Cranks but NO spark, tdc question too!
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Cranks but NO spark, tdc question too!
Hello all! i have been having some PROBLEMS. i recently bought a cheap y8 for my 1997 hatch, and when i bought it the timing belt was loose and off, so i haven been f'ing with this swap for a bit because originally i had forgotten to put on a ground (DUHHHH) then i completely butched the firing order (DUHHH) and i TRIED to time it out of the car and i originally kept re-timing to set the TDC mark to each four of the timming lines prior to thinking to re check my grounds, eventually i smarted up and realized that i wasnt getting fuel or spark and that that had nothing to do with timing ahah. well...little anyways, BUT now, its all set and the timing i am un-sure about, could anyone tell me where to line up the TDC mark on the CRANK? there are 3 lines next to each other and then about an inch of a space then another line, now, i am not very techical, if anyone could please just tell me what line to set it on if the cam pulley is set to TOP, i would be ECSTATIC. if this doesnt work i am going to check the ECU (not very likely) just bought which is a p2p and then the main relay, but for right now, i just really wanna know where to line up the TDC mark, As i am sure as most of you know, it looks like this.... ||| | WTF ahhaha. Please help me out if you can, thank you all for your time!!!
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Re: Cranks but NO spark, tdc question too! (y888hatchback)
top dead for a y8 block is the woodruff key at the 12 oclock position.. and on the cam gear itll say up no spark could be a bad dizzy coil, but no spark and fuel could be ecu or main relay..
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Re: Cranks but NO spark, tdc question too! (chingpo05)
hrmm...i see...i see...so your suggesting taking off the crank pulley and looking at the woodruff key, i really wanted to save that as a "worse case" thing because i heard about how much of a bitch they are to take off. i dont have a air gun nore no anyone who does, but i could take the engine back out of the car and have a shoppe do it, i wanna call that plan B if there is no other way, oh and the spark and fuel, i didnt mean to confuse anybody but i did figure that out, it was a ground, so its cranking over, Sounds kind of grindy and loud and its getting fuel and spark its just not firing, it also was kind of making a "wooobb" bubblely sound like it kind of want to start, but ia m pretty sure its out of time. thanks for the tip, ill call it plan B
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Re: Cranks but NO spark, tdc question too! (cruzn29)
You might want to recheck your timing. It happened to me once...and in ended being the timing that was wrong. I had spark, fuel, and it also had that "sound" that it wanted to turn on. So just letting you know to recheck your timing.
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Re: Cranks but NO spark, tdc question too! (cruzn29)
Distributor was a no go. adjusting the distributors timing didn't help either.
"Oh, by the way" if worst comes to worst and I have to take off the pulley to I loosen it towards the car or away from the car? ...i'm still wondering about that TDC mark if anyone can help. Thanks.
"Oh, by the way" if worst comes to worst and I have to take off the pulley to I loosen it towards the car or away from the car? ...i'm still wondering about that TDC mark if anyone can help. Thanks.
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You remove the bolt like any other regular threaded bolt, right-tighty, lefty-loosey. When turning the crank, you want to ALWAYS turn it counter-clockwise, since that's the normal rotation of the engine. If you have to remove the crank bolt, if you plan on working with civics later on down the road, you might as well invest in the 50mm crank pulley hex tool. It is indeed a bitch to remove.
Recommeded: I jacked the car up about 2ft in the air, attached 2 1' extensions with a 17mm socket, placed the pulley tool on 1st, then 17mm socket, then find some short pipe that will reach to the ground and hold the pulley tool to the ground while u try to remove. Using is jack stand while turning is the best way. Here are pics from when I did mine a couple days ago. I used a big **** 5ft pipe to turn that bolt and I put ALL of my strength to it. I'm 6ft @ 260lbs. I was scared I was gonna snap the bolt head off!!
Recommeded: I jacked the car up about 2ft in the air, attached 2 1' extensions with a 17mm socket, placed the pulley tool on 1st, then 17mm socket, then find some short pipe that will reach to the ground and hold the pulley tool to the ground while u try to remove. Using is jack stand while turning is the best way. Here are pics from when I did mine a couple days ago. I used a big **** 5ft pipe to turn that bolt and I put ALL of my strength to it. I'm 6ft @ 260lbs. I was scared I was gonna snap the bolt head off!!
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Wow, thanks everyone! jdmphile that is exactly what i was looking for, it appears that the actual tdc mark is farest over, and xsort, i will 100% do that (and good tips btw) if i cant get that guy times without taking off the pulley. i dont have that hex guy but i read i could you a rachet tie down thing, i could wrap it around SOMETHING?? and racket it around the pulley to keep it stable. i am loving the jack stand on the ext idea, SMART!!! i great way not to strip the bolt, Thanks everyone, and as jdm said, its probably the timing, originally when i timed it i was hoping it would be as easy as ext in 1# spark plug hole and wait for it to go down, but all four of the lines seem to be within that vicinity, so i am going to try to work with it more today, anyone with anymore input, please lemme know, thanks!
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Re: (y888hatchback)
well i figured out the problem, its IN time, :D but its got the WRONG distributor in it!!! lamee!!!!, anyone know where theres a cheaper y8 distributor around? ahaha and check this out everyone, i checked out the CEL codes and it said VTEC malfution because i never ran the wires for the solenoids so i did and it says that there are no CEL codes (even though it doesnt start/idle) and my car can pass emissions. :D hurray for me and the beloved obd2 code readers :D
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