<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2_teg_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Any ideas now that i've posted pics of the wheels sticking out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

DA trailing arms are the culprit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just wanted to share that Bart, or user name: CRXBart is now officially my hero! I just had to share! </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is some funny ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DA trailing arms are the culprit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

anything i can do to fix that aside from replacing the trailing arms?

Anybody have the 7" wide wheels that don't rub with DA trailing arms??

 

I coulda swore mine were from a da... Idunno....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I coulda swore mine were from a da... Idunno....</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are dude...and mine are DC's...that's why I think the argument that they stick out is moot point.

There, I said it.

There are two CRX's in my garage right now; one with DA rear trailing arms (about -1.5 camber), and one with DC trailing arms (-2.8 camber). Both tuck the rear wheels nicely.

 

what offset?

https://honda-tech.com/zero...71389

this thread seems to have a few people with the same issue.

Trying to figure out what i need to do here. Roll the fenders? Bring the camber in? Or both?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2_teg_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

anything i can do to fix that aside from replacing the trailing arms?

Anybody have the 7" wide wheels that don't rub with DA trailing arms??</TD></TR></TABLE>

what upper control arms are you using on those DA trailing arms? That seems to be the issue with the sticking out, I think.

 

Worst case scenario just take the rims to a competent shop and have them shave a bit off the back to change up the offset. On top of that, you'll probably have to roll your fenders anyways to fit that rubber/tire combo without rubbing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what upper control arms are you using on those DA trailing arms? That seems to be the issue with the sticking out, I think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a 88-91 civic upper arm. its an ESR camber kit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Worst case scenario just take the rims to a competent shop and have them shave a bit off the back to change up the offset. On top of that, you'll probably have to roll your fenders anyways to fit that rubber/tire combo without rubbing </TD></TR></TABLE>
thought about that. didnt know if that was possible or not. any idea how much something like that costs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did we ever establish if DC knuckles would fit and work properly on the ef chasis?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i put some 96 hatch front knuckles in an EF this weekend. should be the same dimensions as a DC.

they fit fine, but not with the wheels i have (RWD offset=rub fenders).. you HAVE to have a slammed car, or you'll have positive camber. the top ball joints are about an inch further from the hub, which eliminates camber. OK if you've got tiny stock honda wheels...

the overall height is .25'' higher..nothing bad.

you'll need another alignment. i didnt keep them on... wouldnt work for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2_teg_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what offset?

https://honda-tech.com/zero...71389

this thread seems to have a few people with the same issue.

Trying to figure out what i need to do here. Roll the fenders? Bring the camber in? Or both?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I swear you have +camber from that last pic you posted. Haha. Please take your camber to ATLEAST -1.5 in the rear. -2 would probably be best.

I DON'T have my rear fenders rolled and my offset is +38. Absolutely NO rubbing issues with DC rta's here

Edit: all I see in the first few posts of that thred you linked (didn't read the whole thing) is a bunch of people saying "I believe they are wider." Perhaps Ryan and I are lucky...

Edit #2: Is it possible to install the wrong hubs??? Maybe that would push them out? I'm just throwing thoughts out there


Modified by nickrps at 6:58 PM 7/2/2008


Modified by nickrps at 6:59 PM 7/2/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I swear you have +camber from that last pic you posted. Please take your camber to ATLEAST -1.5 in the rear. -2 would probably be best.

I DON'T have my rear fenders rolled and my offset is +38. Absolutely NO rubbing issues with DC rta's here

Edit: all I see in the first few posts of that thred you linked (didn't read the whole thing) is a bunch of people saying "I believe they are wider." Perhaps Ryan and I are lucky...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was mainly talkin about this post from that thread:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichbsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

same issue here.. with 15x7 +42 offset.. i just took out the baseball bat and did a little fender rolling so it doesnt rub now. the extra offset does make the wheels sit nice and flush though</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks though. i'll try and get my car on the alignment rack when i get new shocks and recheck my settings. i just dont wanna get on the alignment rack, go to lower the car, and it still rubs. then i kinda have to pay for two alignments when i fix the issue and drop the car to desired ride height.

 

Dang, I'm really hurting for cash this month. Any EF heads want a JDM SiR rear bumper + support for $140 picked up? No rear lip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They are dude...and mine are DC's...that's why I think the argument that they stick out is moot point.

There, I said it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go ahead and disagree, i still stand by my first hand experience with a friends car when we did the DA brake swap. First thing we noticed was the rear wheels stuck out a lil bit further. He didnt like it but eventually got used to it.

My experience along with Wes V's measurements makes me believe the DA arms will do whats pictured.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Plus it was junk. The water pump impeller blades were plastic, as well as the thermostat housing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn honda k series thermostat housings.


BMW are only expensive if you dont know where to look. i got a hookup.

 

i love bmw's

but cant afford an e46 m3. the legacy gt is my back fall

 

Just got my brand new harness in today but since I have never seen an uncut EF harness, I have a couple questions. Can anybody tell me what the longer white plug is for? this is near the plugs for the reverse light sensor for a stock crx si.


And the small plug in the middle here that is near the oil pressure sensor. I'm assuming the large boot with two wires coming from it is for a knock sensor.


Thanks fellas!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Go ahead and disagree, i still stand by my first hand experience with a friends car when we did the DA brake swap. First thing we noticed was the rear wheels stuck out a lil bit further. He didnt like it but eventually got used to it.

My experience along with Wes V's measurements makes me believe the DA arms will do whats pictured. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't explicitly disagree in my post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I didn't explicitly disagree in my post </TD></TR></TABLE>

I could tell what u meant, LOL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just got my brand new harness in today but since I have never seen an uncut EF harness, I have a couple questions. Can anybody tell me what the longer white plug is for? this is near the plugs for the reverse light sensor for a stock crx si.


And the small plug in the middle here that is near the oil pressure sensor. I'm assuming the large boot with two wires coming from it is for a knock sensor.


Thanks fellas!</TD></TR></TABLE>

pic 1
thats the 02 sensor...

Pic2
the 2 pin plug with the blue and the blk/yel is fast idle, im sure you dont need it, it wont throw a code if not hooked up. They are not on 88 si's or any dx/hf's

The boot with the 2 wires are for the fan switch
-R

 

Thanks Homie! Wow, since I converted to obd1, I forgot about the old 1 wire o2. haha!

 

Anyone have advice on removing old undercoating tar? I need to fix up some rust on the unibody so I figure I may as well clean up and recoat the underside of the car. I'm thinking wire brush + electric drill + countless hours, but surely someone has some better advice? haha

Edit: Just found this, lol: http://youtube.com/watch?v=YIjKBBbl2po

 

drill and a wire wheel brush is the fastest way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone have advice on removing old undercoating tar? I need to fix up some rust on the unibody so I figure I may as well clean up and recoat the underside of the car. I'm thinking wire brush + electric drill + countless hours, but surely someone has some better advice? haha

Edit: Just found this, lol: http://youtube.com/watch?v=YIjKBBbl2po </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya, thats what I would do for spots... or you can put the car on a rotisserie and blast it!
-R

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drill and a wire wheel brush is the fastest way</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahahahaha.... it's the cheapest way.

ryan's idea is the fastest way.

and the only way i would do it if i had to do it again. it was a bitch getting everything stripped so i could paint the car top to bottom with just the drill and some wire brushes but it 's worth it now it look's a 1,000 times better and cleaner to work with too.