b18c5 want to rebuild it and boost up to about 10lbs. right as of now im just trying to work on the rebuild then worry about turbo. I want to boost as a daily driver what internals should i upgrade to? Thanks for all input, and again ima noob...
Old 04-10-2007, 12:04 PM
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no upgrade needed for 10psi. if you want to be on the really safe side, pistons and rods. just do the rebuild, get a machine shop to hone your cylinder walls, hot tank the block and everything and you should be fine to make 300 whp at about 10psi give or take.
Old 04-10-2007, 12:10 PM
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Also consider Cam's geared towards boost to help maximize the potential, and look into bigger head gaskets that widen the gap, lowering the natural compression of the engine, allowing you to run higher boost
Old 04-10-2007, 12:32 PM
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Default Re: time for a rebuild for turbo.. (ek9tl)

what brand internals should i upgrad to tho?
Old 04-10-2007, 12:33 PM
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Id recomend Eagle, Crower, ARP, or Spoon ( if you can afford it, lol)

Eagle and Crower are the two most common brand parts i see in engine buildups. they're very reliable. As for spoon, they make hardcore JDM parts, but cost insane amounts of money.

Also, it would be wise to invest in a new valve train in the engine head. Id recomend a full Skunk2 valve train, they make complete kits, but that sort of work requires special tools, such as valve srping compressors.

If your lookin to go real hardcore and have the time, look into sending your engine head out to be ported and polished. Suja1 motoring ( in illinois i think) offers those services. Somewhat costly.

Old 04-10-2007, 12:57 PM
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Default Re: (97Ej6mike)

thanks alot for ur help man..no turbo what kit should i get? What am i lookin to spend u think?
Old 04-10-2007, 01:20 PM
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Default Re: (97Ej6mike)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also consider Cam's geared towards boost to help maximize the potential, and look into bigger head gaskets that widen the gap, lowering the natural compression of the engine, allowing you to run higher boost</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> As for spoon, they make hardcore JDM parts, but cost insane amounts of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf? just stop.


to the OP; dont get confused with a psi number. psi means jack **** when you dont know the size of turbo being used. 10psi on a t25 is different than 10psi from a gt35. set a hp goal instead. a stock b18c5 can handle ~300whp with a very good tune. if you want to make more reliably all you need are rods and pistons. pistons are a personal preference, so just get them in the cr you want. 9:1 would be ideal. unless you want to make insane power eagle rods with the bigger bolts are perfectly fine and cheap. also look into headstuds for extra insurance. other than that, make sure your fuel system is up to par and you have a good tune.
Old 04-10-2007, 03:36 PM
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Default Re: (doood)

hey thanx dude..
Old 04-10-2007, 04:34 PM
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Default Re: (doood)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to the OP; dont get confused with a psi number. psi means jack **** when you dont know the size of turbo being used. 10psi on a t25 is different than 10psi from a gt35. set a hp goal instead. a stock b18c5 can handle ~300whp with a very good tune. if you want to make more reliably all you need are rods and pistons. pistons are a personal preference, so just get them in the cr you want. 9:1 would be ideal. unless you want to make insane power eagle rods with the bigger bolts are perfectly fine and cheap. also look into headstuds for extra insurance. other than that, make sure your fuel system is up to par and you have a good tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Dead on the money. If nothing is currently wrong with the internals of the car and it's driving fine, I would just boost it stock and have a good tune in the car and roll with it.

If you MUST replace things, I would shoot for reliable and easy to get like Eagle rods and SRP 9:1 pistons. The silicon content of the SRP's make them expand little and if you still have a good bore on the stock bottom end, it will drop right in with good clearance and little to no piston slap when it's cold. Plus SRP's will hold 500whp with out a problem with a good tune.

As far as a turbo, if you just want a fairly quick spooling setup that will be fun on the street, look into an SC50 from Precision. Makes enough power to put a full weight SI into the low 11's at mid 120's but still spools fast enough to be a street car.


And as far as cams, ITR cams work GREAT with turbo setups, no need to change them out.
Old 04-10-2007, 04:58 PM
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Default Re: (97Ej6mike)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id recomend Eagle, Crower, ARP, or Spoon ( if you can afford it, lol)

Eagle and Crower are the two most common brand parts i see in engine buildups. they're very reliable. As for spoon, they make hardcore JDM parts, but cost insane amounts of money.

Also, it would be wise to invest in a new valve train in the engine head. Id recomend a full Skunk2 valve train, they make complete kits, but that sort of work requires special tools, such as valve srping compressors.

If your lookin to go real hardcore and have the time, look into sending your engine head out to be ported and polished. Suja1 motoring ( in illinois i think) offers those services. Somewhat costly.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you dont know what you are talking about please dont post.
Old 04-11-2007, 12:18 PM
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Default Re: (-JSpecEk*9-)

yea well,see the thing is thati have some probsright now. I kno i have to change the head gasket and the piston rings as far as people looked at it b\c im throwing out lots of smoke..Since im doing that i decided to just change some internals for boosting so i might just change the rods and pistons and then boost, i guess..thanks for adivice.
Old 04-14-2007, 08:22 PM
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Default Re: (97Ej6mike)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also consider Cam's geared towards boost to help maximize the potential, and look into bigger head gaskets that widen the gap, lowering the natural compression of the engine, allowing you to run higher boost</TD></TR></TABLE>hha yea cause all the people making huge power on itr cams are just lucky

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id recomend Eagle, Crower, ARP, or Spoon ( if you can afford it, lol)

Eagle and Crower are the two most common brand parts i see in engine buildups. they're very reliable. As for spoon, they make hardcore JDM parts, but cost insane amounts of money.

Also, it would be wise to invest in a new valve train in the engine head. Id recomend a full Skunk2 valve train, they make complete kits, but that sort of work requires special tools, such as valve srping compressors.

If your lookin to go real hardcore and have the time, look into sending your engine head out to be ported and polished. Suja1 motoring ( in illinois i think) offers those services. Somewhat costly.

</TD></TR></TABLE>lmfao cause spoon make awesome turbo internals hahahahahaha....now please dont give any more bad info till you know wtf you are talking about
Old 04-14-2007, 09:49 PM
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Default Re: (97Ej6mike)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also consider Cam's geared towards boost to help maximize the potential, and look into bigger head gaskets that widen the gap, lowering the natural compression of the engine, allowing you to run higher boost</TD></TR></TABLE>

nothing but OEM
Old 04-14-2007, 09:49 PM
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Default Re: (slodel)

keep that ****** stock and turbo it
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