thanks guys ...
i just redrilled the indicators and added in a 194 capless bulb holder and wired up to my OEM sidelights...yes man 194s in the sidelights

 

Thanks!

Here are a few pics of my teg. Last time i posted a pic of my car was in Feb. I was the guy with the rusted hood DA with the B17. Gone through many changes. Hope you guys like my DA. Needs work more love i know lol

 

hey guys need a little help: http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...les-hydro-conv

 

it was like $60 to put in a new turbine seal and new journal bearing seals.
Although I'm glad I was right on the idea it was getting too much oil and trusted my gut. At first he insisted it was fine.

I don't know, he is kinda shitting the bed on communication with me on it.
I want it back ASAP!
Got my ecu parts today, so I need to order my boost control solenoid and have boost by gear!

 

to let you know. not all of the sandwich plates are from a filtered source. which on do you have?

 

I mentioned it above and I am aware, I have the MFactory plate.
Which if I remember correctly and from looking at it, it's filtered.

 

Colin put it well in his post on G2IC.
I would have to guess that maybe the cable is not properly adjusted.
I am also not a fan of the Hydro trans

 

i guess thats not too bad matt but if he rebuilt it shouldn't he be covering it?

 

cause i dont feel like it, maybe when it gets back from getting tuned.. yeah i will. Matt i can get you specs on the engine if you would like.

so buying a fully built engine that retains a WARRANTY and paying a shop 500-600 in labor to install everything engine, convert to obd1, install turbo kit, and wire tuck the bay makes you upset.

i would say its just smart. and that 500-600 in labor also includes tuning time, for two fuel maps, at low boost and at high boost.

this doesnt mean i dont put wrench time in my cars, it just was smarter for me to do that, while i put wrench time in my DB* integra, which is getting completely overhauled too.

i am just one person, i dont have the time to complete two cars by the summer. (complete overhaul on both).

and then maintain my daily, and then go to school full time, and work a part time job, so u can get off my **** whenever you please.

if you had the money, you would do it too, put in my situation.

 

Just trying to kill the bench racing, you never know, it could make 350 or 600!
NOTHING is given no matter which parts you use that compare to some guy who made XXX power.
If you don't mind sharing them, sure, always good too see different builds!

 

the guys its at, at the moment knows his honda's and broke 748 on the b20v that was in his wifes car.

i trust this guy, i ll be happy with 450, but hell if it can do 600 thats just bragging rights.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/90hondadas-build-thread-bring-first-honda-project-2795750/

i gues my brother posted up a build thread for the car matt.

the strictly engine specs. ignore the quoted prices, we didnt pay that.

B20Z Block $800
CP pistons 9.8:1 .20 over pistons $650
eagle rods $425
ARP custom headstuds $150
New bearings Main/Rod/Thrust $210
Golden eagle headgasket $100
Golden eagle ls/vtec kit $165
rotating assembly balanced $190
New GSR OEM oil pump $135
New GSR OEM timing belt $65
New GSR OEM waterpump $86
New OEM Oil pan gasket $24
B16 99 Si vtec head $400
Skunk2 new Stg1 cams $500
Machine work $275
Labor assembly $500

i ll get the rest of the specs, when i find where i managed to put them.

 

b20vtecs on boost is bad news. also you overpaid for like half the **** on that list so I would stop advertising how much money you've spent. i bought my b20 bottom end with wiseco pistons and eagle rods for $350, brand new CP pistons for $450, $100 bucks for bearings, $150 for machine work, $75 for new ARP studs, $95 for my Golden Eagle LS/Vtec sandwich plate and oil feed line, and nothing for labor. I could have have assembled the engine and blown it up, then built another one for the price you've paid for one. And you don't have the pride of it being your own hard work. But I didn't have to. It made 240 whp/160 tq and sees 9k RPM's every time it's run. You don't need a warranty if you do things right.

