yeh, the standard case it came with to attach to the mount, unless there is an open case i can be using as well

 

oh well look at that, a 40 dollar standard plastic frame :rollseyes:

 

what go pro do you have 1, 2, or 3?

 

hero3 white edition, that was recording in 720p

 

Get a external mic with the bare frame case and your audio will be much better.

 

things are so damn expensive

 

lol yeah 50 bucks, plus the 20 for the adapter and then like 10bucks for a ebay mic which while not the best but will work better then the stock one, and you could get a wireless one and run the mic to the engine bay or outside or where ever you damn please.

 

Wow, you in car video brings back memories of my interior before the transformation.

 

Peanut butter guts

 

It kinda grows on ya after a while lol

 

So degree'd the 403's today, both cams had to be retarded about a half a degree. Start the car up, runs like dogshit and lost a ton of top end lol go figure my cams being off were somehow working better for me then the cams being degree'd properly. So back to the ****** drawing board again.

 

im sorry, but 1/2 degree isnt any reason for a car to run like ****. You wont even notice 1/2 degree.

hell, you can have a timing belt off a whole tooth and most cars will still run decent.

 

Not sure what to tell you, i had to remove 6% fuel in the low end and 4% fuel in the top end, that to me is a power loss.

 

Yes that is definitely a loss of power, but I would HIGHLY suspect anything else besides cams being off 1/2 degree.

 

Do you have any idea how many crank degree's a half of a degree was on the degree wheel? We went from 13 BTDC intake opening to 5 degrees BTDC intake opening in that half a degree.

 

crank rotates twice to every one cam rotation.... 1/2 degree on the cam means 1 degree on crank.

are you sure your arent talking about 1/2 tooth??????

 

Are the numbers on the cam gears not measuring cam degree's? I suppose you could say i retarded it a 1/2 a tooth on each gear a guess.

 

each mark is 10 degrees ,since the cam is measuring 180 degrees, half the cam gear is 90 degrees, yeh i guess a 1/2 a tooth your right

 

OK... because youve been talking about DEGREES this whole time. kinda confusing. 1/2 tooth does not mean 1/2 degree.

 

my fault, always called the numbers on the gear degree's lol gonna start addressing it as teeth now. Question remains, how the hell did i lose this much by going a 1/2 a tooth to correct the specs.

 

I would say that you should tune the cams to your specific engine... every engine/build is going to react slightly differently to the same set of cams. Degreeing specs from the manufacturer are just a STARTING point. Tune them to your needs.

Also, if you retarded the intake cam, you should recheck your base ignition timing.

 

Oh yes absolutely, thats the reason i degree'd them because i wanted to be certain of how far off they were, i was just shocked at how much i actually lost. I just got done worth of about 30 minutes of tuning on these adjustments, and ive had to drop my overall fuel value from 18 to 14 just to get it to run within some sense of a reasonable AFR, not to mention im still in the 12's in the top end. It just seems like an utterly ridiculous amount of change.

Question now is, the direction they were before was the direction they wanted to be, but which one do i start turning first, the exhaust or the intake.

 

welp, looks like im gonna be replacing my valve stem seals lol

 

man I spent 3-4 day degree-ng in my motor. I hope mine will react differently.

 

Im thoroughly convinced now that we actually went backwards on the gears rather then the correct way. I think the clockwise rotation degree wheel we had for small block's was throwing us off, even though i specifically tried to compensate for the fact that this is a reverse rotation motor.