BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Yeah like mentioned it is your money being spent on the car but im my eyes that's still being bought in a way. Unless you get dirty and shed some blood here and there it's not truley your own build. I understand not everyone has the knowledge or tools but you gotta start somewhere.
So if I buy a car and drop it off at a shop and say call me when it's finished being built then what did I even do?
So if I buy a car and drop it off at a shop and say call me when it's finished being built then what did I even do?
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I did the whole setup on my car minus the dyno tune of course and that includes making intercooler piping and the exhaust system. So by your post above that means it's not going to last? Kinda of a messed up theory IMO. I'd put my setup up against anything a shop was paid to do.
Yeah like mentioned it is your money being spent on the car but im my eyes that's still being bought in a way. Unless you get dirty and shed some blood here and there it's not truley your own build. I understand not everyone has the knowledge or tools but you gotta start somewhere.
So if I buy a car and drop it off at a shop and say call me when it's finished being built then what did I even do?
So if I buy a car and drop it off at a shop and say call me when it's finished being built then what did I even do?
My turbo was done be me and my cousin and also by RNR. Anything that we could get done we did. RNR did what we couldnt do. IE welding the dumptube, downpipe, tapping the oil pan, ETC.
I take my car to the shop for things i CANT do, everything else was done by me and my cousins and friends.
with that being said, gr8integ, Your brother friend would be considered BOUGHT in my EYES. IF you cant even change your own oil then you shouldnt be driving a machine like that, my 2cent.
On another note.. Im looking into painting my car. Not shop paint but either rustoluem or rattle can for the time being. I plan on wet sanding with 400 grit and then buffing out the paint. IF it looks good i'll leave it at that. IF it doesnt than im planning on repaint it white.
Well see how it goes since weather is crappy ATM.
Thats why i am glad i am doing at least half the work on my car, i mean i could do my swap and turbo it would just take wayyyy longer but considering i did all my suspension and interior work. I consider mine built. Starting out at 500 bucks to building a monster
hey What's up everyone? I have a quick question.... Since I an running a B20B in my 90 LS would these headers fit without any issues? let me know what y'all think.
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...Q5fAccessories
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...Q5fAccessories
Dang I don't think that link worked ...let me try this way..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories
I don't have a honda but this is how my car looked when I first got it:

build pics:





building the megasquirt ecu:

current:

GT2860 turbo w/ vbands, 12psi around 250whp hand built and tuned.

build pics:
building the megasquirt ecu:

current:

GT2860 turbo w/ vbands, 12psi around 250whp hand built and tuned.
Dang I don't think that link worked ...let me try this way..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories
But, are you running the same head and block?
I am asking this cause if you're running a B20B head, and trying to buy a B16 head, I believe it wouldn't work. I'm no expert on motors aside from the D series motor in my CRX when I got it and the b16a2 motor I put in my crx now.
Also, to tie into the recent turn of discussion:
I believe that this thread is more so for people who bought their car in a typical stock condition and then did 80% or 85% of the work themselves on the car. For example, my 88 crx si now has a roll cage (with interior still in it), fiberglass fenders, b16a2 motor and integra tranny, rear disc brake conversion, stainless steel headers, custom stainless steel exhaust with y pipe and straight pipe, stage 3 racing clutch, etc. which has all been done by myself and assistance from my father. The only two thing I had someone else do was my mounting and balancing of my tires to my wheels, and then someone else to do the alignment. For anyone who doesn't know how to change their oil but had a crap ton of changes done by a shop, to me, is a ****. That's right, I said **** to generalize something just like Top Gear.

Dang I don't think that link worked ...let me try this way..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories
Holy cow dude. I gotta give you props for soldering the ecu. I have the tools to do something like that, but not the knowledge to do so. I used to race in the OVKA (Ohio Karting Association) with a friend of mine who eventually bought a Miata and started to professionally race it.
I would love to have one, but I am way too tall for one. Last one I sat in, my head pushed through the convertible roof.
I would love to have one, but I am way too tall for one. Last one I sat in, my head pushed through the convertible roof.
First off, HOLY CRAP THATS EXPENSIVE! Lol.
But, are you running the same head and block?
I am asking this cause if you're running a B20B head, and trying to buy a B16 head, I believe it wouldn't work. I'm no expert on motors aside from the D series motor in my CRX when I got it and the b16a2 motor I put in my crx now.
Also, to tie into the recent turn of discussion:
I believe that this thread is more so for people who bought their car in a typical stock condition and then did 80% or 85% of the work themselves on the car. For example, my 88 crx si now has a roll cage (with interior still in it), fiberglass fenders, b16a2 motor and integra tranny, rear disc brake conversion, stainless steel headers, custom stainless steel exhaust with y pipe and straight pipe, stage 3 racing clutch, etc. which has all been done by myself and assistance from my father. The only two thing I had someone else do was my mounting and balancing of my tires to my wheels, and then someone else to do the alignment. For anyone who doesn't know how to change their oil but had a crap ton of changes done by a shop, to me, is a ****. That's right, I said **** to generalize something just like Top Gear.

