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Yea its a ramey shortblock. Its clearanced for 20w50.
-Mains are for the most part: .0024; .0025; and one at .0028
-Rods are at: 0021; and .0022.
They didnt send me the final deck height.
Pistons are wiseco -2.3CC, 30mm CH. static compression will be back to near 10.8 compression.
Got the surface lock, flywheel, and clutch installed. Then decided since im way more stout now than i was in my 20s, when i was lifting these tranny all the time, that i would bench it up again. Slid it onto my chest. Then pressed that bitch right up there no problem. ****** would go in. Did that like four times. Then decided to go get the jack lol. As im looking at it for overhead, i still had three tranny bolts threaded into it lol. Put them back i so i remember which length goes where.
Anyways, got it all back together. New speedfactory magnetic drain plugs and detent springs. From comparison, the speedfactory ones are longer and stiffer. Have prolly two days of engine bay work left. Waiting on headgasket from golden eagle. Gona order my torco fluids, then pick up some basic supertech oil to flush any debris for startup. Then change to the sr1 oil.
Still will have to pump out all the BS fuel out of the tank. And put the fuel filter in the cleaner
Looks like my specs are as follows...
Mains- all are .0025 expect one that's. 0023
Rods- all are .0030 expect one that's. 0027
Looking good man!! You went with their 750hp block package correct? That's what I'm running. I'll see if I can find my spec sheet.
yea i went with their 750whp build, except with an LS crank. Also wanted 10.8 compression pistons. So didnt go with their diamond pistons. Were the diamond brand pistons coated on top?
Originally Posted by GEN2 LS
Looks like my specs are as follows...
Mains- all are .0025 expect one that's. 0023
Rods- all are .0030 expect one that's. 0027
Piston to skirt clearance - .0035
the clearances on your mains look good. Rod bearing clearance are YUGE though lol. My piston to skirt is at .0045
yea i went with their 750whp build, except with an LS crank. Also wanted 10.8 compression pistons. So didnt go with their diamond pistons. Were the diamond brand pistons coated on top?
the clearances on your mains look good. Rod bearing clearance are YUGE though lol. My piston to skirt is at .0045
That extra torque from the crank will be nice! I wanted to go that route but decided to just keep my gsr crank. Mine came with custom spec Wiesco's so I didn't have the diamond pistons either.
Yeah I dunno why but I won't question their engine building techniques as their track record seems solid so far lol.
That extra torque from the crank will be nice! I wanted to go that route but decided to just keep my gsr crank. Mine came with custom spec Wiesco's so I didn't have the diamond pistons either.
Yeah I dunno why but I won't question their engine building techniques as their track record seems solid so far lol.
Gotcha, i had to say something to the guy that i wanted to go 84x89mm a couple times lol. I also didnt have a block or crank core. For some reason i thought you had their diamond pistons
I was not fond of their communication. But have read that their quality will be par my liking.
Gotcha, i had to say something to the guy that i wanted to go 84x89mm a couple times lol. I also didnt have a block or crank core. For some reason i thought you had their diamond pistons
I was not fond of their communication. But have read that their quality will be par my liking.
Nah I think if I went with the higher horsepower block I would have opted for the diamonds but I don't even intend on this motor pushing more than 550hp max tbh. So 750 package was good for me.
Yeah we had a slight communication issue where apparently they called/emailed me but I never received either. We verified contact info and it was all correct. No harm no foul as they were the best communication wise and answering questions compared to other companies I reached out to also like stated I've heard nothing but positive response from ever person running their pre-built shortblocks.
Looks like my specs are as follows...
Mains- all are .0025 expect one that's. 0023
Rods- all are .0030 expect one that's. 0027
Piston to skirt clearance - .0035
Sheeesh yea those are also huge. Like you guys said tho they know what they are doing. Are your blocks using all oem bearings or are they line honed for that clearance?
Sheeesh yea those are also huge. Like you guys said tho they know what they are doing. Are your blocks using all oem bearings or are they line honed for that clearance?
I'm assuming line honed for said clearances. Spec sheet on mine says they're ACL bearings.
Nah I think if I went with the higher horsepower block I would have opted for the diamonds but I don't even intend on this motor pushing more than 550hp max tbh. So 750 package was good for me.
Yeah we had a slight communication issue where apparently they called/emailed me but I never received either. We verified contact info and it was all correct. No harm no foul as they were the best communication wise and answering questions compared to other companies I reached out to also like stated I've heard nothing but positive response from ever person running their pre-built shortblocks.
