DA Integra's Only
thank you sir 
so then how is keeping a honda engine n/a but adding cams, manifolds, headers, exhausts, higher compression pistons, etc. any different from changing the stock rods/pistons out for forged pieces and adding a turbo any different? its all the same concept. either way it has to be re-tuned differently than that stock ecu. either way, you're changing the way honda designed it. i've seen n/a motors fail just as fast or faster than turbo motors, i've seen turbo motors fail faster than n/a motors, and i've seen both last just as long as the other and run for years and years. so i really don't see the difference between the two. as far as i'm concerned, its all just a matter of personal preference on this debate, as we've concluded many times before when this debate comes up. not everyone in here likes turbo. cool. not everyone in here likes to stay n/a. cool. but with either setup, it still comes down to the same thing, fuel and tuning. without using either one correctly, no matter what the setup, it will eventually fail or at the very least, not perform at its very best, which, to me, would just be a waste of the engine at that point. why have a certain engine if you're not going to use everything it has to offer?

you said "if the engine was designed to run on a certain octane, there's probably a good reason for it."
I agree with you completely. I'm thinking that honda definately designed their engines to run naturally aspirated, and probably for a good reason. unless you think that your R&D by searching online for the best turbo pistons was better then theirs when they designed then engine you put them in...
I agree with you completely. I'm thinking that honda definately designed their engines to run naturally aspirated, and probably for a good reason. unless you think that your R&D by searching online for the best turbo pistons was better then theirs when they designed then engine you put them in...
so then how is keeping a honda engine n/a but adding cams, manifolds, headers, exhausts, higher compression pistons, etc. any different from changing the stock rods/pistons out for forged pieces and adding a turbo any different? its all the same concept. either way it has to be re-tuned differently than that stock ecu. either way, you're changing the way honda designed it. i've seen n/a motors fail just as fast or faster than turbo motors, i've seen turbo motors fail faster than n/a motors, and i've seen both last just as long as the other and run for years and years. so i really don't see the difference between the two. as far as i'm concerned, its all just a matter of personal preference on this debate, as we've concluded many times before when this debate comes up. not everyone in here likes turbo. cool. not everyone in here likes to stay n/a. cool. but with either setup, it still comes down to the same thing, fuel and tuning. without using either one correctly, no matter what the setup, it will eventually fail or at the very least, not perform at its very best, which, to me, would just be a waste of the engine at that point. why have a certain engine if you're not going to use everything it has to offer?
Here are somemore pics I took today wheels are going very soon after I do the 5 lug conversion.I will be attending a g2ic meet here in miami tomarrow so I will take some better pictures of the car.




Modified by Dateggy21 at 11:04 PM 5/9/2008
Modified by Dateggy21 at 12:38 PM 5/20/2008