But, are you running the same head and block?
I am asking this cause if you're running a B20B head, and trying to buy a B16 head, I believe it wouldn't work. I'm no expert on motors aside from the D series motor in my CRX when I got it and the b16a2 motor I put in my crx now.
Also, to tie into the recent turn of discussion:
I believe that this thread is more so for people who bought their car in a typical stock condition and then did 80% or 85% of the work themselves on the car. For example, my 88 crx si now has a roll cage (with interior still in it), fiberglass fenders, b16a2 motor and integra tranny, rear disc brake conversion, stainless steel headers, custom stainless steel exhaust with y pipe and straight pipe, stage 3 racing clutch, etc. which has all been done by myself and assistance from my father. The only two thing I had someone else do was my mounting and balancing of my tires to my wheels, and then someone else to do the alignment. For anyone who doesn't know how to change their oil but had a crap ton of changes done by a shop, to me, is a ****. That's right, I said **** to generalize something just like Top Gear.


If I remember right, I got mine for roughly 200-300 dollars brand new stainless steel. I got it for so cheap because I found one that no one was bidding on. Gotta love bid sniping.
Been Working on this:
My Rims and Seats from the start...











My seats, Shift ****, shift boot i made, cluster, full stereo, tails, Hids, rims, rims, rims, upgraded some suspension, rear visor, lip, and a bunch more little stuff... you can see the change... lol I pilled out a bunch of painted interior parts and replaced a bunch that it needed and stuff that it was missing.
Still a Work in Progress...
Im gonna throw my B20z in it soon, im bored w/ the power from the B18b... lol
So I was at a dead stop taking a left at a busy intersection, where you have to yield for oncoming traffic. Light turns green. The truck across, was a pretty good distance away. As I'm entering the intersection, not knowing the truck changed it's pace. My friends yell out stop, I stopped completely. one second away from impact from the truck. The truck literally runs over the driver side part of my front end and the driver of the truck looked like she was about to make a break for it. Because she gave it gas and her whole undercarriage slams on my front end and gets stuck.
There's two reason why, I stopped completely. Instead of attempting to make the turn completely.
1. The safety of my passengers (two). If I was to attempt to complete the turn. My vehicle would've been side impacted on the passenger side where my two passengers were.
2. Innocent Bystanders, if I was to be side impacted. My vehicle would ricochet onto innocent bystanders.
Been pretty good so far. Kinda pissed but nothing i can really do in my situation..
As everyone can recall i got hired a week or so back, Prior to a drug test. Well i called them to see whats the hold up for me to start working.. Turns out i PASSED my drug test, HOWEVER when they did a background check my speeding tickets came back to haunt me.. I got 2 points on my driving record and they wanna review my app and see if they THINK im able to work with those points being on my record since the job is dealing with cars.. They said they will contact me within 7 days to give me a final answer.. This is day 1 and counting.. FML.
As everyone can recall i got hired a week or so back, Prior to a drug test. Well i called them to see whats the hold up for me to start working.. Turns out i PASSED my drug test, HOWEVER when they did a background check my speeding tickets came back to haunt me.. I got 2 points on my driving record and they wanna review my app and see if they THINK im able to work with those points being on my record since the job is dealing with cars.. They said they will contact me within 7 days to give me a final answer.. This is day 1 and counting.. FML.
[QUOTE=BarcodeCRXSI;44232192]First off, HOLY CRAP THATS EXPENSIVE! Lol.
But, are you running the same head and block?
I am asking this cause if you're running a B20B head, and trying to buy a B16 head, I believe it wouldn't work. I'm no expert on motors aside from the D series motor in my CRX when I got it and the b16a2 motor I put in my crx now.
well see here's the thing I do have a b16 head in my shed waiting to build that up to put onto my b20b so that I can have vtec
I just want to be able to get a good/decent header with minimal to no issues when trying to put them on...I tried to save money before and ordered some ebay 4-1 headers for my 90 integra ls and just my luck they did not fit at all..so I a s s e d out $275 and sent it to my bro in Florida see if he could use it, but he told me that it looked like it may be faulty from manufacturer. Buzz kill i was excited when i got it to install and it didn't fit.
But, are you running the same head and block?
I am asking this cause if you're running a B20B head, and trying to buy a B16 head, I believe it wouldn't work. I'm no expert on motors aside from the D series motor in my CRX when I got it and the b16a2 motor I put in my crx now.
well see here's the thing I do have a b16 head in my shed waiting to build that up to put onto my b20b so that I can have vtec
I just want to be able to get a good/decent header with minimal to no issues when trying to put them on...I tried to save money before and ordered some ebay 4-1 headers for my 90 integra ls and just my luck they did not fit at all..so I a s s e d out $275 and sent it to my bro in Florida see if he could use it, but he told me that it looked like it may be faulty from manufacturer. Buzz kill i was excited when i got it to install and it didn't fit.


