d16rice

Hey guys.
I have a 1995 Civic EX and my voltage regulator recently went out, started putting out up to 25V, frying my battery.

I had an alternator and a complete wire harness from a 1997 Civic LX that got totaled five years ago, so I changed the four wire plugs, and swapped in the 97 alternator into the 95 civic.

Both alternators are the same exact shape, there’s only two differences, the plugs, and the EG puts out 70amps, where as EK puts out 75amps.

Does anyone foresee any problems?

JimDCXC

You shouldn't have any problem with that

d16rice

That's what I thought, but the car ran for a combined 2 or 2.5 hours and batterie died. The battery light would stay on for about 30seconds after starting the engine, and then go off.

I have a feeling the alternator I put in was on its last leg too. It had about 112K miles on it, and came out of my dads car that gotaled in a crash... and then sat in a box in a garage for some five years.

I'll check the wiring again, just in case, too.

sde780

I thought there was a difference in the belt ribs/alternator pullies between OBD 1 and OBD 2

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Check your ELD fuse. Not sure if the 95 has an ELD, but it might have blown due to your old alternator being over volatage. Check the alternator fuse in the dash also. Especially if the speedo is not working.

Also check the voltage reading at the alternator. Compare it with the voltage reading at the battery. Make sure everything is tight and right.

With the car on, the voltage should be right around 14.xx volts.

raidacaipo

If all else fails just take the alternator to autozone to get it checked for free..
If your speedo works, chances are fuse #15 isn't blown.

I would most likely check for a ground wire instead. Check all connections
1. Head to chasis
2. Tranny to chasis
3. Thermostat ground
4. Alternator ground

d16rice

I'll go through it all the first chance I get.
I don't think it's the fuse, because the battery only has some 60 minutes reserve power, and I drove it for over 2 hours with lights on before it gave out. The speedo and tachometer started going out minutes before the car shot off, and when I recharged the battery at work, everything worked again.

I tested the alternator before I put it in, and it tested good, it was just making some noise when spinning, which stoped after a little WD-40. Then again, I had a similar problem with my 97 hatch, the alternator tested good too, but the battery would die every few weeks, so I put a new one, and all the problems went away.

I'll check the fuses and all the grounds anyway, it never hurts to be sure.

thecruzs2007@yahoo.com

d16rice

No, same thing, I even have a picture of them side by side... just have to finde the cable to my camera to upload it.

raidacaipo

Why would that matter? I put a 97 civic single cam alternator in my h22 for christ sake and I never had a problem with it

5OHinaEK

must be the only one who caught this ...... Dude. Where did you spray the wd? Was the car running? Have you had the battery tested yet? Did you know your local parts house will test both. in car .for free.......?

d16rice

I sprayed the WD40 on the shaft by the pulley. By the way, WD40 is a Water Displacing formula that is non-conductive, and therefore, safe on electronics. Anyway, I had it tested off the vehicle, after spraying it.

I work at a parts store, and yes, I know we do test them for free

5OHinaEK

worried you sprayed it on the belt to stop a squeel...... Its funny but i have seen ppl do it more than once.....

d16rice

Seems like I have to talk people out of that every day, lol. A lot of them are too lazy to adjust the tensioner, or too cheap to replace a worn out belt.

Anyway, some further testing revealed a constantly open diode.
I’m pretty sure I wired i right, but not 100%.

Anyone know the wire color correlation between OBD1 and OBD2?

It's a PITA to remove the alternator, so I'd rather address any possible small mishaps before tearing it apart again.