I know welding the oil return to the pan is pretty easy, but in honesty I's rather have the project a DIY (and I can't weld). So my question is what material do you use for a weld-less oil pan?

 

i went to homedepot...bough a 3/4" tap & drill set...tap'd it and used a brass fitting w/ threads on one side and a barb'd adaptr of the other...used some rubber oil lines and called it a day

 

You can tap into the block, that's how nissan guys do them

 

You can use a AN bulkhead fitting like this. http://www.bakerprecision.com/adapt14.htm

 

contact flamenco-t on this site he had a non weld kit

 

i want to know. which size?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i went to homedepot...bough a 3/4" tap & drill set...tap'd it and used a brass fitting w/ threads on one side and a barb'd adaptr of the other...used some rubber oil lines and called it a day</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did the same thing, but sealed it with ultra copper gasket maker. No leaks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i went to homedepot...bough a 3/4" tap & drill set...tap'd it and used a brass fitting w/ threads on one side and a barb'd adaptr of the other...used some rubber oil lines and called it a day</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like that idea, I'll use it on my next setup.

I JB welded a fitting onto my oil pan. Put a little on the bottom of the nut and put it on the pan, let it dry. Then slowly buildup more around it until the thing is pretty much covered. Hasn't broken off yet (knock on wood).

 

I haven't tried it yet, but for the hardcore oil changing enthusiast I'd like to chop the dipstick tube and clamp the return onto that. lol

 

just bring it to a welding shop.. should be dozens of them around.. had my oil return and bov flange welded on for $20. very good welder.

 

hey bro check out this link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=415678
scroll down bout half way and you can see where a dude used a AN bulkhead fitting with stat-o-seals, and hondabond.

i did the same thing an have had zero problems. i got the parts from http://www.anplumbing.com

part #'s
bulkhead fitting: 983210
bulkhead nut: 992410
stat-o-seals: 178014

i like the way that guy did it cause he put the fitting through the inside of the pan and tightened the nut from the outside. GL

 

I saw something interesting today on one of those domestic shows.

They were installing a centrifugal SC on a 98ish Mustang GT. To tap the oil pan they used a punch, and then used a tap. Last thing they did was screw in a fitting that had a male part on one side that screwed into the part they just threaded and a female part that accepted the fitting from their return line. Then they changed the oil to get out all of the metal flakes. Didn't drop the pan or anything.

 

If there's metal in the oil pan it won't flow out of the drain plug. The drain plug isn't the lowest part of the pan, and when the oil drains the metal just drops to the bottom anyway. Not pulling the pan is just asking for problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I saw something interesting today on one of those domestic shows.

They were installing a centrifugal SC on a 98ish Mustang GT. To tap the oil pan they used a punch, and then used a tap. Last thing they did was screw in a fitting that had a male part on one side that screwed into the part they just threaded and a female part that accepted the fitting from their return line. Then they changed the oil to get out all of the metal flakes. Didn't drop the pan or anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats about as stupid as this thread..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1547379

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by voltronR34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did the same thing, but sealed it with ultra copper gasket maker. No leaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha fogot that...yep copper gasket rtv too...leaks a lil mostly from the custom saab hacked turbo drain flange w/ a rubber line over squished w/ a worm clamp...its ot pretty but it get the jobs done...

have to be careful taping the oil pan...you only get 1-2 good holding threads...so seal'm up good and itll hold...function over fashion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I saw something interesting today on one of those domestic shows.

They were installing a centrifugal SC on a 98ish Mustang GT. To tap the oil pan they used a punch, and then used a tap. Last thing they did was screw in a fitting that had a male part on one side that screwed into the part they just threaded and a female part that accepted the fitting from their return line. Then they changed the oil to get out all of the metal flakes. Didn't drop the pan or anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93boost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats about as stupid as this thread..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1547379

</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont knock it till you try it.

when installing my s/c the instructions said to use this same method. just punching it out and getting a tap to make the threads. but i took off my oil pan to do it. its holds very well, all i used is some honda-bond and it works like a dream, no leak at all.