 

here i edited my post, so maybe you can read it now... please feel free to go back and do so..

i ll have an updated list, we changed some stuff since that quote, and there is nothing with a b20v on boost unless your tune blows ***, b20's are prone to sleeve walk and thats it, but a GE block guard solves that. The engine is only revving to 8500rpms.

here is the final quote with turbo info and everything
B20Z1 BLOCK GE BLOCK GAURD CP
PISTONS 9.5:1 COMPRESSION EAGLE
RODS, ARP HEADSTUDS, OEM OIL
PUMP GSR, WATERPUMP TIMING
BELT.B16 HEAD VTEC. ACL Race BEARINGS.

Transmission TYPE-R TRANSMISSION
Turbo Manifold PFAB LOG STYLE TURBO MANIFOLD
Turbo PRECISION 6262E Billet wheel T3/T4
Intercooler FMIC INTERCOOLER CORE
Hondata S300 HONDATA
Jumper harness OBD0-OBD1 JUMPER HARNESS
Clutch kit Competition stage4
Flywheel competition flywheel
ECU P28 ECU OBD1 150.00 150.00
Wastegate TIAL 38MM WASTEGATE
Blow Off valve TIAL 50MM BLOWOFF VALVE
Downpipe TURBO DOWNPIPE 3"
Piping INTERCOOLER PIPING WITH COUPLERS CLAMPS
Custom 3 inch exhaust with vibrant muffler.

 

Ahhh so this is my car actually my brother bought it for me for graduation ^^^

Why out of all the group threads the DAs tend you hate on each other the most.

I honestly dont give a flying **** what you built your engine for, or that you can build two of em for. And that 240whp isnt that impressive so i wouldnt brag about how cheap your build is, when your number dont back it up.

 

Well I see a few issues with your quest for big power.
B20 blocks are not great for turbo, especially not 8500 rpm, honestly you are dreaming. Block guards are also a false sense of security and are junk. Sleeve then you will be ok however if not I highly suggest you get rid of it!
Tuners can't make up for stroke, in the B20 case, all the stroke!

Log manifolds are ok up to a certain power range then become inefficient. Spend the money on a quality ram horn or top mount!


Don't see many high hp cars with one 38mm gate do ya? This will also be inefficient at regulating boost. 44 or 60mm are they way to go if power is your goal.


Again just trying to offer advice no bashing!
If you don't trust me, please go look around or survey the Forced Induction forum about a boosted B20 and one 38mm gate for your power goals. You will see there aren't many at all.

There is no hate going on, just honest opinions and facts......
Chill and relax, come back correct and you may learn some things!
240 wheel in an all motor B is very impressive, shows how much you don't know.

 

95-db6-719- I thought you said that it was your brothers DA? so I think your brother is 90hondaDA. anyway, can't we all just get along?

 

it could just be something from previous damage from first turbo rebuld

 

yeah i guess we shall just see, from the dyno sheet, if she makes 450.. by all means we will be happy. I agree with some comments.. we have done our research, on the b20 issue and the log manifold issue,

yeah these might be issues at consistent 600, but the log will get into boost faster than a ramhorn will on average from what i have read. This will also be a tubular log, not a cast. Also the sleeves are said to be ****, i have read this, only general issue i read was sleeve walk, which from what i read a block guard fixes. Also they might not hold at the boost needed for 600 consistently, but we hope it makes one pass at 600, and we will leave it at that. Its all about the tune, sleeved or not. I saw a stock sleeved d16y8 make almost 260 horses on a stock bottom end and stock sleeves. and be driven like that for a year before he sold it.

i do appriciate the advice matt, like i said we shall see and go from there. I have a b18b and a b18c1 just lying around if it fails. so no worries.

 

Yea, I don't really know, guess I will have to see.
Honestly am not too worried about it.

I wouldn't even say at that power level, the B20 block is your biggest power. Your turbo isn't HUGE so that's ok but most turbo setups make peak power HIGH in the revs, at least on common Honda setups. The B20 block does not enjoy being revved that high, block guard or not.

