As was stated before, but in addition you need a diagnostic vacuum gauge. You can rent them or purchase one. They are more sensitive than your standard gauge. You need to watch the gauge for a short while to be sure there aren't intermittent needle changes. Then all you have to do is report back with your findings. It is really that simple but can tell a lot.

 

School me N3Va,

I've never used this method of troubleshooting, what are we looking at/for?

 

Ive already had a vac gauge on the car...dont see what exactly thats going to tell me as there are constantly intermittent needle changes, its a cammed car. The idle fluctuates almost between 50 to 100rpm at a time.

 

On a cammed car, due to how most can profiles have shitty vacuum, a vacuum gauge will constantly bounce around

Even on our z06 that has a huge cam, with us tuning idle to death to get it smooth, there's still a vacuum fluctuation as the rpm moves around a bit

 

Here is a basic info sheet so you get an idea (there are probably better ones out there)...

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2393/article.html

There are more things that can be figured out as well... things like burnt valves, seat recession, spark plug wire arcing, ect... usually it is best to have a video.

Having a lopey cam will do what you say "wantboost", but you always try to inject different platforms. Most Honda camshafts are mild enough on the low cam to NOT have this fluctuation. That is for a fact the whole entire point and design reason behind VTEC. Low cam for fuel economy and high cam for power. I understand his is LS, but just throwing that out there. I have no idea of the LSA and specs on "Spawne32"s cams...

 

He is using a crower 403 cam set

 

I believe I have the vac reading I was getting posted somewhere, IIRC it was only a small amount less that stock.

 

That's probably one of the worst ways to diagnose a EFI engine ive ever seen. But just for ***** and giggles, ill give it a try and see if i can point it to one of those pictures lol

 

I dont know what to think about these 403's, either way I am extremely unsatisfied with crower at this point, and the general consensus among people who have seen my car in person is that my crower cams dont have the profile listed on the cam card. According to crower, as you already know, the 403 cams were updated with the -2 prefix with a new profile that was and i quote "optimized for throttle response". However these are probably the most unaggressive sounding 220 duration cams ive ever heard. There isnt a single 4 cylinder on the planet that I know of personally that has cams this large that can idle at 500-600rpm smoothly like it did when i first started the motor up. In fact im more inclined to think that these cams are actually crower's original 403 profile which is listed below...

Part Number/Work Order Number 62403
Engine Application ACURA 1.8 LS/RS
Grind Number 238-237 DOHC
ADVERTISED CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS:

INTAKE: Duration: 238º Lift: .425 Clearance Hot: .006
EXHAUST: Duration: 237º Lift: .413 Clearance Hot: .008

The specifications listed above are based on a rocker arm ratio of 1.75 IN
1.75 EX

RECOMMENDED VALVE SPRING INFORMATION:
Part # 68181 Single Dual X Triple
Approximate spring pressure: valve closed: 060/070 LBS.
valve open: 155/165 LBS.

INTAKE Opens: -2.0 ATDC
Closes: 31.0 ABDC
EXHAUST Opens: 39.0 BBDC
Closes: -10.0 BTDC

LOBE SEPERATION 110º

Duration at .050" Intake: 209º
Exhaust: 209º
LOBE LIFT Intake: .243
Exhaust: .236

4 degrees of advance have been ground into this Camshaft.

If using "Lobe Center" method of degreeing, cam should be installed on an intake centerline of: 106º



and if you watched my first idle video i took, it becomes even more evident of that. The cam card specifications are...




Part Number/Work Order Number 62403-2
Engine Application ACURA 1.8 LS/RS
Grind Number DOHC
ADVERTISED CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS:

INTAKE: Duration: 295º Lift: .422 Clearance Hot: .006
EXHAUST: Duration: 295º Lift: .411 Clearance Hot: .008

The specifications listed above are based on a rocker arm ratio of 1.75 IN
1.75 EX

RECOMMENDED VALVE SPRING INFORMATION:
Part # 68181 Single Dual X Triple
Approximate spring pressure: valve closed: 060/070 LBS.
valve open: 155/165 LBS.

INTAKE Opens: 5.5 ATDC
Closes: 35.5 ABDC
EXHAUST Opens: 43.0 BBDC
Closes: -3.0 BTDC

LOBE SEPERATION 109º

Duration at .050" Intake: 221º
Exhaust: 220º
LOBE LIFT Intake: .241
Exhaust: .235

If using "Lobe Center" method of degreeing, cam should be installed on an intake centerline of: 105º



and that would be a HUGE difference in idle quality.

 

I have absolutely no clue why you think what type of FUEL INJECTION the engine has, has a damn thing to do with anything. The method is sound and universal. Obviously you have no clue what you are doing and I will calmly back out and stop here. You should really stop with the childish games and actually learn something for once, because clearly your engine building skills aren't up to par for anything. That would easily lead one to believe your diagnostic skills are sub par as well. Have fun.

 

I like you, Underneath all the hardass Old tymer "set in the ways" talk, you're a good dude, and you know a fair amount about what you say.

