<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JinteDgraM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unkown Member - what is your suspension spring set up? I like the even ride height front to rear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Progress coilovers with eibach springs.

 

The full-race xmember keeps the front end soo stiff, I haven't had a lot of time to test it cause of like 2 weeks of straight rain but I know they help.

 

more pics please.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The full-race xmember keeps the front end soo stiff, I haven't had a lot of time to test it cause of like 2 weeks of straight rain but I know they help.</TD></TR></TABLE>cool well once its stops raining and drys up test it out and let me know how it feels turing and u-turns and all that ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM2ndGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool well once its stops raining and drys up test it out and let me know how it feels turing and u-turns and all that ..</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll answer your question right now. i can take 90 degree right turns at like 30-35 without any sound coming from my tires. and if there is any sound its just a quick chirp. and for the longer high speed turns... its more stable... you can notice the difference. i don't have an upgraded rear sway bar yet either.. just front upper strut bar which helps in those 90 degree right turns

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmkrazie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'll answer your question right now. i can take 90 degree right turns at like 30-35 without any sound coming from my tires. and if there is any sound its just a quick chirp. and for the longer high speed turns... its more stable... you can notice the difference. i don't have an upgraded rear sway bar yet either.. just front upper strut bar which helps in those 90 degree right turns </TD></TR></TABLE>so over all would you say it is fine to use on a daily driver ?

 

yup.. just make sure you get an alignment right after you put it on. reason for this is because your toe isn't gonna be in alignment and also you're gonna have to adjust your caster into specs.. if you have too much caster you might start binding.

 

Yeah I think it would be fine on a daily driver. I doubt you would really notice the difference in a daily driver depending on how you drive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrayT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I think it would be fine on a daily driver. I doubt you would really notice the difference in a daily driver depending on how you drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you'll notice the difference if you like the take corners a little faster than normal speeds. also whenever your wheel spins out you'll notice a different feel.. its a little more controlable. oh not to mention... braking improves a little too.

 

Here's a pic with the down grade everyday wheels:

 

That's ****** bad ***. I like what you've done to it!

 

the crossmember is definatly an improvement on any car. the factory one is a piece. Once those bushings go out like one of mine did, it's toast. This is by far one of the best investments i've put into the car. For the questio above, it's more than perfect for a daily driver. It improves on the chassis soo much and helps keep it all stiff and under control. And for any of you who like to auto-x or just like to turn fast, I would also recommend taking off your front sway bar. It seems like you would want to keep the front end stiff under turning, but it's the opposite. You want the front soft since front wheel drives understeer, and the back to be stiff to help it want to oversteer, thus balancing it out so you can turn REAL fast and be stable. Oh, and a rear sway bar is the key to this equation!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And for any of you who like to auto-x or just like to turn fast, I would also recommend taking off your front sway bar. It seems like you would want to keep the front end stiff under turning, but it's the opposite. You want the front soft since front wheel drives understeer, and the back to be stiff to help it want to oversteer, thus balancing it out so you can turn REAL fast and be stable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, that is the stupidest thing I've read all day. Do some research before you try and tell people how to harm the handling of their vehicle...

If you want battleship body roll, then go ahead an remove the bar. If you want a DA that handles like a slot car, keep the front bar, install some urethane endlinks and upgrade the rear (properly, of course) to a 22mm USDM ITR bar. I did and I love it. It's a sure fire way to lift an inside rear around a tight hairpin....

 

Um ok. I have gotten a lot of advice from some hardcore auto-x guy's I know and my car has handled a lot better with no front sway bar. I am not saying use blown shocks and stock springs on the front I just meant you don't need a sway bar in the front. I do autox my car also and i've tried different combo's and this works the best for me. I have a Sus Tech sway bar on the back and I have no problem kicking out the back end with my shocks not even turned up in the back. And if you know anything about this, you will know the stiffer the back end on a front-wheel drive car is the more likely it is to oversteer which you want to a certain extent so it doesn't understeer which front wheel drive car's always do. I wish you lived here so we could go find out who's car handles better. Hey do what you want but I know how my car handles and I can out run a lot of people in the turns no problem.

 

I'll buy that for a dollar...

 

Chase is correct on his theory. The bigger the front sway the more understeer... so if you have NO front sway obviously very minimal understeer.

I would only remove the front sway if you upgrade the rear to anything about 19mm though.

 

nice ...that was the final factor ...im going to look into getting them ...

 

some dope DA's in here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the crossmember is definatly an improvement on any car. the factory one is a piece. Once those bushings go out like one of mine did, it's toast. This is by far one of the best investments i've put into the car. For the questio above, it's more than perfect for a daily driver. It improves on the chassis soo much and helps keep it all stiff and under control. And for any of you who like to auto-x or just like to turn fast, I would also recommend taking off your front sway bar. It seems like you would want to keep the front end stiff under turning, but it's the opposite. You want the front soft since front wheel drives understeer, and the back to be stiff to help it want to oversteer, thus balancing it out so you can turn REAL fast and be stable. Oh, and a rear sway bar is the key to this equation!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup.....removing the front bar will help the car rotate more.

 

Damn....seeing all these DA's makes me want one again. I've gone through every single page and every one I see makes me jealous. I think after I finish my CRX my next project will be another TEG.

Nice pics veryone!!

 

Sorry VTECDA9, looks like you are the one who doesn't know what your talking about. I don't want this thread to turn into an argument like the rest of em but you tried to make an *** of me and I proved you wrong. I also saw you posted in my thread in auto-x forum so you know now what I was talking about. I just know what works well for me and was just tryin to share the knowledge, that's all!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaKine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a pic with the down grade everyday wheels:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

maan.. that car is clean I was the one who sold you that Neuspeed strut bar!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BACKintheDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was the one who sold you that Neuspeed strut bar!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, and it's happily sitting in the engine bay!

Just in case you haven't seen this thread, here's more DA's:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1056049

Hope they don't mind:



Some other clean one's:
Dave's pre-Jtuned:


Jimmy before the Enkei's:


Schu's GSR:


TightE46's:


Verny:


R2D2:


VTEC-DA9 before he sold out... I mean it :


Endless SoCal DA meet pix: http://www.kurisukurusu.com/carstuff/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrayT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Chase is correct on his theory. The bigger the front sway the more understeer... so if you have NO front sway obviously very minimal understeer.

I would only remove the front sway if you upgrade the rear to anything about 19mm though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, chase is right and jdmda9 is a tool....he seems like he thinks he knows his **** so well...he once tried to tell me my car's paintjob was crap because it looked liked it was off with the bad lighting i took my pictures in!

 

so hott

da is the best honda eva!