''simply BLACK''
Obd2 engine side connectors, obd1 ecu connectors, p28 casing, link g4x ecu
ill have to remember that link for electrical hardware for the future. Theres a big chance ill be need to order an obd2b distributor end connector. For when i convert to hall effect cam sensor. Then removing the dizzy. Wiring into the cyp i believe. And get my voltages from distributor power. Which is gona be a whole other ordeal. Since my coils arent getting power from oem power source at the distributor. Wireworx ran their power from the main relay i believe. Power to the distributor is left blank. Still not entirely sure not how its gona get done. Only researched alittle bit on it. Was actually gona talk to my tuner first about it at my retune session.
Precrimped small pin ecu pigtails from HAmotorsports were used. Why is it that you think soldering is more worst off than crimps. Im really curious. With my background my experience working with robotics, nearly a decade of industrial maintenance, and eight or nine certificates towards my education(two or three of those in electric equipment), ive learned, been told, and showed why soldering is preferred. Hell even tech support from equipment i work on recommends electrical repairs to be soldered. Not crimped.
ill have to remember that link for electrical hardware for the future. Theres a big chance ill be need to order an obd2b distributor end connector. For when i convert to hall effect cam sensor. Then removing the dizzy. Wiring into the cyp i believe. And get my voltages from distributor power. Which is gona be a whole other ordeal. Since my coils arent getting power from oem power source at the distributor. Wireworx ran their power from the main relay i believe. Power to the distributor is left blank. Still not entirely sure not how its gona get done. Only researched alittle bit on it. Was actually gona talk to my tuner first about it at my retune session.
Precrimped small pin ecu pigtails from HAmotorsports were used. Why is it that you think soldering is more worst off than crimps. Im really curious. With my background my experience working with robotics, nearly a decade of industrial maintenance, and eight or nine certificates towards my education(two or three of those in electric equipment), ive learned, been told, and showed why soldering is preferred. Hell even tech support from equipment i work on recommends electrical repairs to be soldered. Not crimped.
Wiggle those solder connections around a few times and they will eventually snap right at the joint. Solder is only used at pcb connections. Open up any oem harness and you wont find solder anywhere.
Those part numbers are for the big and small ecu terminals. Sumitomo.
I'm with Pepe - I've gone to almost exclusively using open barrel crimps. Open up a Honda wiring harness and show me where solder was used - almost nowhere. OEM junctions are done with open barrel crimps, and every pin termination is basically an open barrel crimp. Don't confuse crimps with butt connectors - there is a difference. For 18 AWG TXL, I find TE Connectivity PN 41974 works great, and is my go-to.
I wouldnt bug the tuner with wiring questions. More time you take up with that the less he’ll take tuning. Or ask after the tune is done and money is transferred lol.
Wiggle those solder connections around a few times and they will eventually snap right at the joint. Solder is only used at pcb connections. Open up any oem harness and you wont find solder anywhere.
Those part numbers are for the big and small ecu terminals. Sumitomo.
Wiggle those solder connections around a few times and they will eventually snap right at the joint. Solder is only used at pcb connections. Open up any oem harness and you wont find solder anywhere.
Those part numbers are for the big and small ecu terminals. Sumitomo.
In the forklift industry nearly every wiring electrical gremlin that i have and had to chase down, is from a failed joint connector. Same back when i was building and repairing machinery damage.
Tuner and i have a pretty decent relationship. **** he was the one who was trying to refer me to the 5-0 ig ite kit. Im gona go with the delaruz motorsport kit anyway. And i would talked with him after tuning of course about future plans like always lol. Unless i decide to do it prior. Besides last time i walked in to pick something up, he was asking which trigger set i went with. So all we be well
Pulled the charge piping. Cut some of it off to aligned better with the throttle body due to the victor x install. Will have to order a 45 degree coupler and itll be at a good angle. Took it into the tuner, to have it bead rolled, also with the compressor housing to have a bung welded to it. Decided to move my boost reference to the compressor. That way next time i have a vacuum leak, i wont be spiking all summer.