However.. Saying Rob's engine building skills isn't up to par is pretty fucken stupid... He's done this 2 different times, and each time has gotten better, his problems haven't been from his own, but from things out of his control. You know this, i know you aren't blind. Maybe its the way people come off on the internet, because you can't dictate tone. When i was up in PA tuning cars, and I was hanging with rob, he was soaking **** up like a sponge. The guy is smart, smarter then alot of people i know who actually do this for a living. Sad part is, he could probably run with quite a few dudes on this site who "think" they are good at anything in reguards to engine building or tuning. He's paved the way for the nonvtec setups.. but its run its course.

I deal with alot of guys and kids on a daily basis, between work and DDTECH, i can tell you that the best results come from wanting to have a better end results... Period. Instead of putting people down and making them feel stupid, how about you just chime in with a opinion on how to do something and leave it at that. Fact is, The childish games are stupid.. The industry is getting more cut throat everyday, and people seem to forget where they came from and who helped them the MOST to get where they are. You can talk **** about me, down my business, talk behind my back, i dont care.. I'll STILL help you and give you the best advice i would give a paying customer, why? Because thats who I am.

 

Because if i was running this ****** car with a CARB then finding out which wonky *** way a mechanical vac gauge moves might be relevant in diagnosing engine problems. However this is a electronic fuel injected car, something that we have here in the future, and any number of things could cause false readings on a vac gauge like my ****** IACV opening and closing to compensate for what im trying to get on the gauge. The fact of the matter is i have done every logical test I can think of thus far, and the only thing that remains is to actually pull my manifolds and look and see if its actually pouring out of my guides. It may very well be leaking on ONLY the exhaust side where i originally questioned how far the guides were pressed in the head, which would show absolutely NOTHING because it would just blow oil out of the exhaust and barely ever make it into the combustion chamber.

I wouldn't say that ive paved the way for anything, but ive definitely made strides to learn **** about being the UNDERDOG against the rest of the ****** community. Thousands upon thousands of moron honda drivers who barely know how their brakes work, buy entire turbo kits and cheap ebay ****, slap it on their car, and make more power then i have ever made, but they still wont have the knowledge and expertise that i possess trying to build this **** the RIGHT WAY.

My friend said it best to me last night, it doesnt ****** pay to be the underdog in anything, and hes right, im tired of being in last place. People wanna hate on me for being supercharged, non vtec, stock sleeves, automatic transmission, guess what, thats all gonna ****** change real soon. Then maybe people will start taking me the **** seriously when i have a typical cliche build making 3-4-500hp just like ever other slapped together turbo vtec car.

 

Ok, maybe I went too far, and thank you for the kind words. My whole point is you can see everything on the gauge; yes, even the ECU corrections (if any). I can understand why you don't understand why it is relevant. I am not sure how else to put it other than in this situation experience would help.If you feel that removing parts is easier, then so be it. The thing is, unless you remove the head and valves you may never see the whole picture. If a guide was installed incorrectly this should have been caught during head assembly. There is potential for the seal to be sitting too high and have gotten damaged. There is also potential for bent valves from disassebly. Many possibilities, but just like a leak down and compression test going hand and hand this is the next step beyond that...

 

Im going to put my vac gauge on it, soon as the weather clears up, and im gonna do exactly as you ask, and im gonna take a video of it, and you tell me in your expert opinion what you think is the problem.

 

It's not the test to end all tests, but right or wrong I will give you my honest opinion assuming there is readable data from the gauge.

There are a couple members on here waiting for my "expert" opinion. Hah, never said I was one of those though. I have actually always hated the terms expert and professional.

 

Damn man just read through your whole thread and its packed with good information and insight on a DIY complete engine build that's not on a endless budget! Couldn't stop reading this.
I know it seems like endless problems, but i have to say "what doesn't kill you makes you stronger"! think about how much your learning about your Honda

Hope all these phantom problems f**k*ng disappear and she'll be done soon!
Good luck my man

 

Stick with it Spawne. I just sold my car last night and I was in a really similar postition as you. I did my own build (first one) and wanted to use quality parts and gain knowledge getting there to do it the RIGHT WAY. I know it sucks to see that people do the typical generic build, but you're an innovator. I've followed your build, but have been out of it for a little bit. You seem like a sharp guy who is trying to do everything that you can to learn things correctly. Stick with it man!

 

It's gonna be in the car for a while, I dont have the funds to build a new motor just like that. lol I appreciate the support though. Hasnt smoked at all since the other night, so it just adds even more to the mystery. Replaced the PCV valve again today, the check ball inside this one seems to move a little bit more freely this time around. Although i dont really think that is the source of the problem.

 

Well this is gonna be my last post in this thread, as the car is no longer supercharged, and no longer boosted, and ill be making a new thread for the new build as well in the coming weeks. I figured id leave it with this picture I just got from the local track photographer, gonna be getting some prints as well.

 

Are you using your booster seat in the picture?

 

haha, thats cute, no those shitty old school recaros sit about a 1/2" higher then OEM seats on the bride RO rails.

 

Are you really cross eyed or is it just the picture? If it's the picture, I wouldn't pay for anything...

 

would anyone else like to chime in with the trolls

 

I think it's just the light reflecting of his glasses. How much do they charge for pictures Spawne ? (Out of interest).

 

8x10 $20.00
11x14 $25.00
13x19 $45.00
20x30 $100.00

or if they have a series of pictures, they will even do a calender lol