The log COULD get into boost however as mentioned before it isn't as effective as other pieces, esp. at high power levels. NCSI is making some decent power on a log manifold.... but probably no where near what you are expecting.

There are plenty of single cam motors making 400+ on stock sleeves but you can't go by what those people make. EVERYTHING is different trust me.

Good luck though, lets see how it turns out.

I'd also recommend changing out the wastegate, while the MVS is a great piece you really need something larger!

 

A stock sleeved d16 making 260 and a b20, with THINNER cylinder walls, making 600 are so different it's crazy. That motor won't even hold 450 for more than a month or two.

 

The b20 block also does NOT have a main girdle like the GSR. If you intend to rev that motor above the factory limit, it's a big thing you will want/need to have. Some guys like to have the oil squirters but I found that they don't really make much of a difference.

 

Yeah i looked into that too, i might be wrong with what i stated it revving to 8500, it might be 8k. I am assured by the guy thats building this engine, and designed this entire setup. We orignally just wanted 400whp. Me and my brother later settled on on 450 for everyday.

Its under warranty on the work and the 450 being reliable. If i blows after a month, i drop it back off at the shop and they will fix it and we shall have it sleeved GE sleeved. I asked about the girdle or running Arp main studs instead of the girdle.he said its not revving high enough to need either. I mean no offense guys but this guy builds fast *** reliable honda's on a daily basis. With a LSV breaking 210 whp at a mile high with all oem parts(by that i mean, no aftermarket, it was either gsr, itr, or ls parts).

i appreciate the advice as i know its all meant with good intentions, with us not having to tear her down to re due it. Like i said we shall see how she turns out and how she holds up.

The only point i was trying to make with the d16, was that the entitre bottom end was stock, no forged anything, no new bearings, rings, or anything, just a new timing side freshen up and arp headstuds and a new oem headgasket.

 

Yea but 400, even 450 are not given so just be aware of that. You can't just pick parts and a number. You need to choose parts that will work well together.

No offense taken however as I mentioned earlier this guy is selling you a service and a product, would you undersell yourself?
Please look in the FI forum and find some B20 vtec turbo setups, there will be slim to none making more than around 300hp. There is a good reason for that.

 

Damn that DA looks badass on the BBS rims.

Matt; ya I went with the AEBS manifold as it came with the head. The head had a slight P&P and the intake was port matched. I'm not expecting the world out of it thats forsure.

It's really just a ITR intake with a larger 68mm TB opening and bigger plenum. I'll see what happens but I'm sure eventually I'll switch to a victor x and move from a 68mm TB to a full 70mm.

I do hate how the victor x sits so low though, but well see. At this point I'm going to see how things go and make adjustments.

Thats weird about your turbo. I'd say it's from the turbo itself. You never know what can float around before it's sealed up brand new. It's possible is all I'm saying.

I think the Mfactory and the GE oil sandwich's are two of only like 3 (just guessing) that are supplying clean oil. I wouldn't blame the adapter.


On the topic of the B20V turbo; shooting for 600 isn't really even realistic at your setup. I'm not trying to be mean. I'm not even sure why a shop would build that or promise those WHP numbers. I thought forsure it was sleeved.

I'm running arp mains because I choose not to run a "girdle" with my LS bottom and the block was getting an align hone anyways from getting sleeved. So to keep things on the stronger side I went with them. I hope they hold well, lol

In a long way I'm trying to say that your build is being under built and over promised.

Now lets talk about something else other then bench racing! Our drag season is over here in Canada. No snow and we are still seeing 16 degree celcius days. People are just babies here. No love for motor sports. Everyone is to "hip" and "green" to support it....gay.

 

I understand guys with everyones concern on the b20v making good power i have heard it over and over. I found a thread with nothing but b20 setups i asked the guys some of the issues such as sleeve walk and such. They suggested under 20psi on stock sleeves is fine, with no block guard...

They all stated that with a good tune it is possible to make good power. That with the B20 tune is most important.