mrchouayang

well first off, i have a 92 si hatch.. w/ a gsr built w/ pistons i believe.. turbo'd with a t3/t4..

1.) first problem, i'm pretty sure it's my clutch.. cause i can't get it in gear.. similar to this story.. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/wont-go-gear-while-car-running-2927722/.. but that only happens when i take it past about 8000 rpm.. then it seems like the tranny locks up and i can't get it in gear anymore.. but then after a while, i can start getting it in gear, but really hard still.. and when i turn off the car, and throw it in first gear, and then start the car and step on the clutch ALL the way, it starts to roll as if i was releasing the clutch.. and then i could only put it in gear if i release the clutch midway between.. i've bought a new slave cylinder and bled it but i still does the same thing.. and my master is still in good shape as well.. ... i'm pretty sure it's the clutch, but not 100% sure either.. cause i don't wanna just buy the clutch and then ends up not being the clutch.. or don't wanna buy the tranny and it ends up not being the tranny..

2.) i believe the car is chipped to boost 10psi, and that is what i am boosting.. and my buddies tell me that the motor has to be built w/ pistons at least for me to be boosting 10 psi.. just wanna know if that is true.. cause i don't have the TIME to open up the motor and see for myself... one day i will, but just not right now..

3.) another question.. i got a carbon fiber hood and i wanna know the chances of it flying up and breaking the windshield.. at first i was scared of taking my car on the highway, but i had to drive to work which was just a 5 minute drive, so i started getting used to it.. but then the other day i had to travel to madison which is about 2 hours from here.. the ride there i was really paranoid and only drove 65mph on the highway.. but on the way back, i started driving 75-80 cause i started trusting it more and wanted to get home so i didn't care anymore.. so i wanna know how important it is to have hood pins on and what are the chances of it flying off..

4.) i ordered the hood pins for my cf hood but i heard that it takes about 45 minutes to drill 1 hole and i don't really wanna drill it either or it might crack..

5.) my car is chipped so i don't know when i redlines.. i've taken it to 9,000 - 9,500 around there.. and i wanna know if it's safe and when i should shift..

6.) last thing, since everything is controlled by the ecu and tuned.. i'm wondering if i could still install a boost controller.. if it would mess up the tuning or not..

just a couple things on my mind so i wanted to see what others opinions are, other than the ones i get from my buddies.. THANKS for reading and Please leave a comment!!

boostedef123

2: Did the guy show you proof it was built internaly? Otherwise I wouldnt trust it.
3:Is it just sitting on the car not latched to anything? If it is of course it has the potential to do that.
4: Get a high speed drill. Its carbon fiber its gotta be high speed it wont crack but will splinter.
5: Do you not know if the head is built? I would never take a B series past 8 if I didnt know if the head was worked. Find out about stuff before you push like 10k thats how you ruin motors.
6: You increase the boost with a controler yes. The ECU does not control the boost. Your waste gauge does unless there is a electronic boost controller arlready set up. But more boost could ruin that motor if its not built. Like you think it is. Find out for sure!

As for your first question I would pull the tranny and check the condition of your clutch. If its the tranny you have it pulled out already to be replaced. If its the clutch you gotta pull it anyways.

mrchouayang

first of all, thanks for the input..

2. no there's no proof of anything.. people just think it's built that's why it is able to handle 10psi
3. the hood is latched to the latch of course, but i don't think i would trust just the latch.. seen videos of people's hoods flying off
4. i don't want to drill it if it's safe the way it is.. but better safe then sorry, i know..
5. i don't know if the head is built or not.. haven't opened the motor at all yet
6. if the ecu doesn't control the boost, then idk what does, cause there's no boost controller anywhere to be found

and 1. yes, you're right about that.. either way, i would have to pull the tranny apart.. cause i thought it was the slave cylinder but it wasn't..

again, thanks for the input.. appreciate it

boostedef123

I doubt your hood will fly open from the latch. There is a safety mech that prevents that. You know when you pull the cable to open the hood part ways. then you have to open it. Thats the safety If it does open it wont but a few inches no need to rice it out unless you want to.

10 psi is a safe stock setting if its tuned. You could probably run 8-10 psi for along time with no issues if you dont floor it everywhere you go.

And its like I said. You waste gauge controls the amount of boost you have. Dont need a controller. Its a spring inside of it.

Former User

Replace the clutch master cylinder and thoroughly bleed the hydraulic system again. Also adjust the clutch pedal to spec as described in the service manual.

mrchouayang

thanks RON.. but i don't really think it's the master cylinder because it doesn't leak anywhere.. but i will definitely look into that before pull the tranny apart.. and as of right now, the clutch is really low.. i adjusted it to normal but it still didn't help..

mrchouayang

i think it's pretty safe for the hood to not fly open, but i've heard of them flying open before and cracking the windshield cause of it being light..

and someone told me that the motor has to be built to be running on 10psi.. otherwise it wouldn't be able to handle it just stock internals.. so idk

Former User

Master cylinders can fail without leaking. And your bleed may not have completely eliminated air from the system.

mrchouayang

all right will check that out when i have the chance ron..

hafast

1. Sounds like the pressure plate fingers are bent, may consider getting a new clutch/pressure plate.

2. boosting untuned is deadly with propper tuning and supporting modifications 10+ is attainable.

3. driven a car with the cheapest CF hood ever and it wobbled but it never delatched, hoodpins would help.

4. Need a Titanium drill bit and 3500 to 4000 rpm drill at least air drill is the easiest.

5. turbo's dont make alot of power up top reving to 9 grand sounds good but i bet your floating valves unless the head is built, the cfm of the turbo is more than likely dropping off by 8-8500 so shift earlier, Dyno Running the car would help you.

6. boost controlers could be manual or electronic, it will not effect the ecu but could change the parameters required for fuel enrichment on the ecu, if you have the ability get 2 chips burned for different boost levels.

mrchouayang

thanks for the input.. i'm pretty sure it's the clutch also.. will open it up and take a look at it..

2. it's tuned pretty nicely.. the motor is a major gas saver also so i'm guessing it was tuned pretty well..

3. my hood don't wobble at all, it's actually nice and tight w/ no gaps either.. so i think i might just leave it w/o drilling into the hood if you say it won't unlatch.. gives me more confidence when driving on the highway then.. haha

5... yes i agree with what you said.. it's just i need a little shift light or something to tell me when to shift.. haha.. but i don't want a big one either.. i'll look more into a shift light.. set it around 8100 or so.. another thing that sucks is that the turbo is fully spooled at around 5500-6000rpm and reaches 8000 so quick that i feel like i don't want to shift yet, haha..

6. i probably won't get a boost controller, i was just wondering where it was being controlled from.. cause it stops at 10-11psi..

but thanks again for giving input!

hafast

the wastegate currently controls your boost pressure by a spring when the spring is overwhelmed it opens letting boost pressure out most wastegates are adjustable by changing the spring ive seen people adjust the wastegate spring by manualy stretching it or compressing it in a vise overnight just on certain models of external wastegates though

sorry this was done on my iphone

mrchouayang

oh okay i get it now.. thanks for the thorough explaination..

i also see that on the wastegate vacuum lines, there's a 3-way adapter and 1 of the plugs is left open.. i'm guess that it is letting more air in/out so it won't boost so high.. i think i'm starting to get how they set up this setup.. thanks!