Modified by Dateggy21 at 11:04 PM 5/9/2008
Modified by Dateggy21 at 12:38 PM 5/20/2008
I love the 90-91 front bumpers. I really don't feel my 92-93 front bumper at all for some reason. Most people like em but i don't. Great pic BTW! Makes me reconsider about getting the 90-91 front more than ever. Looks really aggressive IMO.
ill go take some pics rite now u will have to take the stock belt tracks out i think all that stuff was out of mine when i got it but im not 100% on that ill take some pics if u want to you can txt me and ill send em to you that way 845-249-5842 n if i dont hear from u ill throww em up in here
Well going to get my exhaust made on Saturday! There is this awesome shop called Mandrel Bends Solutions. They do great work and are one of the only places in the area that can do Mandrel bends(go figure given their name
)
Then trying to get tuning figured out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
)Then trying to get tuning figured out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
lots of stuff happened this weekend, transmission hit the ground while driving and cause the reverse gear and idler to jam up, got it fixed, right after that the CEL turned on for code 43 which im thinking is a loose wire because its not affecting the drivability of the car, one problem after the other, literally almost every weekend, fml
lots of stuff happened this weekend, transmission hit the ground while driving and cause the reverse gear and idler to jam up, got it fixed, right after that the CEL turned on for code 43 which im thinking is a loose wire because its not affecting the drivability of the car, one problem after the other, literally almost every weekend, fml
That Stable Energies bar looks GHETTO. Maybe it's tougher looking than those pics lead on, but from what I'm seeing I'd stay far far away from that thing.
cars not that low anymore, i drove it around much lower that that for years with no problems, let my gf's cousin drive it for one day and he hit a bump or dip or something that hit the trans, only lesson i learned was dont let people borrow my car, my car has always been one thing after the other, alternators, dizzys, water pump, timing belt, oil pump, clutch, engine, trans, im just getting tired of something going wrong every weekend, pretty discouraging.
Is that just screwed into the plastic or actually mounted in the frame, I wonder.....
cars not that low anymore, i drove it around much lower that that for years with no problems, let my gf's cousin drive it for one day and he hit a bump or dip or something that hit the trans, only lesson i learned was dont let people borrow my car, my car has always been one thing after the other, alternators, dizzys, water pump, timing belt, oil pump, clutch, engine, trans, im just getting tired of something going wrong every weekend, pretty discouraging.
Its actully very rigid nice and tight and the harness gets real tight and everything and its mounted in the frame the pics dont really do it justice but its deff stable i just have no need for either the bar or harness thats why i want to sell it price is negotiable for sure
That's a death trap. I wouldn't take that set-up if you gave it to me for free.
Check out page 27 for wrapping instructions:
http://www.schrothracing.com/docs/Co...structions.pdf
Mind you, it has to be wrapped around a roll bar, not b-pillar bar.
It might be stable when you're sitting there but good luck should you get in any kind of accident.
Check out page 27 for wrapping instructions:
http://www.schrothracing.com/docs/Co...structions.pdf
Mind you, it has to be wrapped around a roll bar, not b-pillar bar.
It might be stable when you're sitting there but good luck should you get in any kind of accident.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
From: Mashing in the big chainring in LOS ANGELES, CA
Well idk thats how i got the car the harness shoulder straps dont have a way to mount without a bar but either way i dont want it so if anyone wants just the harness fine it really makes no diff to me ill throw the bar in the fcukin trash but thats the way it was when i got it the car was built for autocross so i assumed that it was correct
I really don't have plans on getting a JDM 1piece headlights yet, but a local guy here is selling his for a good price, so I didn't hesitate to get it..
pics. of the headlights:


needs some buffing though, and bulbs.. the guy wanted $175 for it, then when we meet up i offered him $160 and he agreed...
pics. of the headlights:


needs some buffing though, and bulbs.. the guy wanted $175 for it, then when we meet up i offered him $160 and he agreed...
You have no way of knowing how solid that bar is, you can shake it all you want and just because it feels solid doesn't mean ****. You can see by looking at it that it's not made very well and not designed very well. And I'm appalled at the price. Just like Suren mentioned, that thing is not going to hold up in an accident of any severity. And as soon as it breaks it not only leaves you w/o a seatbelt but also has the possibility of acting as a spear right through your head. Just seeing that thing makes me cringe.
The belt wrapping is definitely wrong. Thanks for posting that pdf Suren, although it almost looks like they show two different methods for wrapping shoulder harnesses to a harness bar (page 26 vs 27 diagrams). I guess there's a difference between a "3 bar slide" and a "lightweight d ring" but I can't quite see from those pics. I think I'm gonna re-read this when I can check out my belts. I know there are some tweaks I need to make them fit a bit better, but there are also some specific numbers in there I'd like to relate back to and double check against my setup.
Kyle, the lower seat belt mounting bolt holes are typically not the preferred spot. It depends on car, seat, driver...etc but often those bolt holes put the shoulder belts at too much of an angle which could result in spinal compression during an accident. Another option is to use the shoulder belt mounting location on the c-pillar, although that location isn't ideal either as its not directly behind the driver but over to the side some instead.
The belt wrapping is definitely wrong. Thanks for posting that pdf Suren, although it almost looks like they show two different methods for wrapping shoulder harnesses to a harness bar (page 26 vs 27 diagrams). I guess there's a difference between a "3 bar slide" and a "lightweight d ring" but I can't quite see from those pics. I think I'm gonna re-read this when I can check out my belts. I know there are some tweaks I need to make them fit a bit better, but there are also some specific numbers in there I'd like to relate back to and double check against my setup.
Kyle, the lower seat belt mounting bolt holes are typically not the preferred spot. It depends on car, seat, driver...etc but often those bolt holes put the shoulder belts at too much of an angle which could result in spinal compression during an accident. Another option is to use the shoulder belt mounting location on the c-pillar, although that location isn't ideal either as its not directly behind the driver but over to the side some instead.



if anyones intrested i want $150 for it






