The Official EF Discussion Thread
a good portion of the strength /mounting of the roof sheetmetal is sealer... i'd imagine you wouldnt notice a huge difference, if any , with a lexan roof.
the roof doesnt really do all that much, IMO, especially a tiny crx roof
the roof doesnt really do all that much, IMO, especially a tiny crx roof
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the roof doesnt really do all that much, IMO, especially a tiny crx roof</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it does, especially on the crx, because of the large opening for the rear hatch. I guess I don't know for sure though.
What d16 does that jrsc you have for sale fit?
the roof doesnt really do all that much, IMO, especially a tiny crx roof</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it does, especially on the crx, because of the large opening for the rear hatch. I guess I don't know for sure though.
What d16 does that jrsc you have for sale fit?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 6,779
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stefndogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just curious why you are so serious about saving weight? what will the car be used for?
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It's kinda an addiction. It started by removing the bumper supports, heat, and wipers. Then I kinda went fully overboard. Now I am a bit of an anorexic car builder, or anything for that matter. I shaved 3lbs off of my road bike last year. LOL. I will not be going with anything that extreme as far as the seat goes either. I am thinking Mugen S1-Rs, or there a few Race Tech, and OMPs I am looking at as well.
As for all the roof discussion. All of the support in the roof in our cars is the side pillars, and the front and rear cross section. Mostly the rear. I purchased a glass roof, minus the glass. So now I just need to make a piece of lexan to fit, and fab a gasket for it. So it is as strong as a glass roof, maybe minutely less, since the glass adds some structure. I will say with the roof welded in, it is just as solid as it was with the stock Si roof. The lexan is going to be the last thing I finish. So no pics till the paint, and body work is done.
just curious why you are so serious about saving weight? what will the car be used for?
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It's kinda an addiction. It started by removing the bumper supports, heat, and wipers. Then I kinda went fully overboard. Now I am a bit of an anorexic car builder, or anything for that matter. I shaved 3lbs off of my road bike last year. LOL. I will not be going with anything that extreme as far as the seat goes either. I am thinking Mugen S1-Rs, or there a few Race Tech, and OMPs I am looking at as well.
As for all the roof discussion. All of the support in the roof in our cars is the side pillars, and the front and rear cross section. Mostly the rear. I purchased a glass roof, minus the glass. So now I just need to make a piece of lexan to fit, and fab a gasket for it. So it is as strong as a glass roof, maybe minutely less, since the glass adds some structure. I will say with the roof welded in, it is just as solid as it was with the stock Si roof. The lexan is going to be the last thing I finish. So no pics till the paint, and body work is done.
lexan tends to warp over time. that's why i got a carbon sunroof plug. a large piece of lexan that you would be using would definitely warp.
you arent a weight ****. ive seen 100 cars at the street races in the late 90s that had more weight removed. cutting up doors, adding lexan to all the windows, cutting out the floor and riveting in sheet metal, no dash, etc. etc.
you gotta draw a line somewhere. what do you want to use the car for? if you ever plan on racing it, you got to abide by the rulebook.
you arent a weight ****. ive seen 100 cars at the street races in the late 90s that had more weight removed. cutting up doors, adding lexan to all the windows, cutting out the floor and riveting in sheet metal, no dash, etc. etc.
you gotta draw a line somewhere. what do you want to use the car for? if you ever plan on racing it, you got to abide by the rulebook.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's kinda an addiction. It started by removing the bumper supports, heat, and wipers. Then I kinda went fully overboard. Now I am a bit of an anorexic car builder, or anything for that matter. I shaved 3lbs off of my road bike last year. LOL. I will not be going with anything that extreme as far as the seat goes either. I am thinking Mugen S1-Rs, or there a few Race Tech, and OMPs I am looking at as well.
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Just curious what you're doing for safety...any roll-bar plans? If it's a street car and you're going for super light weight then who cares, but I'm just curious if you plan to track it.
And if you really wanted to be lightweight...you'd go d-series
It's kinda an addiction. It started by removing the bumper supports, heat, and wipers. Then I kinda went fully overboard. Now I am a bit of an anorexic car builder, or anything for that matter. I shaved 3lbs off of my road bike last year. LOL. I will not be going with anything that extreme as far as the seat goes either. I am thinking Mugen S1-Rs, or there a few Race Tech, and OMPs I am looking at as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just curious what you're doing for safety...any roll-bar plans? If it's a street car and you're going for super light weight then who cares, but I'm just curious if you plan to track it.
And if you really wanted to be lightweight...you'd go d-series
I agree with Bart in the fact that his chassis will be just as strong... Think about it, he is using a glass roof skeleton then adding lexan. I say, try it, if you dont like it put the glass back in.... or, leave the glass, then put the lexan in if your weight is too high.
on another note, how the hell can the geo metro run a rbc IM and have it fit under the hood!? And the crx cant
Im sure his axle alignment is way off! It has to be...