Tuner also is finishing up on my basemap. Says hell get it all done this week. BUT... dude definitely mentioned trigger setups again. Hes pointing me towards the honed development kit. Which reads really good. Just too new to find any results or input. Cant remember what he said, i was worried about the max rpm. If that was tested rpm or what. If ill be loosing resolution or what. He dis have to say the oem hall effect triggers are better quality than the basic threaded barrel style like on the t1 kits. Looks like they actually released a few days ago. I asked him to see if one of his contacts has anyone more input or information on the setup. Its very appealing, and mite jump on it after other things gets finished.
https://honeddevelopments.com/produc...ger-kit-basic/
Tuner also is finishing up on my basemap. Says hell get it all done this week. BUT... dude definitely mentioned trigger setups again. Hes pointing me towards the honed development kit. Which reads really good. Just too new to find any results or input. Cant remember what he said, i was worried about the max rpm. If that was tested rpm or what. If ill be loosing resolution or what. He dis have to say the oem hall effect triggers are better quality than the basic threaded barrel style like on the t1 kits. Looks like they actually released a few days ago. I asked him to see if one of his contacts has anyone more input or information on the setup. Its very appealing, and mite jump on it after other things gets finished.
https://honeddevelopments.com/produc...ger-kit-basic/
Yup, oem sensors, no work or changes needed to be made on the timing belt side. Only concerns are the max rpm and the 8 tooth trigger wheel. Pdf says to set it up at 109 degrees. Or something like that. I wonder if that makes up the difference with the other 4 to 16 missing teeth. That are used on other trigger wheels. Eventually im gona read and dig into it. There was a post about in on the link g4x forums. But i think it went nowhere towards what i was looking for
Yup, oem sensors, no work or changes needed to be made on the timing belt side. Only concerns are the max rpm and the 8 tooth trigger wheel. Pdf says to set it up at 109 degrees. Or something like that. I wonder if that makes up the difference with the other 4 to 16 missing teeth. That are used on other trigger wheels. Eventually im gona read and dig into it. There was a post about in on the link g4x forums. But i think it went nowhere towards what i was looking for
Another guy posted this in the EMS trigger thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine.../#post52781369
https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine.../#post52781369
Another guy posted this in the EMS trigger thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine.../#post52781369
https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine.../#post52781369
Update
Basemap has been loaded up. However, with all the **** that needs adjusted or inputted, it still isnt running. Engine wouldnt start with the basemap. Just a couple of backfires. So i try syncing the timing while cranking and using that route to figure out what the trigger offset is to time the engine. But no dice. And the battery died twice lol from cranking so much. Send the tuner a no start basemap. Viewed and saved a triggerscope while cranking, but when i opened it, it was just flat. So something got fubarred there. Finally two days later, the tuner emails me saying he needs a triggerscope. Also that the engine should still fire regardless. Likely the trigger arming thresholds are off. Also that he needs triggerscope to proceed forward. But now the battery is dead again🤷🏾♂️
Basemap has been loaded up. However, with all the **** that needs adjusted or inputted, it still isnt running. Engine wouldnt start with the basemap. Just a couple of backfires. So i try syncing the timing while cranking and using that route to figure out what the trigger offset is to time the engine. But no dice. And the battery died twice lol from cranking so much. Send the tuner a no start basemap. Viewed and saved a triggerscope while cranking, but when i opened it, it was just flat. So something got fubarred there. Finally two days later, the tuner emails me saying he needs a triggerscope. Also that the engine should still fire regardless. Likely the trigger arming thresholds are off. Also that he needs triggerscope to proceed forward. But now the battery is dead again🤷🏾♂️
Still getting my *** kick by setting up the new ecu. Switched the fuel main setup to modelled, from modlled-multi fuel. Copied the cranking fuel enrichment, post start and warm up tables from that of a 92-95 civic. Since my tables were pretty much blank. Dwell timing tables incresed in the 0-500 rpm cells again. Set base timing lock screen open. Then it fired right up, but was lethargic as all get out. Eventually died out. Tried again, started right up, lethargic, gave it some throttle, died out. Increase the entire fuel table by 20 percent. After that, it would even start
Last edited by ls joker; Jan 23, 2024 at 01:16 PM.
