I can't wait to drive my car again, over the winter i replaced all of the worn bushings, new tie rods, new ball joints, and upper control arms. Just gotta mount some tires and alignment and hopefully the difference is noticeable. It felt sloppy before hitting bumps

 

did you replace the steering rack and front lower arm bushings, and shock top mount bushings too? It should feel very very nice herb.

 

I didn't mess with the steering rack because i'm going to replace it with a manual one over the winter, yeah i replaced the bushings on the front arms to, basicly anything that was dryrotted is gone. I replaced the shock mount bushings to because the koni shock tube wouldn't fit through the original one. I didn't do the traling arm bushing though, but it wasn't in bad shape either

 

I even replaced the old bumpstops to lol, forgot about that

 

You may think the trailing arm bushing isn't bad, but I'm 100% sure it's bad if it's never been replaced before. It looks like its ok until you actually take it out. That's one of the main things you should of replaced.

This is how mine looked after I took it out the trailing arm


When it's in the trailing arm it looks like nothing is wrong.

You need to put a new one in like this.

 

They were replaced before i bought the car by the previous owner

 

Is it a Honda OEM bushing and was it clocked? or else its being really stressed.

 

I don't know the person i found the car online, he told me he replaced them and i have no clue what clocked means so that wouldn't of been asked anyway. It could be oem the person worked at a car dealership, i think it was a conniceli dealership and they do have a honda dealership in the area

 

Clocked just means its adjusted to your cars height so the bushing isn't binding and being stressed. Kind of like twisting someones arm. Mine is adjusted to my height that's why I'm not really changing my car's height anytime soon.

 

I really doubt it's adjusted to my car height lol I've had like 5 different suspension setups on this car

 

I need to go change my oil and wash/wax and detail the car and get it ready for summer action

 

thanks for givin me some credit matt

 

yeah, you know whats up! lol. thats another reason i love living in the middle of nowhere, great back roads to tear up. i miss tearing up back roads with my integra and cant wait to do it again. its just not the same in my hatch. and yeah, come messin around here and you can meet mr mossberg or mr savage

its on my list, trust me! i cant wait til the day i get the complete suspension overhaul done!!

geeesh matt. now see what you did? you went and made him all butt hurt!! lol, j/k

 

what spring rates are u guys running? and suspension?
since i have time to collect parts im looking in updating my set up
looking for a nice stiff feel but not so stiff that it feels like my heart is gonna pop out on every pot hole (daily with spirited driving and seeing some track time)..oh and i kinda like it when people see the car rollin and can tell its stiff ish

 

does anyone have the seatbelt assemble for a stock seat the one that goes into the power track??? in black plastics

 

Omni drag 10/12 k, very stiff and exactly as you explained above..........

 

^how much was that?

any body else please lol

 

12k 10k on swift springs here. It used to be more harsh before I did my suspension overhaul. It's actually not that bad now that I've did that. Of course pot holes are still bad, but just going over things isn't that bad now on my stiff setup. That's why I recommend everyone doing a suspension overhaul.

 

i started on my overhaul but i only got to the front control arm bushings gonna do the rest in due time

 

when you guys swap in B18C engine swaps (or even B16A for that matter) are you still using 87 octane? Any issues with that?

 

93 or higher only. i will never run cheap **** through a vtec engine or anything with higher compression or boosted

 

yea, i never ran less then premium in any vtec engine either...i even ran 89 in my old LS with just the timing advanced.

but is 10.0:1 compression really considered "high?"

 

91 octane or higher is what's required for high compression engines, using 87 or 89 would probably make it knock, but that's what a knock sensor is for so it would probably adjust the timing based on the octane. I would still never use 87 or 89, and it's really not that much of a difference anyway, so why not use the right octane?

For example 87 $ 2.99 89 $3.09 91 $3.19
87 x 10 gallons at 2.99 = 29.9, 89 x 10 gallons at 3.09 = $30.90, 91 x 10 gallons at 3.19 = $31.90. You're only paying on average $2 more or about $10 more a month using 91 octane or higher.

 

they don't really sell 91 in the east coast.

Kyle, I ran 87 in my b16 with no problems. but it def ran better with 92-93

 

no, we have 93. even though the car ran fine with 87, i still wouldn't do it. if the engine was designed to run on a certain octane, there's probably a good reason for it. plus just as you stated, it runs better