Yea.., lack or poor communication really ****** bothers me. Im not gona say how things went from my experience. Ill just say, it really ****** bothered me. Lucky i had other life stress that over ruled this nonsense lol. I dont predict ill want to go over 600whp. But never can know. Still need to get the trans built but who knows
Originally Posted by Pepe14
Sheeesh yea those are also huge. Like you guys said tho they know what they are doing. Are your blocks using all oem bearings or are they line honed for that clearance?
Originally Posted by GEN2 LS
I'm assuming line honed for said clearances. Spec sheet on mine says they're ACL bearings.
ACL race here.
Go ahead and get you a block ordered hatchy lol. Join the ramey built militia lol.
Yea there should be a bolt on the rear driver side.
No **** lol. Learn something new everyday haha
Originally Posted by Pepe14
How are you routing your oil cooler lines? I have mine like this
my lines are ran very simliar to yours. However, im going over the mount, hugging the frame rail, zip tied to the hardline there, then over the alternator. I never like running any hoses near the crank pulley or the timing belt
I tired 90, then 45 degree fittings. Still too close to the water pipe. Even dented it in for them to clear. But once the sandwich plate was torqued down, the 45s would just kiss the water pipe. Was worried about it vibrating and rubbing thru eventually. So i just rotated the sandwich plate, and order more fittings(the banjos) once again.
I know what you mean about the power suppy. Thats why i made enough line for it to loop clear away from it. I really wish there was a cleaner route underneath the frame rail. Away from moving or spinning parts.
Edit...
Picked up some bs 20w50 oil from wally world to prime and flush the system. While i was looking for a shitty non synthetic non detergent oil, notice they now sale vr1 oil. And in 20w50 at that. So for all you big clearance guys, load up
Oh i didnt buy that stuff lol. I wanted to get the super cheaper supertech brand lol. But they didnt have my weight. The vr1 at walmart was tag as 26 dollars and some change. I dont want anything with higher zinc for flushing, priming, and startup. I did however order my fluids from torcousa. So hopefully in a few days itll be here.
Head and everything should be back together this weekend. Lowered on the ground and ready for startup. Still will need to adjust the basemap for increased volume on the link software
Homedepot usually has the best prices on cheap oil. I used t4 for the first 10 min start, flushed that out with vr1. I need to look into a better oil really soon. I want the high zinc content
Homedepot usually has the best prices on cheap oil. I used t4 for the first 10 min start, flushed that out with vr1. I need to look into a better oil really soon. I want the high zinc content
Just ordered four quarts and their mtf fluid. Depending on your synchros, their mtf mite be a good ideal for you aswell. If your setup is getting that hot from the 20min laps
Originally Posted by Pepe14
I went from the gsr crank to ls and the tune is just about the same.
im going from 1.74L to 2L. The 84mm b16 to an 84x89 gsr
Just ordered four quarts and their mtf fluid. Depending on your synchros, their mtf mite be a good ideal for you aswell. If your setup is getting that hot from the 20min laps
im going from 1.74L to 2L. The 84mm b16 to an 84x89 gsr
Got the timing locked it. Not happy with the belts tension at TDC. Even rotated it a few degrees prior to tightening the tensioner
Fuel hanger painted and out back into place
When i decide to finally get my coolant water sensor and guage setup, i will be using this port. The hose loops around to the thermostwt housing. Instead of using the radiator adapter or the fancy speedfactory thermostat housing
mechanical all done other installing the battery, new spark plugs, coils/plate, wheels and axle nuts. Also still need to fill the tranny fluid, gas, prime the engine, and bleed the coolant. Feels good to finally be done
Bonus pic. Looks what happen to these plugs. From whatever was happening with that BS cam2 fuel that only sat for six months
That hose is the coolant bypass hose to open the thermostat. Mine was leaking friday from where the clamp grabs and i attempted to bend up some straight 5/8th hose but failed so i just trimmed the hose back and reinstalled it.
Im never happy with the tension on my timing belt but i always pull up on the tensioner with 3/16 welding rod and get the tension i want like that.
Yea i had the bypass hose rip on me before. On the dyno. We just trimmed it back aswell.
Not sure what you mean by pulling up on the tensioner with welding rod. Could you explain? Because i was about to look up secondary tensioners. I dont want to cut up my timing cover though. Theres enough slack at TDC to where i can forcibly slide the belt off the gears. So this needs to get addressed.
Edit..
I know what youre talkimg bout lol. Just another version of the coat hanger trick. Im gona pull thre overs off again. End up only have a few metal coat hangers left. Somehow used alot of them on smores during my bonfires. Left thd spring on the tensioner. Made a small j-hook from the hanger and hooked the spring. Was able to get it tighter. Does not slide off AS easy anymore.
Last edited by ls joker; Aug 11, 2024 at 01:31 PM.
Re: ''simply BLACK''
