You shouldn't be running a guessed tune for your setup. If it's getting tuned then there would be an optimal VTEC point. You definitely shouldn't go by how it felt in other people's car either. Either, get it tuned or run a base map from something else.

 

idk 4600 seems offly low for a stock ecu to engage, and i asked a friend and he said the butterfly set up kinda has a 2 step with vtec. or idk.. its hard to explain, but i swear the cross over at 4600 is a hella different sound signature. i thought it was supposed to crossover stock at 5800..

 

Hey guys, just picked up an Aztec Green '92 GS-R. This is my 2nd integra, 1st one was a '96 GSR, got out of the scene and decided to get back into it. Plan on a simple weekend warrior for autox.

Terrible pics - sorry about the size. Desperately needs paint. Anyone know where I can get OEM paint?

 

Its not getting tuned right now, he's just programming my ecu for me, im most likely going to use the basemap that he already has for optimum performance from a stock b20vtec set up, should be fun.

 

hey everyone from nor cal were do you go get your smog???i have a b16swap in my DA n for sure i aint going to pass n just want to pay some foo off im willing to do 200 but the lower the better!!!hit me up with some locations plz live between san jose n santa clara!!!thanks!!

 

It's a huge pic, so beware, but you can see the outline of the side profile of the traction bar and how it compares to the ITR replica 4-1 as well as the stock front lip. CLICK ME.

 

ok one more thing though both colin and matt have the 92 bumper i have the 91 lol not sure if one is higher then the other either way im gonna have to raise my front end up because my front lip almost touch the ground my front end needs to be raised anyway i dont like how it looks with it that low and the rear isnt as low as the front

 

i like how your da sits colin i want mine at that height

 

Yes, VTEC engages at ~4,500 with the P72 intake manifold and ECU. The 2 stage intake manifold opens the butterflies at ~5,500 RPM for high RPM power. It's supposed to be that way.

 

and for those who are building na motors make sure you figure out your dynamic compression ratio i just read a 3 page article on it and sooooooooooooo many people pick the wrong compression cam combo no wonder why i see motors with similair compression make such diffrent hp numbers lets just say bigger isnt always better

 

Yep.

A ton of folks building NA engines don't get enough dynamic compression because they choose cams that have too much overlap for their static compression ratio.

 

thats good to know, because i am gonna be picking up a built type r engine, basically stock head. with a 3 angle valve job, 12:1 wiesco pistons, eagle h beam rods, and polished crank.

in a month.. i might give my brother my b18c1 for his DA, idk. lol.. gotta love 80k settlements.

 

yup you want a dynamic compression ratio anywhere from 9.0:1 to 11.0:1 with race motors around 10:1 to 11:1 my motor which has a static compression of around 10.9:1 with skunk2 tuner stage 2 cams would have a dynamic compression of about 9.5:1 and the smaller the cam with my setup say gsr cams would be a higher dynamic compression

 

Tuning and programming and ecu are essentially the same thing........
How is his basemap optimum performance?
Hate to burst your bubble but not map will run the same on every motor. Each motor is different.

I would advise you to look into and EMS or at least a Vtec controller so you can alter fuel.

Please don't be one of those kids that half-asses one of the most important things!

 

with that set up to have the best dynamic compression ratio to run on pump gas you would need like skunk2 tuner 2 or pro 1 cams or even pro 2 for the best results

 

Guys need some input before I go buy a new Dizzy.

Here is the issue, about 5 minutes into driving my tach starts to go haywire and if I try to give it some throttle it breaks up a bit. Before that time the car runs great!

This all seemed to have started when my upper rad hose burst.
This weekend I removed the dizzy cover to check it out, only to find the rotor was just hanging in there because the screw worked itself out.

I tapped the hole and put a new rotor on. I also put dielectric grease on all the connections and resat them.

Before I go buy a new ignitor or coil, or whole new dizzy I wanted to see if I am missing something.

 

x2 put that car on a dyno and get it tuned with a legit program

 

http://ftlracing.com/tech/engine/dynamiccr.html

here is a pretty good write up on cam and compression choice

 

from experience with this id say its the ignitor a buddy of mine just went threw the same thing with the tach jumping and the car breaking up and it was his ignitor changed the dizzy and it was fixed

 

Wait, he put a whole new dizzy in and not just a new ignitor?

 

yea i told him i had a ignitor for him but he didnt wanna mess with it i think he got a dizzy from jj that he had but im sure it was the ignitor that was going bad

 

Trying to source one locally, so we will see how that goes. Hopefully it cures it.
Got a chance to get on it a few times though tonight, wow! Bwhahahaha scared the crap out of some people walking down the road.

 

Thanks, that pic is old, so I'm currently running different wheels and a slightly different ride height, but not much different (little bit higher than pictured). My current ride height is set completely based on suspension travel and weight balance and not at all based on looks. It's pretty much as low as it'll go and retain good suspension travel in the front. The suspension travel in the rear isn't as much of an issue with it needing to be in a certain spot so after setting the front the rear was dropped more to help transfer weight (also driver front is higher than passenger front to compensate for my weight). I didn't corner weight the car, but had the opportunity last month to get it onto some scales to at least check the weights. It wasn't perfect by any means, but considering it was basically my "best guess" it was extremely close. Eventually I'd like to make some more tweaks to the suspension and then have Darrin corner weight the car. I'd also like to try and take some weight off the front (not much more I can do), cause even with a near full tank of gas it's extremely front heavy.

And in regard to the tuning conversation... DEFINITELY get your engine tuned, it's well worth the money and I can't believe so many people skimp. When Church tuned my engine I came in with a basemap from an engine (tuned by Church) that was very similar to mine. The only real difference was the basemap was created on an engine with more compression but a smaller header. Shawn was able to extract 4lbft of peak torque and 8 peak hp. Yes, that's not much, but he was also able to pull my curves up 10-20lbft and 8-18hp in the midrange which made a HUGE difference in how the car drove. Not to mention that after tuning your engine should be a lot safer (regarding running lean or rich) and quite possibly get better gas mileage too.

 

Good stuff as always!
It seems people only associate tuning with creating power however to me it's all about creating a safe, good running engine.

 

Lets just say I was young once and learned my lesson...