Try hitting up lavigne motorsports. I know they tuner boersmas car on link
https://lavignemotorsports.com/shop/...ApMejAHzoMpcYw
https://lavignemotorsports.com/shop/...ApMejAHzoMpcYw
The accel enrichment table between link and aem mite control different thing. On the g4x it control opening and closing events. It actually sounds like another place where tps corrections are made. Theres a **** ton of places where there are tps corrections. Between that and being able to change the most axis' for nearly every trim and corrections, ive already hit my limit. Already emailed the tuner to have him figure it out and work his magic on the dyno. Apparently he tunes alot of link ems products now. Ive also had him and the tech support guys from link pretty much say, on paper it should start. Theyve done everhthing but hook it up to their engine for simulation.
Theres a chance the lavigne guy is already on links forum. Reaching out to him will likely mean paying again for someone else to do a basemap. I feel like at this point its just easier to get the car to my link dealer. And let him do what he knows
Theres a chance the lavigne guy is already on links forum. Reaching out to him will likely mean paying again for someone else to do a basemap. I feel like at this point its just easier to get the car to my link dealer. And let him do what he knows
Received my honed trigger kit. Still need my cam angle sensors. Bought a bunch of black tefzel. Oem sensor connectors, and a 6pin deustch plug kit from cycleterminal.com. But that order of connectors are gona have to be cancelled. Due to him taking his sweet *** time. Literally received my order from austrailia that went to china first, and my order hasnt even been processed yet.
My plan was to leave the distributor plug untouched on the harness. Create a new sub harness for the cam angle sensors. Then pin the sub harness directly at the ecu. Leaving the harness and wires to and from the distributor in original shape.
My plan was to leave the distributor plug untouched on the harness. Create a new sub harness for the cam angle sensors. Then pin the sub harness directly at the ecu. Leaving the harness and wires to and from the distributor in original shape.
Last edited by ls joker; Feb 1, 2024 at 04:14 PM.
Idk... he could have some life stuff going on. Which is all good, as we all have our reasons. Me being the consumer, receiving my purchase from austraila(ordered within five minutes of each other), and it hasnt even been processed yet, it just rubbed me the wrong way. So i ordered again thru racespec. Not sure why i didnt go thru them like normal lol.
Gona order my new k series cam angle sensors next week. Decided on 2008 accord 2.4L sensors. Because i like that the sensors point down and not outwards. Looks cleaner in my opinion.
Will post up some basic pics of honeds product tomorrow
Gona order my new k series cam angle sensors next week. Decided on 2008 accord 2.4L sensors. Because i like that the sensors point down and not outwards. Looks cleaner in my opinion.
Will post up some basic pics of honeds product tomorrow
Word.
Im excited to see if this ****** fires right up, every time. Alittle simplicity on triggers and type. Then boom, the "communication" is better due to sine wave is difference. Crazy.
Its going to the tuners anyway. I just know the dizzy will be a weak point, at some point. So im getting the jump on it. While reaping the benefits of hall effect triggers now. Also will be switching to a CAN base wideband. Apparently the old school aem wideband will work being wired to the analog input. But theres too great of chances on inconsistancies. And always having to adjust the tables and chase AFRs is not something i want to do. So im planning on ordering the aem x series wideband.
Still need to order some 888r's but thatll be close to april.
Im excited to see if this ****** fires right up, every time. Alittle simplicity on triggers and type. Then boom, the "communication" is better due to sine wave is difference. Crazy.
Its going to the tuners anyway. I just know the dizzy will be a weak point, at some point. So im getting the jump on it. While reaping the benefits of hall effect triggers now. Also will be switching to a CAN base wideband. Apparently the old school aem wideband will work being wired to the analog input. But theres too great of chances on inconsistancies. And always having to adjust the tables and chase AFRs is not something i want to do. So im planning on ordering the aem x series wideband.
Still need to order some 888r's but thatll be close to april.
You and me both. Im gona make my sub harness while im waiting on my sensors. Im kinda hopeful as ive already seen a few issues with the oem distributor. And i feel like the new ecu is exploiting them. The "noise" alone is and issue, amongs others