-R
on another note, how the hell can the geo metro run a rbc IM and have it fit under the hood!? And the crx cant
Im sure his axle alignment is way off! It has to be...-R
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Im sure his axle alignment is way off! It has to be...
-R</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe that's why they're using those huge wheels?
-R</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe that's why they're using those huge wheels?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stefndogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so i should expect to see this seat in your car(since its function over form)?
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save more like this
so i should expect to see this seat in your car(since its function over form)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
save more like this
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with Bart in the fact that his chassis will be just as strong... Think about it, he is using a glass roof skeleton then adding lexan. I say, try it, if you dont like it put the glass back in.... or, leave the glass, then put the lexan in if your weight is too high.
on another note, how the hell can the geo metro run a rbc IM and have it fit under the hood!? And the crx cant
Im sure his axle alignment is way off! It has to be...
-R</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you do a glass top the frame of the roof stays on the car, the only thing that changes is the skin its self (larger hole) We pulled the si roof off of my friends car and installed a hf, no structural integrity was compromised. But Im with streetworks, when it comes time to delete mine roof, i think the carbon plug is the fastest easiest way to go.
on another note, how the hell can the geo metro run a rbc IM and have it fit under the hood!? And the crx cant
Im sure his axle alignment is way off! It has to be...-R</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you do a glass top the frame of the roof stays on the car, the only thing that changes is the skin its self (larger hole) We pulled the si roof off of my friends car and installed a hf, no structural integrity was compromised. But Im with streetworks, when it comes time to delete mine roof, i think the carbon plug is the fastest easiest way to go.
Yes, I understand... It seemed that someone posted and thought he was just cutting a hole out, and gluing in lexan... Im sayin he is replacing the whole piece (not the whole roof, but the whole skin top piece) so ya, we are basically saying the same thing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, I understand... It seemed that someone posted and thought he was just cutting a hole out, and gluing in lexan... Im sayin he is replacing the whole piece (not the whole roof, but the whole skin top piece) so ya, we are basically saying the same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool, but im sure everyone has that picture in their mind of bart with a sawzall going to town.
Ill tell you what, its a pita getting all those spot welds out on both roofs... not fun at all
Cool, but im sure everyone has that picture in their mind of bart with a sawzall going to town.
Ill tell you what, its a pita getting all those spot welds out on both roofs... not fun at all
Chit.... I watched woody (408wdy) swap his firewall out... Man, there is like thousands of hidden spots
No fun.... But it always gets done if it has to!
No fun.... But it always gets done if it has to!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Chit.... I watched woody (408wdy) swap his firewall out... Man, there is like thousands of hidden spots
No fun.... But it always gets done if it has to!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Spot welds blow, we took both 1/4s rockers and roof off a crx, not fun at all. I cna only imagine how a firewall would be to do.
No fun.... But it always gets done if it has to!</TD></TR></TABLE>Spot welds blow, we took both 1/4s rockers and roof off a crx, not fun at all. I cna only imagine how a firewall would be to do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my brother-in-law has an 07 SI sedan. wanna line up?
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I DOUBT IT WILL MAKE A DIFFERANCE
SEDAN IS LIKE 300LBS HEAVIER RIGHT
my brother-in-law has an 07 SI sedan. wanna line up?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I DOUBT IT WILL MAKE A DIFFERANCE
SEDAN IS LIKE 300LBS HEAVIER RIGHT
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 6,779
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lexan tends to warp over time. that's why i got a carbon sunroof plug. a large piece of lexan that you would be using would definitely warp.
you arent a weight ****. ive seen 100 cars at the street races in the late 90s that had more weight removed. cutting up doors, adding lexan to all the windows, cutting out the floor and riveting in sheet metal, no dash, etc. etc.
you gotta draw a line somewhere. what do you want to use the car for? if you ever plan on racing it, you got to abide by the rulebook. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure there are lighter cars around. I saw one at the local races that was retarded light. All kinds of structure cut out and ****. It was bad, and not in a good way. I wouldn't drive in it. Full lexan everywhere. If the lexan starts t warp, I'll just cut a new piece, I'm doing 1/4, or 3/8" so it should be pretty strong, and prevent warping. Your right, I do have to draw the line somewhere. The dash will stay, and possibly the door panels, or at least a portion. Carpet see ya, rear interior, later. I do plan to do some HPDEs in it, and eventually time attacks. I'll drag it here and there. I am way too light for Nopi, I know that already. In Comp 4 I have to be like 2200lbs with a K. Gayer than aids. Oh yeah I want to keep the other windows as stock looking as possible so they will either be glass or I might be getting a FAL molded kit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just curious what you're doing for safety...any roll-bar plans? If it's a street car and you're going for super light weight then who cares, but I'm just curious if you plan to track it.
