Right on. Did you replace all of your bushings? I see new blue stuff in there.

 

yah, hard race sphericals

 

Just in case any of you guys are interested:
My interior seats are for sale
LiveSport Wing
and J's Racing 88-89 front lip
along with my smoked clear tail lights
and JDM tail

 

Anything else? I ask because your car will settle after that initial alignment possibly requiring you to get it checked again. If all you did was replace the RTA's then I wouldn't worry.

 

shericals wont settle. the springs shouldnt but they will. my dads omni powers sunk a half inch in a yeah. chinese crap

 

Sphericals are a given. I'm just asking about any other bushings he may have replaced. i.e. did you freshen up all the suspension bushings or just add a few new items? If it's the latter, or they are all spherical, I wouldn't worry. If it's the former, I'd put a few miles on the car before aligning it.

 

Sphericals for the win. Has anyone ever used a DIY alignment kit.. kinda like these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...P6BWG4M3FMJM3G

and this to set toe.

http://www.amazon.com/Fastrax-Adapte...=pd_sbs_auto_3

I just hate to take my car to a shop, I dont have alignment machine access anymore. not sure how reliable something like this is though.

 

everything is spherical except for front and rear shock mounts on the lca's

 

I think i may be answering my own question but i just want to make sure;

After the brake upgrade, and bleeding the brakes twice, the pedal is still on the soft side and the brakes dont feel as strong as i was expecting. Is this normal until everything is bedded properly and everything is worked in?

 

Did you swap your master cylinder also?

 

Can everyone just keep an eye out for a good used set of Koni Yellow and Ground Controls (89-91) Please!!! If I have to I will buy them new but Im trying to save some coin, so I can buy a few other things I need before IA! Thank you guys!!

 

yes i did 15/16

 

I don't know then...what was your bleeding order? Supposed to go furthest from mc and end at closest. So: RR RL FR FL

 

I did this for years, but my OEM service manual says otherwise. It starts with LF, RR, LR, RF.

Let me double check that later though so I'm 100%. BUT, the whole furthest from the MC is actually incorrect.

 

I just saw this as well, so sorry for double posting. I've had times when I replaced the rear lines that I had to bleed the damn brakes 3 times before everything was solid again! But, make sure you're following the correct bleeding sequence. Like I said above, I'll double check when I get home.

 

Really?! WTF...

 

Dude...I said the same thing. I stared at my oem service manual for about 5 minutes before saying "f*ck it" and changed how I bled the brakes from there forward.

 

from the oem service manual

 

hes right, furthest is incorrect, and i had to bleed mine 4 times like stated above to get a pedal.



funny alot of people think the pass rear is furthest from the MC on the ef chassis. its actually the driver rear cause the lines run down the passenger side and back across the rear floor. and the driver front is actually farther away from the MC than the pass side front cause the line comes back across the firewall from the prop.

 

Ok, so did you bench bleed your m/c?

I use a vacuum bleeder at each corner and to be honest, for example, after a m/c swap, I've never really followed any particular order when bleeding and I've never run into any issues. Granted, I usually pull a lot of fluid thru each corner because most of the time the car has never had a brake fluid change in its life so I try and get all the old stuff out.

 

I bench bled the MC.I bled it in this order; RR,RL,FR,FL. So it was wrong then? Bleeding in a certain oder will affect the feel of the pedal?

 

prolly just needs bled more.....

 

Can i reuse the fluid that im bleeding since all the old stuff is flushed out, or do i HAVE to use new fluid everytime i bleed?

 

Make sure it was bench bled properly and completely. I use an old set of brake hard lines that I re-route into the reservoir and I pump slowly while clamped in a vice. For me, Hondas are the easiest to bleed. I never have good luck with domestics.. It always takes me a little while.

I dont see a problem with reusing new fluid, just as long as the container its going in is nice and clean.

 

use a paint cup filter, when you pour it back in the resivoir