And if you really wanted to be lightweight...you'd go d-series </TD></TR></TABLE>
It is still a street car. I basically built it to be fun. I do have a pro-tools model 105 tube bender, and a big *** Snap On mig welder.. I also have a few hundred feet of 1.5" .120wall DOM. I will be building a complete cage in the future. Probably over the winter. I want to practice by caging up my Samurai. The door panels will be kinda an issue for I want my side tubes to protrude into the door to make more room for occupants. I've had the D series conversation with people many times too. So much that I talked myself into building my HF into an auto-x car with a d15. The class I want to run in, I can get down to 1650lbs if I stay 1500cc. Thats what I am talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, I understand... It seemed that someone posted and thought he was just cutting a hole out, and gluing in lexan... Im sayin he is replacing the whole piece (not the whole roof, but the whole skin top piece) so ya, we are basically saying the same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah thats what I thought he was thinking, too. It does have the glass roof structure. It's just as strong as it was.
you arent a weight ****. ive seen 100 cars at the street races in the late 90s that had more weight removed. cutting up doors, adding lexan to all the windows, cutting out the floor and riveting in sheet metal, no dash, etc. etc.
you gotta draw a line somewhere. what do you want to use the car for? if you ever plan on racing it, you got to abide by the rulebook. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure there are lighter cars around. I saw one at the local races that was retarded light. All kinds of structure cut out and ****. It was bad, and not in a good way. I wouldn't drive in it. Full lexan everywhere. If the lexan starts t warp, I'll just cut a new piece, I'm doing 1/4, or 3/8" so it should be pretty strong, and prevent warping. Your right, I do have to draw the line somewhere. The dash will stay, and possibly the door panels, or at least a portion. Carpet see ya, rear interior, later. I do plan to do some HPDEs in it, and eventually time attacks. I'll drag it here and there. I am way too light for Nopi, I know that already. In Comp 4 I have to be like 2200lbs with a K. Gayer than aids. Oh yeah I want to keep the other windows as stock looking as possible so they will either be glass or I might be getting a FAL molded kit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just curious what you're doing for safety...any roll-bar plans? If it's a street car and you're going for super light weight then who cares, but I'm just curious if you plan to track it.
And if you really wanted to be lightweight...you'd go d-series </TD></TR></TABLE>
It is still a street car. I basically built it to be fun. I do have a pro-tools model 105 tube bender, and a big *** Snap On mig welder.. I also have a few hundred feet of 1.5" .120wall DOM. I will be building a complete cage in the future. Probably over the winter. I want to practice by caging up my Samurai. The door panels will be kinda an issue for I want my side tubes to protrude into the door to make more room for occupants. I've had the D series conversation with people many times too. So much that I talked myself into building my HF into an auto-x car with a d15. The class I want to run in, I can get down to 1650lbs if I stay 1500cc. Thats what I am talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, I understand... It seemed that someone posted and thought he was just cutting a hole out, and gluing in lexan... Im sayin he is replacing the whole piece (not the whole roof, but the whole skin top piece) so ya, we are basically saying the same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah thats what I thought he was thinking, too. It does have the glass roof structure. It's just as strong as it was.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MOE@Hyper16Valve »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll race you in my left hand drive civic and I'll give you some SPACE...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I DON'T RACE FOR ***** POINT, SORRY
I DON'T RACE FOR ***** POINT, SORRY
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOLO1racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to know if 90-93 DA stock shocks will fit my 90-91 EF. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
OEM I DON'T KNOW
AFTERMARKET YES
I LOOKED UP A COUPLE OF PART NUMBERS FOR PERFORMANCE SHOCKS/STURTS AND THEY ARE THE SAME FOR BOTH 88-91 CIVIC AND 90-93 INTEGRA
I ACTUALLY MYSELF HAVE DA SHOCKS/STURTS ON MY CAR
OEM I DON'T KNOW
AFTERMARKET YES
I LOOKED UP A COUPLE OF PART NUMBERS FOR PERFORMANCE SHOCKS/STURTS AND THEY ARE THE SAME FOR BOTH 88-91 CIVIC AND 90-93 INTEGRA
I ACTUALLY MYSELF HAVE DA SHOCKS/STURTS ON MY CAR
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OEM I DON'T KNOW
AFTERMARKET YES
I LOOKED UP A COUPLE OF PART NUMBERS FOR PERFORMANCE SHOCKS/STURTS AND THEY ARE THE SAME FOR BOTH 88-91 CIVIC AND 90-93 INTEGRA
I ACTUALLY MYSELF HAVE DA SHOCKS/STURTS ON MY CAR
</TD></TR></TABLE>
THANKS
OEM I DON'T KNOW
AFTERMARKET YES
I LOOKED UP A COUPLE OF PART NUMBERS FOR PERFORMANCE SHOCKS/STURTS AND THEY ARE THE SAME FOR BOTH 88-91 CIVIC AND 90-93 INTEGRA
I ACTUALLY MYSELF HAVE DA SHOCKS/STURTS ON MY CAR
</TD></TR></TABLE>THANKS



